New Amp: Connection Point for Input from Front Speakers (Base Model)?

[datamon]

I am installing an amp and speakers to replace the front sound stage for my base audio ecoboost.

From reading the sticky "Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)":

Amplifier Connectors Thank you ThirtyThreePointThree and h65 for getting part numbers and the rest of this information.
These are made by Molex and can be had from Mouser.com.

34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160

34690-0161 - C2385A has most of the speaker outputs.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161

34772-0142 - C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140

So it seems that connector C2385A has the signals that I need to feed to the high-level inputs on my amp. But I have 2 questions:

1. Where is this connector physically located?

2. How do I use the referenced molex connector (34690-0161)? I need to get RF+, RF-, LF+ and LF- to my amp, and then get my amp outputs back to the original circuits (using existing speaker wiring). Can this all be done using just this molex connector or do I need the others that are mentioned?

I have already tapped the rear speakers with an LOC and installed 2 subs and also installed bass shakers (Dayton brand from Parts Express) under my front seats. The bass shakers really add to the experience. I have them on a separate remote gain knob from my subs and, when dialed-in properly and not overdone, they have a very nice effect. I took some photos and will do a write-up sometime.

T H A N K S!!

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[wildcatgoal]

Typically, for "no-amp" systems, I always pull signal from directly behind the radio where the signal is strongest (cutting the OEM wires, capping them, and taping them away to be re-soldered should I choose to go back to stock), then route the signal with "9-wire" back to my processor or whatever you're going to use to convert the signal into your amplifier (some amps have LOC's built-in). You do not need to use heavy gauge wire to bring the signal back to the amplifier - just no smaller than what the stock wiring is, probably 18 or 16 AWG COPPER wire.

I would figure the connector you're talking about is the one that connects to the back of the radio, as that is where the signal is should be amplified for base radio speakers.

And since we're on the topic... do yourself a favor and DON'T use aluminum wiring for ANYTHING except maybe a turn on lead in your car.

 

[mumbles]

I believe the plug you are referencing is for the Shaker 9/12 speaker systems and not the "base" system which you say you have.

I would suggest IM'ing user OEMradio on this site as he probably has the plug/pin info you need... trying to save you a few bucks

 

[vnzbd]

OEM is now selling/shipping a harness that is a direct plug in. Nicely put together unit. It will allow easy access to grab a speaker level signal and also tap directly into the speakers them selves. The big plus is if you use his program to go to line level the rca's are paralleled the speaker wires. The best option for the base unit that I have seen. Also the base units plug is a different form factor than the one above.

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