Wheel Spacers ??

[High Velocity]

I can't stop laughing after reading this comment.

How did I make a mistake? I bought a part, installed it properly, and had zero issues. How is that a mistake? And how exactly do I “Ask Porsche” anything? Should I go up to the next 911 I see and start asking it questions?
[/QUOTE

Sponsored

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

Almost everyone with a decently jacked up trucks has to install spacers. My cousin has aftermarket rims and still needed spacers. It was lifted professionally and the rims were added at the same time. My cousin has had zero issues with them. The dealership rotates them and tourks them to specifications. I would not recommend tracking them. He does play in the mud and has fun with them and they have held up with no issues. Most people who ride em till the wheels fall off never properly toured them.​

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

When I had the stock PP wheels, I used 25mm spacers in the front and back. It gave that nice flush fitment. The ones I had were from Steeda. Ensure you get the hubcentric ones.

This is the best picture I could find. This was before it was lowered.

I'm running the same size on my PP car, previously with these wheels, now with the PP2 style wheels (9.5" front, 10" rear). I'm about to swap those front wheels out for 10" wheels, so I might go down some in the front, but it's perfect fitment.

JR

 

[2023EGM1]

I’m using 20mm bolt ons on a MACH 1, perfect.

 

[Steeda-Sergio]

Surprised by your post, you should know that bolt-on spacers are a bad and unsafe choice and not peddle them
You double the potential failure points
There is a reason why manufacturers (such as Porsche) and race teams exclusively use bolt-through

Hey Luc,

This comes down to application.

For street use, Hub Centric spacers are a simple and cost-effective solution to getting the spacing you need.

For track use, you should go with extended stud and slip on, due to the loads you'll see when racing.

We use extended studs and slip on our #20 car because we have a variety of different wheel/ tire combos.

Extended studs and slip ons are a superior choice, but a bit overkill for street use. We do offer these as well.

Ford Performance M-1104-AB S550 Mustang Front Wheel Hub Kit w/ 3" ARP Studs (15-26)
Steeda 555-6606 ARP Mustang +1" Extended Wheel Stud Kit (15-23)

Personally, the overall best option is getting a set of wheels that require no spacer at all because the back spacing is dead on., like our Steeda Mustang Trident Satin Black Staggered Wheel Package - 20x10/11 (05-26) , but that is a bigger commitment that not everyone can readily jump on.

 

[mrich44]

if you end up using adapters, the ones with their own studs, dont strip one of the nuts holding them on.... that wasnt fun

 

[ScottsGT]

I ran a set of 20mm bolt On’s for over 75,000 miles with no issues other than wearing down the front tires quicker. I followed the torque specs and even loctited the nuts on to hold them in place for peace of mind.
Only reason I took them off was I got tired of arguing with the counter monkeys at the tire store about NOT using factory torque spec on the lug nuts.
And honestly, the car handles curves and turns much better with them gone.

 

[luc]

I ran a set of 20mm bolt On’s for over 75,000 miles with no issues other than wearing down the front tires quicker. I followed the torque specs and even loctited the nuts on to hold them in place for peace of mind.
Only reason I took them off was I got tired of arguing with the counter monkeys at the tire store about NOT using factory torque spec on the lug nuts.
And honestly, the car handles curves and turns much better with them gone.

It’s one of those post that leave me scratching my head because it make no sense at all…..reduce the car track width and the car corner better ???

 

[pinksurfer]

It’s one of those post that leave me scratching my head because it make no sense at all…..reduce the car track width and the car corner better ???

everyone perceives cornering differently and 2 people in the same situation will have different takes. scottgt's suspension bits he chose, alignment specs and overall roads he drives on could show a large enough difference in cornering after removing.

wider track is good IF done in a way that doesn't jack up the suspension geometry but sometimes wider isn't better. remember physics in school as you move the wheels outboard leaving the rest of the suspension unchanged will alter the damping/shocks and make the suspension "softer".

 

[ScottsGT]

Think about it. The center of the wheel was moved out 20mm on each side from how the suspension/wheel combination was designed.
Font steering was off from the designed turning geometry. Almost like it was “scrubbing” through a turn. To be honest, I didn’t notice it when I installed the spacers. But after 8 or 9 years it was a difference of night and day after removing them.

 

[Fordphanatic]

Think about it. The center of the wheel was moved out 20mm on each side from how the suspension/wheel combination was designed.
Font steering was off from the designed turning geometry. Almost like it was “scrubbing” through a turn. To be honest, I didn’t notice it when I installed the spacers. But after 8 or 9 years it was a difference of night and day after removing them.

Thanks for the honest input with real world driving experience. I think Im just going to wait for now and eventually get new wheels and tires with a different offset.

 

[Tripp051420]

Thanks for the honest input with real world driving experience. I think Im just going to wait for now and eventually get new wheels and tires with a different offset.

In terms of handling, there is no difference between wheels/spacer and wheels with a proper offset. Not trying to talk you into either path. I use to have wheel spacers and now have aftermarket wheels. In terms of handling, having a lower offset wheel and spacers is no different than an aftermarket wheel with proper offset. They are working/achieving the same thing

 

[2023EGM1]

I ran a set of 20mm bolt On’s for over 75,000 miles with no issues other than wearing down the front tires quicker. I followed the torque specs and even loctited the nuts on to hold them in place for peace of mind.
Only reason I took them off was I got tired of arguing with the counter monkeys at the tire store about NOT using factory torque spec on the lug nuts.
And honestly, the car handles curves and turns much better with them gone.

Why not using torque specs? I reduced torque on the nuts that hold the spacers, but not on the ones holding the wheels to them.

 

[luc]

Why not using torque specs? I reduced torque on the nuts that hold the spacers, but not on the ones holding the wheels to them.

Factory specs is 150lbs
Doesn’t matter which one you under torque, the wheel or the spacer, the net result is that it’s not torqued correctly and therefore not attached to the hub with the torque that is required by Ford
Do you know better than Ford ????

 

[2023EGM1]

Are you Scott?

Sponsored