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2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

accel

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There is a rubber seal around the top. When I open the hood it seem to be bent over and sort of slowly springs back, so it must be up against something. I do have my hood stop almost as low as it goes though, so that might help.

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Hm.. so why everyone reports of temperatures being higher then?

And the next quote is from motoiq:

The factory airbox is truly a “Cold Air Intake” since all the air that gets ingested by the engine comes from the “cold” outside air via the front grille, meanwhile the GT350’s “Hot Air Intake” ends up pulling in a lot of hot engine bay air from the poor sealing to the hood.[/QUOTE]
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thelostotter

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Hm.. so why everyone reports of temperatures being higher then?

And the next quote is from motoiq:

The factory airbox is truly a “Cold Air Intake” since all the air that gets ingested by the engine comes from the “cold” outside air via the front grille, meanwhile the GT350’s “Hot Air Intake” ends up pulling in a lot of hot engine bay air from the poor sealing to the hood.
[/QUOTE]

It’s only going to pull hot air from leaks in the seal with the hood when you are parked are driving slow. Intake air temps with the PP2 are definitely hotter when you are moving slowly or stuck in traffic. I’ve seen it get to 150+F here in Phoenix during the summer after sitting in a parking lot. But when you are moving the temps drop back down to 4-5 degrees above ambient. When I took my bumper off to do a grille delete I installed the Velossa Tech big mouth at the same time and now my IAT is 2-3 degrees above ambient. It still gets hot when I’m not moving but that doesn’t matter to me.
 

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Went with a different grille design to help with IAT's. I do a lot of Running at Thunderhill which is ridiculously hot but haven't had an issue yet.
The functioning hood vents help to move all the excess pressure (less hood wobble).
20190217_072718.jpg
 

Grimmer

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It’s only going to pull hot air from leaks in the seal with the hood when you are parked are driving slow. Intake air temps with the PP2 are definitely hotter when you are moving slowly or stuck in traffic. I’ve seen it get to 150+F here in Phoenix during the summer after sitting in a parking lot. But when you are moving the temps drop back down to 4-5 degrees above ambient. When I took my bumper off to do a grille delete I installed the Velossa Tech big mouth at the same time and now my IAT is 2-3 degrees above ambient. It still gets hot when I’m not moving but that doesn’t matter to me.
I've had the PP2 installed for about 15K miles now. There are plenty of leaks between the airbox and the hood. I have attached some photos of the airbox and the underside of the hood. (I was in a hurry and the pics are not the greatest...) But it is easy to see that there are many gaps. I didn't add pointers and text to the photos, but generally they show contact and rubbing points, which are usually accompanied by dust settling and rubber gaps on either side of the contact. It would seem that the GT350 hood is quite a bit different than the GT hood.

Also, I was surprised at how narrow the snorkel is from the bottom of the airbox to the grill.

LeftCorner_Closeup_Reduced.jpg
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Underhood_Reduced.jpg
 
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accel

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I've had the PP2 installed for about 15K miles now. There are plenty of leaks between the airbox and the hood. I have attached some photos of the airbox and the underside of the hood. (I was in a hurry and the pics are not the greatest...) But it is easy to see that there are many gaps. I didn't add pointers and text to the photos, but generally they show contact and rubbing points, which are usually accompanied by dust settling and rubber gaps on either side of the contact. It would seem that the GT350 hood is quite a bit different than the GT hood.

Also, I was surprised at how narrow the snorkel is from the bottom of the airbox to the grill.

LeftCorner_Closeup_Reduced.jpg
FrontCloseUp_Reduced.jpg
CornerCloseUp_Reduced.jpg
SideView1_Reduced.jpg
Overview_Reduced.jpg
Underhood_Reduced.jpg
If I pulled the trigger on pp2 I would think of covering it with something on top.

Just do not like it the way it is.

Also, from imprinting on the hood it seems like hood vent does not overlap with the aitbox. It it true or I misinterpret the image?
 

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Meatball

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If I pulled the trigger on pp2 I would think of covering it with something on top.

Just do not like it the way it is.

Also, from imprinting on the hood it seems like hood vent does not overlap with the aitbox. It it true or I misinterpret the image?
That’s definitely not true. It’s dark out now and I put a small light in the air box and closed the hood. It’s clear that the drivers side vent almost entirely overlaps with the airbox. This makes sense because as mentioned above if you put your hand over the vent after driving it’s cool, whereas the other vent is venting hot air. It’s nice that the engine can in part breathe through that “nostril” with the GT350 airbox.

Again, it’s a non-issue. Your choice involves a trade off between an altered powertrain warranty and required premium gas vs an engine freed of its compromised stock tune (necessary for varying “87” gas quality worldwide under 11:1 compression) with a thicker torque curve and Camaro SS power (and similar in feel to a 2018GT). I agree with something Lion said earlier - ford may have designed the Gen2 Coyote with more power and a higher redline in mind (that’s why it has Boss 302 equivalent components, mostly, but stock has the same redline as the Gen1), delivered by the power packs.
 

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If I pulled the trigger on pp2 I would think of covering it with something on top.

Just do not like it the way it is.

Also, from imprinting on the hood it seems like hood vent does not overlap with the aitbox. It it true or I misinterpret the image?
It is just a bad photo. There is actually paint transfer on the front lip of the airbox gasket. The front of the airbox goes past the insulator pad and touches the paint at the front of the hood.

The IAT is a non-issue for me as well, although it was a surprise at first that the "CAI" airbox wasn't really a CAI.

I agree with Meatball... It comes down to a choice between altered warranty, the requirement for 91 octane fuel and the drivability improvements and power increase. If you are willing to accept the former, then the latter is worth the price.
 

