What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[DFB5.0]

Always been a fan of Stihl. Looking at one of their gas trimmers (FS 56 RC-E) to replace my Echo.

I'm a Stihl man to the core, but take this from a pro user.....................

I would HIGHLY recommend taking a look at the Husqvarna 522L.

522L String Trimmer | Husqvarna US



I had been using a Stihl KM-56 powerhead (same engine as the FS 56 RC) with the trimmer attachment, it was far too heavy and poorly balanced due to the connection point for attachments. When I went shopping for a new trimmer, I looked at them all. My main requirement was lightweight. I REALLY wanted a pro-grade Stihl, but they are just too heavy. Same for ECHO, Shindaiwa (basically ECHO). Then I looked at Husqvarna.

As a lifelong Stihl man, the idea of buying the other orange brand was like a Ford man buying a Holden. But, everything just clicked. The 522L is the lightest straight-shaft trimmer on the market. It also has anti-vibration handles, so you don't rattle your nerves to pieces. The FS 56 RC doesn't have anti-vibe. Prior to buying the 522L, I was having a lot of nerve issues in my hands and upper back problems holding that Stihl for extended periods. The Husqvarna solved those problems. I know its $100 more than the Stihl, but its worth every single cent.

The weight difference might sound minor, but trust me, you notice it.

522L - 9.26 lbs
FS 56 RC - 10.6 lb

Now, you might look at the specs with concern. The entry level Stihl curved and straight shaft trimmers have a 27.2cc engine, the 522L only has 22.5cc. But trust me here, you won't notice the difference. Actually, the horsepower difference is negligible, 1.01 for the 522L and 1.1 for the Stihl. And unless you are slashing thick scrub, you simply do not need more than what the 522L delivers.

The only thing I would say is to keep the gearhead greased. Some have noted they are fragile, but mine has done a power of work since I bought it in 2018 and haven't had an issue. I grease the head a few times a year, you'd do it once a season for domestic work. I've also run it exclusively on Stihl HP Ultra fully synthetic oil and the piston and cylinder still look new.

Also, the homeowner Stihl tools typically come out of China or the US. The Husqvarna is built in Sweeden. Husqvarna classify the 522L as semi-professional model. However, the pro-grade 525L that sits above it uses the same shaft, handles and gearhead as the 522L, but with a slightly bigger engine and carrying more weight due to the steel bash blade on the bottom of the tank (you don't need that for domestic use, its more to protect the tank when rattling around in the back of a truck).

On mine, I replaced the Husqvarna head with a Speed-Feed head, which are sold by ECHO but there are aftermarket versions too. From memory, you need the Speed-Feed 400, the 500 had some issues.

Speed-Feed 400 | ECHO
Amazon.com.au : speed feed 400 trimmer head

The BEST TRIMMER HEAD ever made! How to install a Universal Speed Feed on most any trimmer.

If I had to buy another trimmer tomorrow, I'd be buying another Husqvarna 522L. The 522L is one of the very best tools I've bought over the years. I do like the pro-grade Stihl FS 94R, but its heavier, more expensive, and the anti-vibration system isn't as good.

Feel free to reach out, I live and breath this stuff.

Sponsored

 

[MAGS1]

I'm a Stihl man to the core, but take this from a pro user.....................

I would HIGHLY recommend taking a look at the Husqvarna 522L.

522L String Trimmer | Husqvarna US



I had been using a Stihl KM-56 powerhead (same engine as the FS 56 RC) with the trimmer attachment, it was far too heavy and poorly balanced due to the connection point for attachments. When I went shopping for a new trimmer, I looked at them all. My main requirement was lightweight. I REALLY wanted a pro-grade Stihl, but they are just too heavy. Same for ECHO, Shindaiwa (basically ECHO). Then I looked at Husqvarna.

As a lifelong Stihl man, the idea of buying the other orange brand was like a Ford man buying a Holden. But, everything just clicked. The 522L is the lightest straight-shaft trimmer on the market. It also has anti-vibration handles, so you don't rattle your nerves to pieces. The FS 56 RC doesn't have anti-vibe. Prior to buying the 522L, I was having a lot of nerve issues in my hands and upper back problems holding that Stihl for extended periods. The Husqvarna solved those problems. I know its $100 more than the Stihl, but its worth every single cent.

The weight difference might sound minor, but trust me, you notice it.

