Warranty Engine Replacement - No Oil Pressure

[kairojya]

How many days did it take?

I would make them fix that issue with the hood. Clearly that was damage they did when it was off. When I take my car to the dealer on the 7th I will tape the entire front end to try and prevent any damage.

Congrats on getting your car back. Have fun!

31 days. I assume you're talking about the stripe damage? They put up no fight when I pointed out the stripe, and they told me they would order new stripe(s) right away. I'll bring the car back in (hurray!) and their body shop will "fix" it.

Thanks!

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[montreal ponies]

Kyle, the link to your video doesn't work. Unless it's something on my side.

 

[kairojya]

I'm always disappointed when someone else works on my car, that's why it never happens. Well I would of course if it was expensive warranty like your case of course.

Question for you. I read again the conditions on which your OPG went out and it was similar to mine. I drove it from cold for about 10-15 minutes, not completely sure about the time but I did wait for the indash display to say oil temp was normal. Then I hit a couple hard pulls then did the hard first through 4th acceleration and that when the pump went out. Now I'm thinking the oil wasn't really up to temp which I would consider 180 ish and above. The reason I say this is that on my new guild I installed a dedicated oil temp sensor and I've noticed that my in dash dummy gauge shows normal temp fairly quickly with 10 miles or so and my new gauge has barely moved off the bottom 120 mark. I'm wondering if your gauge in dash is also a dummy gauge not really displaying correct temps. I started a new thread here if you want understand more of what I'm talking about. Maybe your oil wasn't really up to temp yet.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1572294#post1572294

That's interesting! I'm not familiar with the gauges on other Mustang models though. I don't personally use/like the oil temp gauge in the center of the dash on my GT350, the parallax from how the gauge is flat mounted makes it annoying to read for me, likely worsened because I'm short and sit closer to the steering wheel. While I'm driving I always leave my central display (between tach and speedo) on the detail screen shown below. I assume these values are from the ECU and the ECU is getting accurate values from the various sensors.

Driving my car for 3 trips so far since yesterday, I'm a bit nervous watching my oil pressure gauge (the one in the center of the dash), especially seeing it go up to 125~ PSI under light acceleration while the oil is still cold. I guess I shouldn't worry, since my last failure was sudden with no signs that it was coming.

 

[kairojya]

Kyle, the link to your video doesn't work. Unless it's something on my side.

Sorry, it's just a screenshot from the video! I just wanted to quickly show the bird poop, though it seems a bit silly to go through all this effort over 1 bird poop on my car :doh:

 

[kairojya]

Kyle, overall I would be way more pissed than you seem to be. I'm not OCD, but I'm close.....maybe an 8 on the anal scale. I didn't know they left your car out in the blazing heat, or I would have offered to let you borrow my cover. After taking an eternity to install the engine after it arrived at the dealer, you'd think they had plenty of time to take care of all the slop incurred with an engine swap. The fact that they didn't ship a complete motor is something I would have a real hard time swallowing. I would check the oil filter for proper torque, even though it was supposedly shipped with a full crankcase. At this point, I wouldn't take anything for granted. What a nightmare. I hope you make it to Cars and Coffee on Saturday.

I plan to check the torque sometime very soon. I wish had the means to take better care of it, or towed it to my home so I could garage it while they wait for an engine ... oh well. I daily drive the car anyway and it sits outside during weekdays, and now that I've had the engine replaced I care a lot less about the car being perfect.

Supposedly everyone who gets an engine replacement will have the same thing, the original intake manifold will be used and the original accessories (unless either of these components were damaged of course).

Email me about Cars & Coffee! I'll go if my engine doesn't blow up again 12 hours before hand like last time :lol::lol::lol:

 

[kairojya]

Sorry [MENTION=24548]kairojya[/MENTION], that is unacceptable condition to return the car back to you. No matter how long they had it, but especially how long they had yours to do the install and clean up. Now you have to waste more time figuring out bringing it back in for paint correction and stripe repair. :frusty:

This is another one of my worries. After they finally sort out whether my car gets an engine or not.......what condition it will be returned to me in.

Yea, this is what I've been stressing over the whole time they had the car. The only comfort I had was thinking "what if I was a new Ford GT owner, and had to deal with this?" LOL. My only real option was to order a new engine myself and swap it myself or find a reputable shop to do the work. Idk if rebuilding my original engine was even an option, if it were I guess I could've done that, but still I'm leaving a lot of things in other people's hands.

 

[kairojya]

I know it's not the same motor, but my 2017 crate motor was much like your in that it was the long block less harness, upper intake, throttle body, coils and such. I did have an oil filter and didn't come with oil. When I opened it up to do the OPG and timing gear the timing chain and that entire side was dry, but the heads did have a slight trace of oil in some places. When I called Ford Racing they said the engine had to be primed before startup. I used a garden sprayer in the oil pressure sensor inlet to prime the motor and watch oil come out the heads. I'm surprised the GT350 came wilts oil.

