Zeck Ford Itasca, TX

[The Rooster]

No need to overthink this one.... I wouldn't worry one bit about how long its been sitting. Warranty starts when its purchased. If its been inside the tires will be fine too.
Yellow isn't for everyone which didn't help with the sale. Poor marketing would be more to blame.
All that said, for the right money I think it's a great find.

Sponsored

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

It would be a good candidate for preservation, then pull it out in 20 years and sell it at barrett-jackson.

 

[br_an]

Someone go buy this quickly, before I get tempted to do so

 

[The Rooster]

It would be a good candidate for preservation, then pull it out in 20 years and sell it a barrett-jackson.

Im going to say that thats the wrong approach to this car. This one needs to be driven. Its not special enough to be stuck in a glass case. This is a great opportunity for someone to have full warranty and day one driving history for the price of a used car.

 

[PP0001]

It all depends on the price I suppose but the 19+ cars have the engine that doesn't wolf down oil plus the improved chassis setup, coolers, etc. If the price were similar between this car "new" and a <20,000 mile 19 with service history I would go with the 19 all day long.

Sitting unused generally harms a car more than properly maintained usage. Indoors or not does not change the fact that leaving it for months without starting it and getting it fully warm is going to lead to increased wear on the engine in particular each time it is started due to oil draining off components such as cams. About the worst treatment possible for an engine is to be started once every 6 months for a short period of time (such as moving it in a showroom).

I would also recommend a complete new set of tires since the originals are 5 years old plus have been sitting. If it has been outside for more than a week or 2 you will need new rotors too as they will be pitted and will wear irregularly from rusting even if it has since been worn off by driving it.

Dealerships do not generally regularly drive expensive cars in inventory to preserve them. They may do the odd demo drive or be used for a while by a manager or owner but the vast majority of the time this car will most likely have been sitting. Don't trust what you are told - only what you can see clear evidence of.

I would suggest that the asking price is the most important issue here.

For you to suggest that the FPC engines for the first 4 years of production wolf down oil compared to your 2019 GT350 is absurd to say the least.

As far as this car possibly sitting outside for more than a week or 2 after which time you are also suggesting that the rotors need to be replaced!!

If that was the case then pretty much every new car on a Ford lot would need to replace the rotors on each car prior to selling.

I am not suggesting that whoever buys this car that they not do their due diligence but some common sense has to come into play here such as replacing all operating fluids and closely inspecting the Michelin tires which in my experience last up to 10 years and not just the 5 years that you are suggesting.

At the end of the day it sounds like this is still a brand new vehicle and suggest that this vehicle will come with a 3 year Bumper-To-Bumper warranty and 5 year Powertrain warranty therefore most issues that may be realized in the first 3 years of operation should be covered.

With an MSRP price of $58,840 it will be interesting to hear what the asking price is for this vehicle and whether it has accumulated many miles over the last 5 years?

 

[72&18]

So I bought my new '18 in April of '20 with 60 miles. I was able to get it for 19% below MSRP. What do you guys think an offer for this '16 would be for the dealer to move this one?

The new owner will need to make sure the warranty clock has not started. Ask for the 'In Service' date. If there is not one, your 3/36 is in full effect.

24% below MSRP would be around 45k.

 

[JAJ]

I would suggest that the asking price is the most important issue here.

For you to suggest that the FPC engines for the first 4 years of production wolf down oil compared to your 2019 GT350 is absurd to say the least.

As far as this car possibly sitting outside for more than a week or 2 after which time you are also suggesting that the rotors need to be replaced!!

If that was the case then pretty much every new car on a Ford lot would need to replace the rotors on each car prior to selling.

I am not suggesting that whoever buys this car that they not do their due diligence but some common sense has to come into play here such as replacing all operating fluids and closely inspecting the Michelin tires which in my experience last up to 10 years and not just the 5 years that you are suggesting.