522L - 9.26 lbs
FS 56 RC - 10.6 lb

Now, you might look at the specs with concern. The entry level Stihl curved and straight shaft trimmers have a 27.2cc engine, the 522L only has 22.5cc. But trust me here, you won't notice the difference. Actually, the horsepower difference is negligible, 1.01 for the 522L and 1.1 for the Stihl. And unless you are slashing thick scrub, you simply do not need more than what the 522L delivers.

The only thing I would say is to keep the gearhead greased. Some have noted they are fragile, but mine has done a power of work since I bought it in 2018 and haven't had an issue. I grease the head a few times a year, you'd do it once a season for domestic work. I've also run it exclusively on Stihl HP Ultra fully synthetic oil and the piston and cylinder still look new.

Also, the homeowner Stihl tools typically come out of China or the US. The Husqvarna is built in Sweeden. Husqvarna classify the 522L as semi-professional model. However, the pro-grade 525L that sits above it uses the same shaft, handles and gearhead as the 522L, but with a slightly bigger engine and carrying more weight due to the steel bash blade on the bottom of the tank (you don't need that for domestic use, its more to protect the tank when rattling around in the back of a truck).

On mine, I replaced the Husqvarna head with a Speed-Feed head, which are sold by ECHO but there are aftermarket versions too. From memory, you need the Speed-Feed 400, the 500 had some issues.

Speed-Feed 400 | ECHO
Amazon.com.au : speed feed 400 trimmer head

The BEST TRIMMER HEAD ever made! How to install a Universal Speed Feed on most any trimmer.

If I had to buy another trimmer tomorrow, I'd be buying another Husqvarna 522L. The 522L is one of the very best tools I've bought over the years. I do like the pro-grade Stihl FS 94R, but its heavier, more expensive, and the anti-vibration system isn't as good.

Feel free to reach out, I live and breath this stuff.

Thanks D, appreciate all the insights here. Definitely gives me something to think about. I’ve had mixed luck with Husqvarna, particularly their chainsaws. The 18” saw I had worked great, never had any issues. Sold it several years ago as I no longer needed it. My dad has had nothing but problems with his 18” saw, primarily with the chain coming loose for seemingly no reason. His also leaks, has replaced the lines several times and they still end up leaking. He’s not a frequent user and maintains all his tools well. Maybe it’s just from the infrequent use? He took it to a local dealer/service shop as well and they can’t figure out why it leaks. They did seem to get the chain issue fixed, so far it hasn’t come loose after a few short uses.

I do value your recommendations, particularly since you do a lot of work in this area. I plan to finish out the season with my Echo and will get something new over the winter, start fresh in the spring. Appreciate all the info here, definitely giving me something to think about.

 

[DFB5.0]

KOA 20 Battery Air Inflator (Kit) –

Who here hates pulling up at your local petrol station to fill tyres with air? You know how it is: parking next to a hose reel that doesn't work properly, snagging the hose on the tyres, leaking connections, an inaccurate pressure gauge, and a grotty inflator covered in funk. Yeah, not my idea of fun. So, you either dealt with that annoyance, or went and bought an air compressor of some sort.

I've had a decent air compressor for 15 years, initially purchased for tyres, but also useful for detailing tools. And while I now have a retractable hose reel, I always detest firing up the noisy compressor and attempting to manage the hose while avoiding smacking it into a car. But that all changed once tool companies started making battery-powered compressors/inflators. Compact inflators always existed, but you were tethered to a power cord or jumper leads and all the inconvenience that comes with that. So, you no longer have a hose or cord trailing behind you. Instead, you get a thoroughly portable solution that isn't limited to the confines of your garage — think road trips, worksites, camping. For example, inflating camping beds, or as a backup should you run into trouble on the open road.

Put it this way: I haven't filled tyres with my compressor since getting a Milwaukee M18 Inflator (M18BI0). While it's noisy, you get complete mobility moving around the car. My only complaint is that I wish Milwaukee would send these out with a quick-connect chuck. Apart from that, I've been happy with it.

I did try fitting a quick-chuck, but the machine didn't like it.

