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Aftermarket Driveshaft Failures

jvm051

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So if the plan is to run 17in bias ply tires for the strip, on a manual tranny, would it be better to stick with the factory driveshaft? I'm only running bolt ons. My plan was to order a Dynotech driveshaft with a BMR driveshaft loop.

Suspension work consists of Steeda IRS bushings and alignment dowels, Steeda diff bushings, FRPP springs, UPR vertical links, Steeda IRS subframe braces, BMR sway bars and BMR front chassis brace. FRPP Halfshafts to be added before next visit to the track.
 

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Thanks bro! I am buying jmeo's carbon fiber DSS. The price was too go to pass up. If that one breaks then I will go with PST. Maybe get one of their steel shafts lol.
No problem! Save the manuals!:cheers: i hope it works out for you, but if it doesnt that pst you wont be disappointed. I switched to pst in my sti. I kept breaking dss in my 6466 30+ psi equipped 07 sti. I always ran pst in my mustangs. Ill be sticking with them.
 

jvm051

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No problem! Save the manuals!:cheers: i hope it works out for you, but if it doesnt that pst you wont be disappointed. I switched to pst in my sti. I kept breaking dss in my 6466 30+ psi equipped 07 sti. I always ran pst in my mustangs. Ill be sticking with them.
Two questions, what makes the PST ones different from the others (DSS, Shadtmasters, Dynotech) ? And where do you measure from to get the info that PST needs to make the driveshaft?
 

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Two questions, what makes the PST ones different from the others (DSS, Shadtmasters, Dynotech) ? And where do you measure from to get the info that PST needs to make the driveshaft?
I cant speak for dynotech but i know that pst makes its driveshafts custom based on your suspension settings which is ideal because then its made to work at the angle/length your shaft on your car is specifically needing. Suspension settings affect those things. Instead of a one size fits all its which is an inferior approach.
http://pstds.com/drive-shafts-101/
 

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Wow, Shaftmasters emailed me the morning and they are going to take care of it. I'm still got to try out the carbon fiber and keep this one as a back up.
 

BMR Tech

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Shaftmasters stands behind their products. That is why I recommend them to so many people.

Unfortunately, things like this happen when racing. Using a company that stands behind their product, even when you say you are racing a high powered manual trans car at the track, is worth a lot.
 
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evo8904

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Shaftmasters stands behind their products. That is why I recommend them to so many people.

Unfortunately, things like this happen when racing. Using a company that stands behind their product, even when you say you are racing a high powered manual trans car at the track, is worth a lot.
Yeah, I didn't hide the fact that I was at the track and launched it with drag radials. They even emailed me before I woke up this morning lol. Awesome customer service.
 

jvm051

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Shaftmasters stands behind their products. That is why I recommend them to so many people.

Unfortunately, things like this happen when racing. Using a company that stands behind their product, even when you say you are racing a high powered manual trans car at the track, is worth a lot.
Kelly, in your opinion are those of us with just bolt on cars, with bias ply slicks, should we still expect to break an aftermarket driveshaft or the factory one if we have a manual transmission? Short of switching to a auto, what can be done to prevent this if we have already done some suspension work, such as IRS and differential bushings?
 

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Kelly, in your opinion are those of us with just bolt on cars, with bias ply slicks, should we still expect to break an aftermarket driveshaft or the factory one if we have a manual transmission? Short of switching to a auto, what can be done to prevent this if we have already done some suspension work, such as IRS and differential bushings?
Preloading your drivetrain before you let it rip. It cuts down the shock loading transfer
 

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mustang_guy

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More in depth on this process please.
Shortly after staging when you bring your revs up. Let the clutch out just enough that the car edges forward a barely. Typically you can feel a tug from the diff.. That will effectively take all the slack out of the drivetrain and greatly reduce the shock that a dump causes
 

mm2015

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More in depth on this process please.
If I'm correct, it's when you burp it at the start line. Like slight revs, let off the brakes for a split second (to give you that 'jump'). Rev up to your launch revs, and go.

You can see it a lot in racing clips.
 

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Just curious if anyone here has broken the stock driveshaft yet?
 

gsxr1300

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Dan broke his last fall.
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