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Wheel spacer studs free spinning

Rapid Red

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Obviously you can buy thicker spacers without built in studs but then you will have to use extended studs on your hubs. I don’t want to bother with that these days because I’ve done it in the past and it is a PITA. Sure it’s less of a hassle than drilling out studs though.
I’ve used spacers on multiple vehicles and this is the first time I’ve had an issue.

I originally used 150lbft on bother spacer to hub and wheel to spacer; however, I’m no longer willing to put 150 lbft on studs that spline into an aluminum spacer.

I truly don’t understand why Ford insists on 150lbft of torque on the wheel nuts when few other cars I’ve seen use that high of torque. I’m happy to be schooled as to why this is. Normal torque specs for a 14 mm stud are 80-95 lbft from what I’ve seen.

That does sound high, my truck is 140lb-ft. Like you like to know the reasoning for 150lb-ft for these wheels.

Found this
MUSTANG V8 / FASTBACK 1965 – 2014 100 ft-lbs
MUSTANG 17″BASE / V6 2015 – 2015 110 ft-lbs
MUSTANG PERF.PKG / ECOBOOST 2015 – 2018 150 ft-lbs
Could this be the reason
Ford changed the wheel studs from the typical 1/2”-20 thread pitch to 14mm-1.50 pitch.

I know this 150 it will be here.

Pep
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shogun32

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aleccolin

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OPTION 1:

FRPP hub kits with 3" ARP studs are P/N M-1104-AB (front) and M-1104-B (rear). Total cost from Levittown is about $635.

The FRPP hubs are loaded with studs 0.5" longer than stock.

OPTION 2:

If you can press them out/in yourself, the 3" ARP stud kit is M-1107-C (need 2) and the open end nuts are M-1012-N (need 4). Total cost from Levittown is about $353, plus maybe $25 in axle nuts and misc, looking at roughly $378.

The FRPP stud kits are 0.5" longer than stock
 
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aleccolin

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OPTION 3:

If you buy the ARP studs directly from summit you can save money and have the option of 0.5" or 1.0" longer than OE.

ARP P/N 100-7732 is a 5 pack of studs 0.5" over stock (UHL 2.935") - $50 from Summit
ARP P/N 100-7733 is a 5 pack of studs 1.0" over stock (UHL 3.435") - $60 from Summit

Summit has the same M-1012-N open end lug nuts (5 pack) for $12. Total cost is about $288 plus tax, free shipping.

Since I'm using 25mm spacers my only option is to get the ARP studs directly, nothing from Ford Racing will be long enough.

Hope that helps
 
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Rapid Red

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Good advice given, proper way to solve the problem once and for all. OP does not have a press, machine shop fix em right up.

Got flamed on this site for suggesting bolt on spacers were not a great idea. Of course that came from a salesman, not unexpected.

see signature LOL
 

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aleccolin

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I have wheel adapters from Coyote Accessories, and while they seem pretty decent I wouldn't run them on a drag car with a tire or for any serious track use, which is why I plan to upgrade to ARP shit and let 'er eat. So far I have had zero issues, but the last thing you want when rolling out of the pits is to worry that your wheels might come off if you hit the curbing just wrong or wind up sideways off track.
 
OP
OP
TheMegalodon

TheMegalodon

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All I see here is some monkey (dealership) who only knows how to count ugga duggas, not how to secure a fastener.
Hahaha that’s exactly what my friends said verbatim when I told them what the tech did. “Oh so he basically ugga dugga’d the wheel nuts on”

I think it’s clear that the best thing to do is buy properly fitted wheels and avoid spacers all together. This is especially important if you’re hitting the drag strip or track. The factory PP wheels are heavy enough as it is so adding more unsprung weight (albeit minor) isn’t helpful. I had to spend money for a proper winter setup when I bought the car 3 years back, so replacing the factory PP wheels isn’t a major priority given the cost to have LMR send me wheels to Canada. For you guys it’s $999 and free shipping for a nice set of 19x10” SVE wheels. For me it’s $999 + $300 shipping + $224 tax (incl. duty/brokerage) x 1.41 exchange means $2200 CAD on wheels plus 2 new 275/40 tires to fit the fronts (255 is a bit of a stretch on 10” wheels, not safe). Maybe one day.
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