At the end of the day it sounds like this is still a brand new vehicle and suggest that this vehicle will come with a 3 year Bumper-To-Bumper warranty and 5 year Powertrain warranty therefore most issues that may be realized in the first 3 years of operation should be covered.

With an MSRP price of $58,840 it will be interesting to hear what the asking price is for this vehicle and whether it has accumulated many miles over the last 5 years?

It might also need the engine oil cooler line TSB done on it. Wasn't there a "stop sale" on that issue?

 

[PP0001]

It might also need the engine oil cooler line TSB done on it. Wasn't there a "stop sale" on that issue?

Yes, I recall the engine oil cooler line that was done on my 2015 but don't recall a "stop sale" for that issue but whatever the case that would be an easy fix for the selling Ford dealeship to handle prior to delivering the car to the new owner.

 

[ctandc72]

Sitting unused generally harms a car more than properly maintained usage. Indoors or not does not change the fact that leaving it for months without starting it and getting it fully warm is going to lead to increased wear on the engine in particular each time it is started due to oil draining off components such as cams. About the worst treatment possible for an engine is to be started once every 6 months for a short period of time (such as moving it in a showroom).

No offense meant - seriously - but sitting for 6 months or 6 days. You think more oil drains down into the pan over a longer period? Every time your car sits overnight, you are starting it dry. Especially with the relatively thin oils used today - good thing lubrication technology has come so far.

We've come quite a long way with bearing, piston ring, not to mention gaskets and other automotive materials.

Heck, the engine oil life monitor even takes into account how long the engine has been run at temp and how old (just time passed period) the oil fill is period. I witnessed that first hand on a buddy's GT when he got back from a year long deployment. He did a fresh oil change right before he left and put the battery on a trickle charger. After firing it up - and it fired right up with zero issues - he drove it like normal. The oil change monitor triggered soon after running it the first time.

I agree that starting an engine and not letting it get up to temp, and then is just sitting otherwise, is bad for the oil. The oil life monitor takes that into account.

I would also recommend a complete new set of tires since the originals are 5 years old plus have been sitting. If it has been outside for more than a week or 2 you will need new rotors too as they will be pitted and will wear irregularly from rusting even if it has since been worn off by driving it.

Tire technology has made strides too. Although UV damage is still bad on tires, I'd imagine this car sat inside most of the time - limiting that damage. And flat spots from sitting aren't really a thing with modern, quality car tires anymore.

If I didn't notice significant weather-checking on the tires (Which is NOT the same as dry rot - all tires exposed to the elements have weather-checking) I'd run 'em. I just changed out a set of tires on one of my trucks..I bought them with less than 1k miles on them - but 4 years old. Ran them for 15k miles (around two years) with zero issues (went to a more aggressive tread) and a friend bought them from me and he's been running them with zero issues.

As for "needing new rotors" after sitting outside for more than a week or two? Not sure where that's coming from. Rotors will rust - overnight sometimes - even inside depending on temperature and humidity. After a few applications of the brakes, they are good to go. I see this with an old 4x4 I have. It's the next restore project going in my shop. It sat for over a year. Charged the battery, fired it up. Brakes dragged / made noise until after they were applied a few times after coming up to temp. Rotors were clean and smooth again.

 

[The Rooster]

The only realistic concern is that (assuming it hasn't been driven) theres 5 year old gas in the tank. That would be the only thing I might want addressed before taking delivery; drain the tank and have the fuel system cleaned. if its been driven as a demo and had a few miles put on it each year I wouldn't even worry about that.

 

[NotagainV2]

Some of you have delusional expectations.

A real barn find would melt your brains.

LOL.

 

[cactus_kid]

Worse, some may be too young to comprehend your post.

 

[ctandc72]

The only realistic concern is that (assuming it hasn't been driven) theres 5 year old gas in the tank. That would be the only thing I might want addressed before taking delivery; drain the tank and have the fuel system cleaned. if its been driven as a demo and had a few miles put on it each year I wouldn't even worry about that.

