Wheel spacer studs free spinning

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by TheMegalodon, Apr 25, 2020.

  1. Rapid Red

    Rapid Red Well-Known Member

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    #16 Rapid Red, May 20, 2020
    Last edited: May 20, 2020

    That does sound high, my truck is 140lb-ft. Like you like to know the reasoning for 150lb-ft for these wheels.

    Found this
    MUSTANG V8 / FASTBACK 1965 – 2014 100 ft-lbs
    MUSTANG 17″BASE / V6 2015 – 2015 110 ft-lbs
    MUSTANG PERF.PKG / ECOBOOST 2015 – 2018 150 ft-lbs
    Could this be the reason
    Ford changed the wheel studs from the typical 1/2”-20 thread pitch to 14mm-1.50 pitch.

    I know this 150 it will be here.

    Pep
     
  2. shogun32

    shogun32 Well-Known Member

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  3. aleccolin

    aleccolin Well-Known Member

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    #18 aleccolin, May 21, 2020
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
    OPTION 1:

    FRPP hub kits with 3" ARP studs are P/N M-1104-AB (front) and M-1104-B (rear). Total cost from Levittown is about $635.

    The FRPP hubs are loaded with studs 0.5" longer than stock.

    OPTION 2:

    If you can press them out/in yourself, the 3" ARP stud kit is M-1107-C (need 2) and the open end nuts are M-1012-N (need 4). Total cost from Levittown is about $353, plus maybe $25 in axle nuts and misc, looking at roughly $378.

    The FRPP stud kits are 0.5" longer than stock
     
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  4. aleccolin

    aleccolin Well-Known Member

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    #19 aleccolin, May 21, 2020
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
    OPTION 3:

    If you buy the ARP studs directly from summit you can save money and have the option of 0.5" or 1.0" longer than OE.

    ARP P/N 100-7732 is a 5 pack of studs 0.5" over stock (UHL 2.935") - $50 from Summit
    ARP P/N 100-7733 is a 5 pack of studs 1.0" over stock (UHL 3.435") - $60 from Summit

    Summit has the same M-1012-N open end lug nuts (5 pack) for $12. Total cost is about $288 plus tax, free shipping.

    Since I'm using 25mm spacers my only option is to get the ARP studs directly, nothing from Ford Racing will be long enough.

    Hope that helps
     
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  5. Rapid Red

    Rapid Red Well-Known Member

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    Good advice given, proper way to solve the problem once and for all. OP does not have a press, machine shop fix em right up.

    Got flamed on this site for suggesting bolt on spacers were not a great idea. Of course that came from a salesman, not unexpected.

    see signature LOL
     
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  6. aleccolin

    aleccolin Well-Known Member

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    I have wheel adapters from Coyote Accessories, and while they seem pretty decent I wouldn't run them on a drag car with a tire or for any serious track use, which is why I plan to upgrade to ARP shit and let 'er eat. So far I have had zero issues, but the last thing you want when rolling out of the pits is to worry that your wheels might come off if you hit the curbing just wrong or wind up sideways off track.
     
  7. Brian@BMVK

    [email protected] Well-Known Member

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    All I see here is some monkey (dealership) who only knows how to count ugga duggas, not how to secure a fastener.
     
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  8. OP
    OP
    TheMegalodon

    TheMegalodon Well-Known Member

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    Hahaha that’s exactly what my friends said verbatim when I told them what the tech did. “Oh so he basically ugga dugga’d the wheel nuts on”

    I think it’s clear that the best thing to do is buy properly fitted wheels and avoid spacers all together. This is especially important if you’re hitting the drag strip or track. The factory PP wheels are heavy enough as it is so adding more unsprung weight (albeit minor) isn’t helpful. I had to spend money for a proper winter setup when I bought the car 3 years back, so replacing the factory PP wheels isn’t a major priority given the cost to have LMR send me wheels to Canada. For you guys it’s $999 and free shipping for a nice set of 19x10” SVE wheels. For me it’s $999 + $300 shipping + $224 tax (incl. duty/brokerage) x 1.41 exchange means $2200 CAD on wheels plus 2 new 275/40 tires to fit the fronts (255 is a bit of a stretch on 10” wheels, not safe). Maybe one day.
     
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