Stihl's interpretation of a portable inflator is built around the 10.8V AS battery architecture. While the Milwaukee is only available as a skin, the Stihl can be purchased in skin or kit form. In my case, I scored the kit, which includes the following:

https://www.stihl.com.au/en/p/compr...03667#koa-20-with-battery-and-charger-1003668

- KOA 20 Inflator
- AS 2 battery x1
- AL 1 standard charger
- 4 inflator attachments

Circling back to my Milwaukee, in terms of price, the M18 is about $100 more than a Stihl KOA 20 skin. So in theory, the smaller Milwaukee M12 Compact Inflator is a closer competitor — both are within $10 of one another. And yet, the M12 doesn't quite have the same performance figures as the Stihl. Which of the three you choose would probably come down to what battery ecosystem you're already in, or which you could get more value from after the initial purchase.

Stihl KOA 20 -
Max Pressure – 150 psi
Max Air Flow – 360 LPM
Run Time – 23 minutes
Noise - 77 to 90 dB(A)
Weight – 1.5 kg

Milwaukee M18 M18BI0 -
Max Pressure – 150 psi
Max Air Flow – ND
Run Time – 30 minutes (5.0Ah battery)
Noise - 96 to 97 dB(A)
Weight – 3.2 kg

Milwaukee M12 M12BI-0 -
Max Pressure – 120 psi
Max Air Flow – ND
Run Time – 10 minutes (max. duty cycle to prevent overheating)
Noise - 92 to 96 dB(A)
Weight – 1.42 kg

Looking over the machine, the KOA 20 is super lightweight, with or without the battery fitted. I also love the form factor, which has been cleverly designed to integrate storage for the attachments and the main hose. The LED light, soft touch handle grip, and rubberised feet for reduced vibration are nice touches.

The control panel is well thought out, pairing a high-quality display with simple buttons to cycle through modes, pressure levels and measurement units:

- Main power button
- Start and pause button
- Plus & minus buttons for selecting pressure
- Inflate or deflate modes
- A high-pressure mode for tyres and sports equipment
- A high-volume function for inflating or deflating camping beds, pool toys etc
- LED light activation
- Unit Measurement (BAR, PSI, KPA)
- Battery charge level
- Display for chosen pressure setting and current pressure level

For the demo, I used the KOA 20 to inspect and inflate the tyres on my fabulos XR6. Operationally, the Stihl is noticeably quieter than the M18 inflator, although at a higher pitch. The pressure settings are increased or decreased by one measurement point at a time, same as the Milwaukee. Once the desired pressure is achieved, the unit automatically stops the pump. To save power, the unit powers down after 5 minutes of inactivity. I will say, the KOA 20 takes longer to achieve the chosen pressure than the larger M18, but that's a fair trade-off for the lighter weight and overall footprint. And like the Milwaukee, it would be nice to have a quick-release chuck.



Overall, I like the lightweight and compact form factor of the KOA 20. With that in mind, it would be an ideal travel companion for road trips and caravanning. For volume inflating, I'd probably favour the M18 Milwaukee for its higher duty-cycle capability. Realistically, you will buy whatever battery system you're already invested in. But the KOA 20 is a nice piece of kit and meets my approval.

 

[Mach VII]

I have the M18 inflator and have the same wish for a quick connect option. I find the memory function useful as I have it set for my car and lawn tractor.

 

[DFB5.0]

SEA 20 Handheld Vacuum (Skin) -

I'm old enough to remember when a "Dustbuster" was a desirable must-have home appliance. When it first went on sale in January 1979, the original Black & Decker Dustbuster became the byword for compact, battery-powered handheld vacuums. It was so popular that a million were sold in its first year of production. By 1985, Black & Decker held the majority share of the battery-powered vacuum cleaner market and were selling 7 million annually. Redesigned several times, by 2019 an estimated 150 million had been sold. In 1995, the Smithsonian added a 1979 model to its collection; one is also on display at The Henry Ford museum.

I mention all this because the moment I saw the Stihl SEA 20, I immediately thought "Dustbuster". I hope that doesn't come across as a negative association — rather, it's a nod to how foundational product and brand names, like the Dustbuster, become colloquial words for everything that follows. Think Biros (ballpoint pens), Kleenex (paper tissues), Band-Aid (adhesive bandages), Jacuzzi (hot tub), Alcantara (suede-like material), Sellotape (clear adhesive tape), AstroTurf (artificial grass), Bobcat (skid-steer loader), Dremel (rotary tool), Glad Wrap (cling film), Photoshop (digital image editing), Sharpie (permanent marker), Stanley Knife (utility knife). Actually, the brand Dyson has probably inherited the Dustbuster mantle as THE handheld vacuum.

