Wiring Amp for Front Speakers

[Justa2v]

Looking to install an aftermarket amp to power aftermarket door speakers with aftermarket tweeters in the 6 speaker base system. Can anyone show me or direct me to a thread on how to exactly wire the amp into the factory radio? Thanks.

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[zero_chance]

Looking to install an aftermarket amp to power aftermarket door speakers with aftermarket tweeters in the 6 speaker base system. Can anyone show me or direct me to a thread on how to exactly wire the amp into the factory radio? Thanks.

The top sticky in this forum should have a majority of the info you need. It’s about 60 plus pages but worth the read. Bear in mind the signal from the factory head unit is already amplified so you would need an amp with speaker level inputs, or you may be able to adjust yours to line level with Forscan but dont quote me on that because all my work has been centered on the 12 speaker setups.

 

[Cathul]

You need a T-Harness, f.e. from Metra or CARAV 12-240 to get the signal lines and remote turn on for your amp.
From there use Stinger Speedwire with the 9 conductor from the T-Harness to the amp and another Stinger Speedwire to the front to feed the amplified signal into the stock speaker wiring.
Stinger Speedwire 9 conductor cable, because of 1 pair each for front left, front right, rear left, rear right and a remote turn on. Get a PAC-Audio TR4 to turn the 6 volt audio enable into a 12 volt audio enable for the amplifier.
Use ForScan to reprogram the ACM to give you variable line level signal instead of the high-level, even if the amp has high-lvl inputs. The variable line level will not clip, while the amplified high-level signal will clip at around 65% of max volume setting in the ACM.

 

[Justa2v]

Would something like this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/333591159015. I ordered the Rockford Fosgate Punch P400X4 and Hertz DSK 165.3 door speakers/tweeters from crutchfield and they said I would not need anything really additional to wire that amp into the car.

 

[654234567]

You need a T-Harness, f.e. from Metra or CARAV 12-240 to get the signal lines and remote turn on for your amp.
From there use Stinger Speedwire with the 9 conductor from the T-Harness to the amp and another Stinger Speedwire to the front to feed the amplified signal into the stock speaker wiring.
Stinger Speedwire 9 conductor cable, because of 1 pair each for front left, front right, rear left, rear right and a remote turn on. Get a PAC-Audio TR4 to turn the 6 volt audio enable into a 12 volt audio enable for the amplifier.
Use ForScan to reprogram the ACM to give you variable line level signal instead of the high-level, even if the amp has high-lvl inputs. The variable line level will not clip, while the amplified high-level signal will clip at around 65% of max volume setting in the ACM.

That sounds like way too much work just to upgrade door speakers.

 

[Cathul]

Would something like this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/333591159015. I ordered the Rockford Fosgate Punch P400X4 and Hertz DSK 165.3 door speakers/tweeters from crutchfield and they said I would not need anything really additional to wire that amp into the car.

That's just a T-Harness with a High-Low-Level converter. You still need to route the powerwires from the battery (don't forget the fuse!) to the amp.
And using a high-low-level converter is always inferior to reprogram the ACM for variable line output. If you really don't want to reprogram the ACM you still need a T-harness, but no additional high-low-level converter, as the Punch P400x4 has one built in. You still need to route the signal cables to the amp and the speaker cables back to the T-harness.
This way you can totally avoid cutting the factory wires, which is a big plus++++. Therefor... get a T-harness and the Stinger speedwire and do it right the first time. If you decide to reprogram the ACM to variable line level later on you still use the same Speedwire cable to bring the signal back to your amplifier. No need to rewire anything if doing it right from the get go.

 

[Cathul]

That sounds like way too much work just to upgrade door speakers.

Well, it sound like way too much work, i'd rather do it right the first time, than doing everything all over again in case you want to change something.
The T-harness breaks out the signal/speaker wire without the need to cut anything anywhere in the factory wire harness. Yes, you have to work with routing the Speedwire cables to wherever your amplifier is, but it's totally worth it afterwards as when you reprogram your ACM to variable line level later on you still use the same signal lines, this time instead with the speaker signal with variable line level. No need to change your wiring just because you want to use variable line level output or add a DSP or whatever.
If you don't want to use speedwire you could also get prefabed cable kits with ISO connectors. F.e. in Germany we have the Audio System HLAC-2 or HLAC-4 in length up to 5 meters which are totally plug'n'play with the right T-harness (the CARAV 12-240 f.e.). They even have speaker cables integrated with wire ferules on the amp side and ISO-connector on the T-harness side. Guess those or similar are available all over the world.
It cannot be much simpler than that.

 

[StangTime]

Is there a short harness you can get if you are going to put an aftermarket amp in the factory amp location?

EDIT: Never-mind. Going with a different idea.

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