SiRCaSTK

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I'm getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on a PP2. I will probably test the water intrusion myself this weekend to see how I feel about it. Most people here don't have any issues, and it's a Ford performance product, so I guess I'm not too worried about it.

However, I do have one question: I have heard about tune revisions...if I order a PP2 kit, how do I know that I have the most up to date tune?
 

Grimmer

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I'm getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on a PP2. I will probably test the water intrusion myself this weekend to see how I feel about it. Most people here don't have any issues, and it's a Ford performance product, so I guess I'm not too worried about it.

However, I do have one question: I have heard about tune revisions...if I order a PP2 kit, how do I know that I have the most up to date tune?
The kit does not contain the tune, but instructions to register and download the tune. You will get the newest tune from FRPP when you download it.
 

white15gt

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I'm getting pretty close to pulling the trigger on a PP2. I will probably test the water intrusion myself this weekend to see how I feel about it. Most people here don't have any issues, and it's a Ford performance product, so I guess I'm not too worried about it.

However, I do have one question: I have heard about tune revisions...if I order a PP2 kit, how do I know that I have the most up to date tune?
There has only been one revision, and it's been well over a year ago at this point. When you download the calibration you are getting the most recent file.
 

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racingandfishing

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Several things keep me from getting pp2:

- risk of undesired nls. I might like it, but if not - i should be able to disable it.

- air filter against hood clearance and heat extractor - the thing looks like afterthought. I believe they should provide some airbox cover that will prevent underhood heat from getting in, as well as let heat extractor work as before.

The last one could be fixed by covering air filter with some heat insulation material one could find at internet.
Couldn't agree more...spoke to Ford Performance last week and they said they have no intent of allowing the NLS to be disabled.

The CAI for the 2018's from Roush and what looks to be the same one used for the 2018 Supercharger kit has an enclosed filter box. Wondering if it is backwards compatible with my 2015 and if it can be used with the PP2.

(EDIT) Chatted with Ford Performance and they said the 2018 CAI is not compatible with PP2.

https://www.roushperformance.com/pa...es-category/2018-mustang-v8-cold-air-kit.html
2018 airbox.jpg
underthehood-626x418.jpg
 

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I'm all over this, thanks for the tip. The steed one is on sale for $64 and the Barton is $129 (haven't shopped around yet). Any chance you've tried both? What is the benefit of the Barton over the Steeda? Do you get any extra noise/vibrations with the extra solid nature of the Barton?

The Steeda still incorporates a poly core with a little give. Maybe even that much give is still too much...?
I had the Barton in my '14, (Ford Racing...made by Barton) can't speak for the Steeda but really liked the feel of the Barton...very positive. you know you're in. there was some info that in '17, Ford actually went to a Steeda design. there was a pic shown with Ford part # on the poly bushing. Ford has no comment.
my '17 does feel a lot more engaged than my '14 did? not like the Barton but better so maybe, they did change from the big old sloppy rubber bushing!
probably will get a Barton for the feel. nvh? hardly any major increase. there's a bit but the mount is a machined clamp. there's always trade offs with performance parts. worth it in my opinion. dman
 

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Couldn't agree more...spoke to Ford Performance last week and they said they have no intent of allowing the NLS to be disabled.

The CAI for the 2018's from Roush and what looks to be the same one used for the 2018 Supercharger kit has an enclosed filter box. Wondering if it is backwards compatible with my 2015 and if it can be used with the PP2.

(EDIT) Chatted with Ford Performance and they said the 2018 CAI is not compatible with PP2.

https://www.roushperformance.com/pa...es-category/2018-mustang-v8-cold-air-kit.html
2018 airbox.jpg
underthehood-626x418.jpg
sometimes, I think Ford Performance pays people not to think...history would prove me right. however, as SVT once told me, it's the "Bean Counters" that they have to deal with...dman
 

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I had the Barton in my '14, (Ford Racing...made by Barton) can't speak for the Steeda but really liked the feel of the Barton...very positive. you know you're in. there was some info that in '17, Ford actually went to a Steeda design. there was a pic shown with Ford part # on the poly bushing. Ford has no comment.
my '17 does feel a lot more engaged than my '14 did? not like the Barton but better so maybe, they did change from the big old sloppy rubber bushing!
probably will get a Barton for the feel. nvh? hardly any major increase. there's a bit but the mount is a machined clamp. there's always trade offs with performance parts. worth it in my opinion. dman
I've been running the Steeda for a about a week. There was a significant increase in the NVH. Droning and loud especially around 3,000. After 10 minutes in the car I just wanted to park and get out. Tried adding a foam rubber buffer between the mount and the chassis. That knocked down about 60-75% of the new NVH but was still enough to notice over the loud stereo. Switched back to stock last night... NVH went right back to normal.

There is a company that makes a polyurethane insert for the stock bracket. One of those is inbound, but if it isn't harder than stock and still much softer than Steeda, I won't bother to install it and just stick with stock.

Sorry, not much to do with the power packs. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...
 

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I've been running the Steeda for a about a week. There was a significant increase in the NVH. Droning and loud especially around 3,000. After 10 minutes in the car I just wanted to park and get out. Tried adding a foam rubber buffer between the mount and the chassis. That knocked down about 60-75% of the new NVH but was still enough to notice over the loud stereo. Switched back to stock last night... NVH went right back to normal.

There is a company that makes a polyurethane insert for the stock bracket. One of those is inbound, but if it isn't harder than stock and still much softer than Steeda, I won't bother to install it and just stick with stock.

Sorry, not much to do with the power packs. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming...
yikes! doesn't sound positive. notice any improvement in shifts? only time I noticed NVH was in neutral sitting still. it was a '14 and I sound proofed the console area...
Barton had rubber pad between bracket top and sheet metal mounting.
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