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lisandra

lisandra

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The PCV valve *is* a check valve. If you don't gut it, you shouldn't need to get another check valve. Some people like to add a check valve between the intake manifold and the catch can so that the catch can doesn't see boost pressure when the intake manifold is under boost. That's totally optional though. If the manufacturer of the catch can doesn't include a check valve, it should be because the catch can can handle the boost pressure.
So why would people use another one then?
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Need more info , when is it smoking , when its cold in morning , after hard boosting and letting off .
Its going to be hard to know w/o more info .
With the oil smoking, this seems to get trigger more with A/C on, cause your vacuum drops , so seems it could be some pressure building up at low idle speed in crankcase .

On water/coolant if your worried , what you could do is put piece of tape on your coolant tank .
then in morning put a cold mark on tape (make sure car is level ) , do the same when hot .
now you have two reference marks and should not go down over time , week, month etc (pull tape off when testing done).
There are also things to look for if you had coolant leaking into combustion (bad head gasket/head ) .
Your coolant temp can move fast with load put on engine , sometimes you can see bubbles in coolant system from expansion tank or rad cap but its really hard to tell w/o proper tests if it just small amount .

All that said, I doubt you have issue with so new car, these look to have nice head gaskets .
lisandra, don't ignore this post.
 

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Like I said, some people might just feel safer if the catch can is protected from boost pressure. I've never seen a catch can that couldn't handle boost pressure, but if you're worried about it, contact the manufacturer, either on this forum or directly, and ask them about it.

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dragonacc

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So why would people use another one then?
OMG read the thread! The solution is oil catch can with check valve and gut the PCV if you have the same smoking problem.
 

ronv95

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Like I said, some people might just feel safer if the catch can is protected from boost pressure. I've never seen a catch can that couldn't handle boost pressure, but if you're worried about it, contact the manufacturer, either on this forum or directly, and ask them about it.

Sent from my C6606 using Tapatalk
Yeah it was just an added measure, I'm sure the mishi can can handle it but I just added it for an extra safety precaution. Fortunately after adding the can, valve, changing oil, and raising rev to 900 I haven't had any issues. It's not worth it to me at this point to mess with gutting the pcv just so I can lower the revs back down to 750.
 

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lisandra

Need more info , when is it smoking , when its cold in morning , after hard boosting and letting off .
Its going to be hard to know w/o more info .
With the oil smoking, this seems to get trigger more with A/C on, cause your vacuum drops , so seems it could be some pressure building up at low idle speed in crankcase .

On water/coolant if your worried , what you could do is put piece of tape on your coolant tank .
then in morning put a cold mark on tape (make sure car is level ) , do the same when hot .
now you have two reference marks and should not go down over time , week, month etc (pull tape off when testing done).
There are also things to look for if you had coolant leaking into combustion (bad head gasket/head ) .
Your coolant temp can move fast with load put on engine , sometimes you can see bubbles in coolant system from expansion tank or rad cap but its really hard to tell w/o proper tests if it just small amount .

All that said, I doubt you have issue with so new car, these look to have nice head gaskets .
Sorry, had not seen this post.
Well it seems to be random, i know its pribably not but havent logged the times it has properly. on start ups in the morning i havent noticed the smoke yet, sometimes on red lights theres enough that i notice it right away, after normal driving. The other day for example i got home, waited about an hour, and when i started it up and left it idle for 10 minutes there was enough smoke to put any barbecue to shame. And then today, after driving it hard for 45 min, nothing. Not a single speck of smoke. Im leanin towards the pcv cause when i pulled the hotside pipe when i was having a boost leak there was oil in it. Not a butt load but enough to be noticed.

Look everyone i am sorry if there is another post about this, but its 41 pages long. And i really have read a lot of it, but a lot of the cases seem to be related to catless downpipes and i had not gotten to the part about the pcv. Its 40 pages. I am sorry if this seems like a double post. Thank you all for the summary of that thread :)
Ill install the mishimoto and do the rev thing and report back
 

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Yep, ours did it the other day. No mods to car yet. We were sitting still, very hot outside, running air conditioner when it began to blow smoke (white) out the tailpipes. It stopped when we drove, and stopped when the AC was turned off.



lisandra

Need more info , when is it smoking , when its cold in morning , after hard boosting and letting off .
Its going to be hard to know w/o more info .
With the oil smoking, this seems to get trigger more with A/C on, cause your vacuum drops , so seems it could be some pressure building up at low idle speed in crankcase .

On water/coolant if your worried , what you could do is put piece of tape on your coolant tank .
then in morning put a cold mark on tape (make sure car is level ) , do the same when hot .
now you have two reference marks and should not go down over time , week, month etc (pull tape off when testing done).
There are also things to look for if you had coolant leaking into combustion (bad head gasket/head ) .
Your coolant temp can move fast with load put on engine , sometimes you can see bubbles in coolant system from expansion tank or rad cap but its really hard to tell w/o proper tests if it just small amount .