So, the Stihl Dustbuster — sorry, SEA 20 — is another take on a small, handheld, battery-powered vacuum. Based around the AS battery system, the SEA 20 was designed as a light, compact cleaning solution for smaller areas around the home, garage or worksite.

Available as a skin or in a kit with the AL-1 charger and a single AS-2 battery. In my case, I was sent the skin.

https://www.stihl.com.au/en/p/wet-d...a-20-handheld-vacuum-cleaner-skin-only-146275

The SEA 20 is a bagless machine that features 2-stage filtration, consisting of a heavy-duty paper filter cone surrounded by a washable pre-filter cage. It also has a non-return flap to prevent dirt flowing back out of the collection chamber, with a rubber seal surrounding the container itself. The handle features a rubberized soft-grip, a locking throttle, and an LED charge indicator display.

The machine ships with the following accessories:

- Crevice nozzle
- Extension tube
- Brush attachment
- Expandable extension hose (from 0.5 to 1.5 metres)
- Storage bag

Volumetric Flow – 20 l/s (42 cf/min)
Max Run Time – 14 minutes
Container Volume – 0.8 litres
Weight – 1.1 kg

Naturally, this little vacuum will be used for detailing. At present, I use two vacuums, dependent on the level of filth needing to be removed. For interiors needing a decent clean, I use a Karcher WD6 Premium. This machine certainly sucks, in a good way, but it's bulky to wrangle around the car. On my own vehicles, I rarely need such potency, so a smaller handheld vacuum is more than sufficient.

Now, you'd assume a Dyson would be ideal for handheld duties — but absolutely not. While I have one in the house, and have used many others, these are just not suitable for car detailing. Actually, in my opinion Dysons are grossly overpriced and almost totally useless outside of cleaning hard flooring. Yes, you can get car cleaning kits for them, but that doesn't solve some of the issues I have with Dysons. The Milwaukee M18 (M18CV0) cordless vacuum I run in this role is hardly a leader in suction, but for quick cleanups, its more than capable. And with the hose attachment, it's actually usable for car interiors. Not to mention the robust Milwaukee battery architecture, far better than any Dyson.

Ideally, I would install a wall-mounted vacuum system to solve pretty much every compromise with the two above. However, I've put that on hold for the moment — but watch this space.

The first thing to note with the SEA 20 is how much lighter and better packaged it is compared to the Milwaukee M18. With the supplied extension hose, common to both Stihl and Milwaukee, you can genuinely use it for car cleaning. Without it, you just cannot get the nozzle to where it needs to be, especially footwells and between seats. Considering it has a smaller footprint, the Stihl is easier to handle when used like this. In operation, the SEA 20 is noticeably quieter than the M18 too.

The collection container is emptied by pressing the release tab and levering downward. The outer gauze filter cage can be removed and cleaned; the inner paper filter can be tapped or blown out when needed. Stihl also sell replacement paper filters at dealers for only $10.

Stihl also sell a mini nozzle kit for the SEA 20, which includes additional brush attachments, a mini crevice tool, a hose extension, adaptor piece, and storage bag.

Filming and photographing interior work is quite difficult, especially without someone helping take the images or when both hands are required to on the job. Lighting is a challenge too. So, no video with this one.

Are you going to clean a disaster car interior with the SEA 20? Realistically, no. But for quick cleanups, it's preferable to dragging out your shop or home vac. I also love that it's more compact and lighter than my Milwaukee.

 

[Midnight Menace]

First a little backstory. I have been detailing since I was about 15, washing my parent's cars............. not for pocket money, but for fun! When I got my own car, I really started to get into it as a hobby. I would ration products because I was poor, at 18 I could only dream of some of the stuff I have today. It took until my late 20’s to realize the benefits detailing had on my mental health. When the pandemic hit in early 2020, I suddenly had a lot more time on my hands and I doubled down on expanding my skills and product knowledge, it ended up being my savior during those uncertain times. I guess like a lot of people during the height of the pandemic, my online ordering skills became a precisely tuned machine! I also started to detail other people’s cars to make some extra cash.

So 20 years of detailing as a hobby and occasional professional, I have started to loose count on what products I have. Well, I actually have a spreadsheet listing every product, tool, pads and towels I have or have had. So, you could say I have been around the block a few times. And yet, I still haven’t even scratched the surface of what’s available to detailers these days. After a lot of trial and error, this is a list of products I grab the most often. I will also state that I have no connection to any brand or supplier.

