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Which CAI will it be??

Darrinm03

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What everyone seems to be forgetting are two things.

A) air is not pulled through the open tops on the 5.0s. For those that haven't owned a coyote before, the intake is a "ram air" design and has a duct that pulls fresh air in from behind the grille, that most aftermarket intakes retain. When the car is in motion, this is where your air flow comes from not the engine bay.

B) even if airflow was pulled through the open tops, engine heat is not an issue while the car is in motion, which is when the "gains" would matter, if there even was any. The engine is behind the intake, airflow from the moving vehicle will push that airflow rearward even more. On cold days, my 5.0 will fog the windows right behind the hood from the engine heat being extracted out.

Either way, there are no gains to be had, the 2011-2014 5.0s even LOST power with some applications over stock intake as these are PLENTY EFFICIENT. If there were gains to be had, it sure as hell isn't $300 worth of gains. And in EVERY situation I've researched, drop in air filters 100% of the time reduced HP or TQ or both. All this coming from a guy that has a 5.0 with a Steeda CAI in the garage as we type:headbonk::headbonk:
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souprmage

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Here is the JLT thread: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php/jlts-cai-installed-4133.html

A tune and tuner will run you around $500 (for a lund remote tune and x-4 tuner), a CAI another $400 or so. If you look over their dyno run on page two of that thread along with their testing strategy, they clearly show what the normal pattern is. They do one thing at a time to see it's effect on the dyno.

A tune by itself will net only so much. Adding a CAI along with a tune using the same timing as the original tune, gains you the same amount again. I really doubt they're blowing smoke.

It's seems just as good a bang-for-buck adding the CAI as it is going a tune alone. Not entirely sure what I'm missing here.

Also page 3 has a good bit on air temps inside the box while driving in different ambient temps, and why they leave the hood open when they dyno a car. Quite informative.
 

Anthony

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i love people who know everything but cant see everything.........

hot air intakes....because the front of the car is blocked the second after you put the car in gear. stopping all air flow though the front of the car.

or at any speed, airflow though the grill/front of car will push/ displace "hot air" from the front of the engine bay to the rear and out of the engine bay, the faster you go the more effective this simple concept is to grasp
 

tj@steeda

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Don't forget about Steeda's CAI:

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-proflow-mustang-cold-air-intake-manual-gt-2015-555-3193/

This Cold Air Intake is so effective at improving airflow into the five-liter engine that a performance tune is not just recommended, it is required for maximum performance! In an effort to maximize performance and provide our customers with only the very best products we have partnered with the leader in automotive tuning - SCT Performance. - See more at: http://www.steeda.com/steeda-proflo...manual-gt-2015-555-3193/#sthash.X2iMlczc.dpuf
Best Regards,

TJ
 

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tj@steeda

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Hello RamJam,

We are working hard to get these units in stock ... once they become available ... we can email / call you.

You can provide your email address / contact info to [email protected].

Best Regards,

TJ
 

Motobrat95

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None of you guys must be very familiar with turbos in the first place. All air that goes thru the turbine gets superheated the minute it touches it. It's not an NA car so stop treating it like one.
 

mbreinin

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None of you guys must be very familiar with turbos in the first place. All air that goes thru the turbine gets superheated the minute it touches it. It's not an NA car so stop treating it like one.
You still want the least restrictive path to the turbo. It is not about "cold air" in my book, it is about breathing (and sound with these cars). My race car has nothing on the turbo. Wide open.
 

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Darkrune

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None of you guys must be very familiar with turbos in the first place. All air that goes thru the turbine gets superheated the minute it touches it. It's not an NA car so stop treating it like one.
This is 100% true. If you want a "cold air" intake, get a water to air intercooler :p. Or better yet!! Dry ice! There are two main things an intake needs for this. MAF placement close to stock so it is easy to tune and a high flow air filter. The turbo does the rest.
 

Herr_Poopschitz

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Cold air is also important on turbo applications. Compression through the impeller wheel does increase air temps, but one of the variables associated with the final temp is based on the initial air temp into the inducer.
 

Darkrune

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Cold air is also important on turbo applications. Compression through the impeller wheel does increase air temps, but one of the variables associated with the final temp is based on the initial air temp into the inducer.
Ambient temperature has more to do with that though. If you look at most of the "Cold air" designs, it is negligible. As a function of thermal energy, the turbo efficiency and intercooler play a much bigger part in the cold air.
 

Tommy V

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Plus the air goes through an intercooler first, significantly reducing intake air temp.
 

ThatsMrGimp2U

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I wonder if anyone will design a short ram that stays on the passenger side of the engine bay, provided there is enough airflow.

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