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Audio Upgrade issues Help

StealthStang

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Hi Guys

Firstly sorry for my first post being a call for help but im not sure whats going wrong with my newly upgraded setup.
Ive been reading this forum for a few weeks as research before i upgraded my 2016 premium audio system (shaker with no sub, sync2) on my ecoboost but still ran into some problems.

I have the following hardware in :
Kicker KX800.5 amp
Audison Bit Ten Processor (got this to remove stock processing and get a flatter signal)
Kicker KS 6.5 Coax Rear
Rainbow SL-C6.3 3-way fronts with passive crossvers
Custom wooden speaker baffles and STP sound deadening in the doors

With the help of a friend who is a custom installer we used this guide for wiring.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...peakers-subwoofer-install-done-heres-how.html

Problems:
-The fronts are really peaky, midbass and bass are inconsistent even though we are running through the Audison processor. Feels Almost as if the frequency is chopped off sometimes
-The rear PDC beeps & Phone is playing through the centre speaker, nothing was changed there, its still connected to the stock amp. I could swear PDC used to play from the rears.
-General lack of bass compared to stock even though we are running a decent amp and speakers with new baffles and deadening that worked well on other cars
-The audio from the centre speaker is really overpowering and making the front sound even more peaky.

I can get you more detailed info regarding the exact wiring if you let me know what i should ask my installer friend, but any ideas what's the problem here ?
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StealthStang

StealthStang

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I doubt you'll get anyone to hazard a guess without knowing the wiring.
We tried a few ways, so i can't remember which way its currently is but im going to find out just now.

Though can anybody tell me which speakers the PDC is supposed to play through ? Is it rear + centre ? or Rear only or centre only ?
 
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StealthStang

StealthStang

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Currently we are using the rear channels to go through the main channel (effectively front) of the Audison sound processor. The rear channel is going to the front of the sound processor. Goes to the KX via RCA from the processor.
The processor is Summing the front midbass channel with the rear, also tried tried summing the front mids plus tweeter that was worse.

The problem with going front to front and rear to rear on the processor was that the front speakers then sounded completely wrong (low mids and bass), front signal didnt seem full range, and it was made worse by the 3-way passive cross that came with the new front speakers.
Swapping to rears helped that a lot, but theres still a lot low frequency missing.

Centre speaker was left untouched, so im not sure why that seems like its playing louder and is playing the PDC beeps.
 

Mid_life_crisis

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The center channel obviously comes from the factory amp.
Are you picking up the front and rear before or after the factory amp?
The center sounding too loud is as simple as you need to increase the gain/volume of the output of the Audison front channels until the volume matches the center channel.
The sounds that used to come from the back sounding like they come from the front is obvious. You used the rear signal to feed the front channel, what did you expect to happen?
I suspect that the backup chimes are not really suddenly coming from the center channel. Either they're really coming from the front left/right, or they've always come from the center. My car doesn't have them and I can't remember how they behave in my wife's.
 

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StealthStang

StealthStang

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The center channel obviously comes from the factory amp.
Are you picking up the front and rear before or after the factory amp?
After the factory amp.

The center sounding too loud is as simple as you need to increase the gain/volume of the output of the Audison front channels until the volume matches the center channel.
That could be the case, but im sure its playing louder than it was before, its starting to distort at the volumes it never used to before

The sounds that used to come from the back sounding like they come from the front is obvious. You used the rear signal to feed the front channel, what did you expect to happen?
I suspect that the backup chimes are not really suddenly coming from the center channel. Either they're really coming from the front left/right, or they've always come from the center. My car doesn't have them and I can't remember how they behave in my wife's.
I hear you, but the sounds are definitely coming from the centre and not the fronts. The door speakers are not playing those beep sounds. Maybe it was like that stock but i dont think so, i will have to revert to stock to see if that was the case.
 

rambunctious

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Also note that since you have changed the output gain and frequency response from stock, you will want to disable the ANC/sound enhancement by disconnecting the microphone. This change in "calibration" will result in possibly adding low frequency drone in the car which was meant to exactly cancel engine order drone with it's original calibration.



Ramb
 
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StealthStang

StealthStang

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Also note that since you have changed the output gain and frequency response from stock, you will want to disable the ANC/sound enhancement by disconnecting the microphone. This change in "calibration" will result in possibly adding low frequency drone in the car which was meant to exactly cancel engine order drone with it's original calibration.



Ramb
Thats the mic in the rear of the cabin right ?

Im assuming theres one in the front for the phone bluetooth stuff.
 

rambunctious

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yes.

OEMradio can also program the anc out of your radio, as well as give you a flat, line level signal so you may not need your processor. Just another option.

Ramb
 

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Feels Almost as if the frequency is chopped off sometimes
any chance you have polarity wrong with any of the channels. the summing may be cancelling some stereo signal, or summing the stereo difference between left and right......??

just a thought
 

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Mid_life_crisis

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yes.

OEMradio can also program the anc out of your radio, as well as give you a flat, line level signal so you may not need your processor. Just another option.

Ramb
I thought of this but, seeing as he's in South Africa, he might want to wait a bit and order one of OEM's programmers.
 
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StealthStang

StealthStang

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That would have been a nice option but due to location its not something i cant do.

I don't think theres an issue with polarity, unless its being reversed by the hardware. I think the problem is a combination between the processors summing of the front or rear channels and then the passive crossover thats in the new 3-ways.

Will investigate more tomorrow.
 

Mid_life_crisis

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...
Are you picking up the front and rear before or after the factory amp?
...
After the factory amp.
...
I would try picking them up before the factory amp. That's before the amp's internal crossover splits the signal between mid/tweeter and the bass driver. If you're lucky, the amp might be where the subsonic filter is applied to the bass as well. This way you are dealing with four channels that are as close to full range as you can get without modding the H/U. Keep in mind that if you want the center channel, you need to leave them connected to the amp and tap in in parallel.
 

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I have to agree with midlife.Disconnect the factory amp and pull the low level feed from there. I also think you need a audio bit one....not the bit ten.
 
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StealthStang

StealthStang

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I have to agree with midlife.Disconnect the factory amp and pull the low level feed from there. I also think you need a audio bit one....not the bit ten.
Why bit one instead of bit ten ? The car only has 4 channels ? And im running the centre speaker off the factory amp.

My front speakers are 3-way split with a passive crossover and the rear deck speakers are co-axials. So im only using 4 channel which the bit ten D supports already ?
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