Old gas sucks. And it's even worse - not sure if it's the ethanol, it being unleaded or BOTH. Recently pulled the body off the frame on a 96 Bronco. (One guy wants the rust free tub and title, another guy the frame). It sat for 3 years. With close to 20 gallons of gas in it. So I left the tank in the frame. I siphoned it as close to dry as I could get it. That smell was bad. Tried to use some of it in my burn barrels / fire pit.......it would ignite, but would barely burn.

Some of you have delusional expectations.

A real barn find would melt your brains.

LOL.

10 or so years ago, I bought a 1963-ish (they looked the same for several years - and it's been 10 years so gimme a break) pickup from a co-worker's family member. It had been sitting, in a legit barn, for years. Last inspection and tags were in the late 80's. Surprisingly not that rusted. Worked hard over the years (lots of dings and dents).

Removed the fuel tank (behind the seat in those years). Cleaned it out. Changed the oil. Put a carb kit in the carb (it's a 1bbl it's dead simple and takes no time) it had coolant in it . Fresh points, fresh plugs, fresh battery and it fired right up.

The smoke / debris show was glorious. Wasn't oil or water smoke - something had made nests in the exhaust pipe. That was fun.

Drove it around the yard. A couple drums were frozen but broke loose after a clutch drop on the old three on the tree.

Guy said "It would never start, hasn't been started in over 20 years)". Got it cheap. Drove it on the trailer. Never unloaded at my place. Me and my buddy were in a truck stop parking lot getting gas and guy asked if it was for sale. I said make an offer. He did. We even drove about 30 miles out of our way to deliver it.

 

[cactus_kid]

Worse, old gas is extremely unstable. As with unexploded old ordnance, one never knows what will happen with it

 

[Tony_the_Brit]

No offense meant - seriously - but sitting for 6 months or 6 days. You think more oil drains down into the pan over a longer period?

The film of oil on, for example, a camshaft lobe does indeed get thinner as time goes by. After 6 days it is still sufficient to protect the surface upon startup but after 4-6 months that protection is far less. If it were just one startup after that length of time you will likely be OK but done multiple times over a few years the wear and risks increase.

Tire technology has made strides too. Although UV damage is still bad on tires, I'd imagine this car sat inside most of the time - limiting that damage. And flat spots from sitting aren't really a thing with modern, quality car tires anymore.

If this were a Corolla I would agree, but if you are going to take it on the track? As for the flat spots etc. check with Michelin about tire storage.

As for "needing new rotors" after sitting outside for more than a week or two? Not sure where that's coming from. Rotors will rust - overnight sometimes - even inside depending on temperature and humidity. After a few applications of the brakes, they are good to go. I see this with an old 4x4 I have. It's the next restore project going in my shop. It sat for over a year. Charged the battery, fired it up. Brakes dragged / made noise until after they were applied a few times after coming up to temp. Rotors were clean and smooth again.

You are correct that the rust is the issue I was referring to. A few days isn't a big deal but if the car is outside for months without moving, the rotors rust where exposed and not where the pads cover them. The rust pits the iron. When you use the brakes the rust wars off fast (unless it was a really long time) but the metal is pitted and weaker where the rust was. When you drive the car, after 2-5k you will end up with the rotors having worn thinner where the rust was resulting in uneven braking. Not a huge deal with a Corolla - you just get them resurfaced. Many of you may have experienced this after buying a car.

I'm sorry to have written such big essays about this but I am concerned that someone may spend tens of thousands based on our advice.

As we all seem to agree, this all depends on the price - but I seriously doubt that it will be cheap enough to make it a better bet than a used one for the same cost unless you are planning on storing it.

My dealer clients would ask close to list and if necessary sit on it until there are no more newer new ones out there rather than take a 20k hit given the specific vehicle.

Sponsored