My service advisor told me it came full of oil, I didn't get to ask the tech so I'm just going off what the advisor said. I think it's likely it didn't come with oil, hence the spill stains everywhere from when the tech likely filled it. Who knows :shrug:

 

[Roh92cp]

I did a little reasearch for you and it seems Ford parts or anyone else doesn't list an oil temp sensor or even the switch or plug, and every other sensor was listed for the 5.2L. My bet is there is no actual sensor and the gauge displays an estimated temp using the ECT and cyl head temps like the coyote.

 

[kairojya]

I did a little reasearch for you and it seems Ford parts or anyone else doesn't list an oil temp sensor or even the switch or plug, and every other sensor was listed for the 5.2L. My bet is there is no actual sensor and the gauge displays an estimated temp using the ECT and cyl head temps like the coyote.

Wow ... that's interesting. I was going to say that maybe an aftermarket company can make replacement oil cooler lines (regarding the recall) and incorporate temp sensors for the oil going to/from the cooler so we can have accurate temperatures. If what you're saying is true, both the "gauge detail" screen in the instrument cluster and the dedicated oil temperature gauge are just approximations. I guess oil pressure is the most important data point for an engine, and oil temp isn't too important relatively (for street driving that is)?

 

[Roh92cp]

Wow ... that's interesting. I was going to say that maybe an aftermarket company can make replacement oil cooler lines (regarding the recall) and incorporate temp sensors for the oil going to/from the cooler so we can have accurate temperatures. If what you're saying is true, both the "gauge detail" screen in the instrument cluster and the dedicated oil temperature gauge are just approximations. I guess oil pressure is the most important data point for an engine, and oil temp isn't too important relatively (for street driving that is)?

Oil pressure is important, But I would dare say that if your oil temp isn't up to a true warm temp 180 ish when you go full throttle then you risk bearing wear or worse. I think I have proved with installing a true oil temp gauge that the oil temps displayed in our cars is showing oil eronious oil temps. If it gets oil temps from the ECT head sensors we know these come up to temp way faster than the oil and that's what my test with has shown.

 

[kairojya]

Oil pressure is important, But I would dare say that if your oil temp isn't up to a true warm temp 180 ish when you go full throttle then you risk bearing wear or worse. I think I have proved with installing a true oil temp gauge that the oil temps displayed in our cars is showing oil eronious oil temps. If it gets oil temps from the ECT head sensors we know these come up to temp way faster than the oil and that's what my test with has shown.

I'm iffy on adding my own oil temp sensor. Where did you add yours? I realize it may not be applicable but from what I know the Coyote and Voodoo share oil pumps so maybe they share oil filter housings as well (isn't this typically where oil pressure sensors go?). I wonder if I add a sensor and have another engine/oil problem in the future if Ford will give me shit about it. I don't want to have to fight them on anything drive train related.... I wish I could pay them to install an upgraded (billet) OPG and still keep my warranty.

As a safety measure, from now on I'm going to consider my normal commute (15-25 minutes) under warm up cycle and not go WOT. I'll only go WOT on longer leisure drives.

In your opinion what do you think caused my oil pump to fail? Is it high pressure from accelerating while the oil isn't up to temp? Or is it just related to vibration?

 

[Zitrosounds]

Kyle,

I think your motor was pulled from up top and that's why your hood has damage. They probably damaged it on removal/install or storage. My tech said the Ford instructions have the motor being pulled from up top. I initially asked him about an alignment check but he said it would not be required since it is not coming out from the bottom.

 

[kairojya]

Kyle,

I think your motor was pulled from up top and that's why your hood has damage. They probably damaged it on removal/install or storage. My tech said the Ford instructions have the motor being pulled from up top. I initially asked him about an alignment check but he said it would not be required since it is not coming out from the bottom.

Interesting ... I was told they do a subframe drop but this came from my advisor before my new engine even came in. My service advisor remarked about the hood stripe damage saying "idk how they did that, they removed your hood completely". Thinking about it now, if they removed my hood, then they probably did pull the engine from the top. I actually think that may be better, presumably that means they didn't touch a lot of the subframe fasteners? Did they pull your trans out with the engine? I'm not sure if there's much room to get all around the bellhousing to undo all those fasteners.

 

[Zitrosounds]

Interesting ... I was told they do a subframe drop but this came from my advisor before my new engine even came in. My service advisor remarked about the hood stripe damage saying "idk how they did that, they removed your hood completely". Thinking about it now, if they removed my hood, then they probably did pull the engine from the top. I actually think that may be better, presumably that means they didn't touch a lot of the subframe fasteners? Did they pull your trans out with the engine? I'm not sure if there's much room to get all around the bellhousing to undo all those fasteners.

My tech said that there is to much extra work due to the differences in the sub frame and additional components. Initially I was told the sub frame would be dropped. Will let you know this afternoon. Pretty certain if they removed your hood it came out from the top.

 

[TxOilMoney]

I was thinking the same thing as Zitro when I saw your hood/stripe damage. How else could that happen?

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