All that said, I doubt you have issue with so new car, these look to have nice head gaskets .
 

Alloy

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Yup, I am a victim of the white smoke under the same conditions as lisandra and mpd3244. Won't do it all the time, just when the car has been stopped either at a light or in a drive through, after normal driving. When engine is revved at that point will put out a plume of smoke. But stops when driving. If I drive for a bit (10-15min), and then rev, no smoke. Only when it's been idling. I do have an aftermarket DP with Hi-flow cat from MAPerformance. I'm just stuck trying to decide which catch can to buy...and worried about voiding my warranty. As of now, i can easily take off the DP and take it in...but as one of the posts said in the really long thread that if it's a bad turbo, they just replace with the same thing. I just bought a boost pressure gauge as suggested in an earlier thread. So I'll check the boost myself then do a compression check before I take to the dealer.
 

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Not to thread jack, but a lot of people have also reported the cause of smoke being the banjo bolt on the turbo oil feed line. There have been some reports that have shown the hole in this banjo bolt to be too large, allowing excess oil to flow into the turbo causing the seals to swell up, causing the smoking.

On another note, we now offer catch cans for both sides of the vacuum system on the Ecoboost Mustang and they come with everything you need to install!
 

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Yup, I am a victim of the white smoke under the same conditions as lisandra and mpd3244. Won't do it all the time, just when the car has been stopped either at a light or in a drive through, after normal driving. When engine is revved at that point will put out a plume of smoke. But stops when driving. If I drive for a bit (10-15min), and then rev, no smoke. Only when it's been idling. I do have an aftermarket DP with Hi-flow cat from MAPerformance. I'm just stuck trying to decide which catch can to buy...and worried about voiding my warranty. As of now, i can easily take off the DP and take it in...but as one of the posts said in the really long thread that if it's a bad turbo, they just replace with the same thing. I just bought a boost pressure gauge as suggested in an earlier thread. So I'll check the boost myself then do a compression check before I take to the dealer.
There is no way that a catch can, properly installed, should be reason for a warranty claim denial. You are not altering the behavior of the engine in any way. The PCV system will function just as it did before the catch can. The catch can will simply collect any of the crankcase vapors that would normally have passed on into the intake. I have the UPR dual-valve catch can on my EB Mustang and I will not be removing it if I need to take my car in for warranty work. There's just no reason to.
 

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Not to thread jack, but a lot of people have also reported the cause of smoke being the banjo bolt on the turbo oil feed line. There have been some reports that have shown the hole in this banjo bolt to be too large, allowing excess oil to flow into the turbo causing the seals to swell up, causing the smoking.

On another note, we now offer catch cans for both sides of the vacuum system on the Ecoboost Mustang and they come with everything you need to install!
link?
 

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This has been my experience with working with various types of turbo's (none ball bearing though) .
Most all are very similar, the bearings are either 2 piece or single cartridge type . For seals , the exhaust side uses a steal ring type (similar idea of piston ring but smaller and end gapes are split type ).
On intake they use thrust plate type seal .

Now on leaking since FI engines there no real vacuum on intake side your generally not going to get oil going that way .
On exhaust they do leak and smoke "if" the back bearing gets worn letting turbo shaft off its center .
So, I don't think this is turbo fault but it is hard to tell and I am guessing .

Other parts to check that also cause oil, smoking is all to do with restricting the drain line on hose .
This can happen for various reasons, PCV (pressure in crankcase) issues , The drain line is not verical enough so drainage is not good and or the position of drain point in pan/block is not baffled good and oil splashing from crank is restricting it's drain .

Maybe Venders that are running upgrading engines can check that, or already looked at this stuff .

Just throwing this out there :)
 

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This has been my experience with working with various types of turbo's (none ball bearing though) .
Most all are very similar, the bearings are either 2 piece or single cartridge type . For seals , the exhaust side uses a steal ring type (similar idea of piston ring but smaller and end gapes are split type ).
On intake they use thrust plate type seal .

Now on leaking since FI engines there no real vacuum on intake side your generally not going to get oil going that way .
On exhaust they do leak and smoke "if" the back bearing gets worn letting turbo shaft off its center .
So, I don't think this is turbo fault but it is hard to tell and I am guessing .

Other parts to check that also cause oil, smoking is all to do with restricting the drain line on hose .
This can happen for various reasons, PCV (pressure in crankcase) issues , The drain line is not verical enough so drainage is not good and or the position of drain point in pan/block is not baffled good and oil splashing from crank is restricting it's drain .

Maybe Venders that are running upgrading engines can check that, or already looked at this stuff .

Just throwing this out there :)
There's already a huge thread about this and why it's happening... I believe it's linked in the above posts
 

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There's already a huge thread about this and why it's happening... I believe it's linked in the above posts
Yeh, I read that thread, catch can and gutted PCV seemed to help many, but that is not necessarily the cause .
Whole system needs looking over .
Ford would have to recert the car if they make major emission changes, so might be a while for them to do proper fix .
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