that amp requires 8ga power and ground wires, so no, you cannot use the stock amp wiresI ordered one of these JL Hx300/1 amps aswell. I'm a little confused as I've only ever installed regular full size amps. Will I need to run a full size power wire from the battery, or could I just tap power from say the existing amp. The wires coming from the JL amp don't look to be that big.
I'd agree... use whatever JL recommends for power & ground.that amp requires 8ga power and ground wires, so no, you cannot use the stock amp wires
So, I'd just like to know for sure whether or not the stock sub amp is powerful enough to run a higher quality subwoofer. On one hand, the OP of this thread says it is but the guy in that other thread claims it wasn't. Not sure to pull the trigger, buy the sub, and try it myself or not!I changed the factory sub with a Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" 2-Ohm 300W shallow mount but the factory amp was not enough for the aftermarket sub.
I scrapped that idea and bought a Fosgate PBR 300x2 amp, two P1S2-8's and a Ground Shaker box. Couldn't go any bigger because of the smaller trunk space in the vert.
After hearing how good it sounds now I'm going to have a custom box made that will fit back in the space under the package tray as to get more of my trunk space back.
Yes, the stock amp is enough to power the sub. Whether it's enough to power an aftermarket driver to realize its full potential or to satisfy your expectation is another matter. You need to consider all of the variables to answer that. Or just cobble it together and hope you get lucky. ;)I have a GTPP with the 401a package (Shaker Pro w/ sub in trunk) and I'd really like to upgrade the subwoofer. I'd prefer not to get into changing amps and all that so a drop-in that uses the stock amp and enclosure is perfect. I was going to go with the RF P3SD2-8 as recommended by the OP but while I was doing a bit more research, I found this post in the "Stereo Information" thread:
So, I'd just like to know for sure whether or not the stock sub amp is powerful enough to run a higher quality subwoofer. On one hand, the OP of this thread says it is but the guy in that other thread claims it wasn't. Not sure to pull the trigger, buy the sub, and try it myself or not!
I posted this in the general forum, but it makes more sense here.
I have the 12 speaker shaker with the sub.
Decided the sub needed some help without getting crazy. Did a similar mod on my ST.
So,
Easy install, 3 torx screws at the bottom removes the faceplate, 3 more bolts and the sub is free.
Unplug harness, remove sub.
Remove the grill and unscrew the speaker.
There is one screw in the back holding the magnet. Remove that and the sub falls out.
It's a dual voice coil, so 4 wires.
Plug that hole on that back. I used that foamy 3m tape on both sides.
Purchase:
Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD2-8
And RF P3S 8" grill
Amazon has both for around $110.
Drop that baby in, button it up and enjoy.
I had a request about the center speaker, so I figured I'd throw in the pic.
Its a Polk DB351, mounted from below the panel for tweeter clearance
Also a tweeter request, Kicker KTS25, removed the pillar, dremeled the stock mount and installed from the front. be SURE to use the supplied crossovers.
Did you sell the other center speaker ? Also is the tweeter you bought a 1" tweeter ?
The RF handles 300 peak, but the factory amp doesn't put out anything near that.pmed to buy the polk 3.5, [MENTION=22912]Chef jpd[/MENTION] what's the maximum rms the factory amp can handle?
might not buy the same punch 8" 2ohm sub, any alternatives?