This list will exclude polishing compounds, waxes, sealants and coatings. That will perhaps come later, those categories seem to be more personal preference than the maintenance products I will detail below. Same story with towels and tools. Also, I normally provide links to each product, in this case I will let the reader do their own search due to the multi-national nature of this particular forum.

Wash Soap –

(I used all of these in both the foam cannon and in the bucket.)

CarPro Reset – My favourite soap. This is an expensive product for a reason, it’s top of the class for slickness, cleaning ability, foam quality and scent. Reset is pH neutral and was designed primarily for ceramic coatings but can also be used on other LSP’s with the caution it will speed up the degradation of waxes and sealants. Pours easily.

NV Snow – A pH neutral product that can be used in the sun safely, smells pleasant and foams exceptionally well. This is a runnier liquid that pours easily

Koch Chemie GSF – This is a brilliant pH neutral soap. Slickness and scent are it’s hallmarks.

Wildcard –

CarPro Descale – Again, a soap designed for ceramic coatings. It’s primary use is for reviving a clogged or water-spotted ceramic coating. I also use it as a strip wash in preparation for a new coating of wax or sealant. Worth having either way.

Water-less / Rinse-less Washing -

Optimum No Rinse / ONR – Just a good all-rounder. I use this mainly when cleaning door jambs, engine bays and interiors.

McKee’s N914 – I use this product for rinse-less washing, it has a more pleasant scent than ONR.

Drying Aids –

Obsessed Garage Drying Aid / Extreme Solutions Topper / Adams Slick and Slide – Save for color and scent, these are all the same products. This is very easy and forgiving to use. It’s a Si02 based product that will add to existing protection, provide lubrication and increase gloss.

P&S Bead Maker – The gloss and slickness this product adds is addictive. Some may say it’s overhyped, but it certainly does what it says on the bottle.

Meguiar’s Hybrid Ceramic Detailer – I have only recently started using this, but it impressed me immediately with its ease of use.

Wildcard –

P&S Paint Gloss – This is a traditional “detail spray”. It contains no protection but is exceptional for gloss and lubrication. I also use it for interior dusting and as a clay lubricant.

Decontamination / Bug & Tar Removers –

CarPro Bug-Out and Koch Chemie Insect and Dirt Remover – I find most of these products are quite similar in smell and their ability to soften and remove bugs. Toss a coin.

CarPro TarX and Koch Chemie TEA – Again, very similar products, both also ideal for removing adhesive.

CarPro IronX and P&S Iron Buster – Either of these would be used for iron decontamination of both bodywork, glass and wheels.

Wildcard –

Koch Chemie Eu Eulex – This something not available in Australia, but I wish it was. This is next level aggression in tar and adhesive removal. Use with caution.

Koch-Chemie - Eulex | The Rag Company

Wheel and Tire Cleaners –

(I really only use two wheel cleaners on my own cars as I tend to use soap instead in most cases.)

NV Purge – This is pH neutral wheel cleaner that reacts to iron particles. This has an impressive ability to remove as much grime as possible without agitation. While it’s scented, it still smells pretty bad like all iron-removers.

P&S Brake Buster – This is a high alkaline cleaner that can be used diluted or undiluted, foamed or un-foamed. Can be used to clean wheels as well as tyres and wheel arches. I don't bother diluting it, I want the added power if I'm reaching for a wheel cleaner.

Wildcard-
Shine Supply Wise Guy - I use this primarily for deep cleaning tires but it can be also used to clean wheels. It's pretty harsh so I tend grab this as a last resort.

Tire Dressings –

(I tend to only use water based dressings, these are less likely to sling onto the body compared to solvent based products.)

NV Onyx – This is a very nice product to use. It applies easily, smells lovely and leaves a satin sheen once dried.

CarPro Perl – So versatile as it can be used on engine bays, exterior trim and interiors. It can also be diluted to achieve the desired finish. I use it straight from the bottle as I like a little more sheen.

DuraGloss 253 – This is a runner liquid, much like Perl would be when diluted. It spreads easily, especially useful on chunky truck tires. This product also seems to last a touch longer during wet conditions.

Wildcard –

Gyeon Q2 Tire – This is a solvent based Si02 infused dressing that offers more longevity than the above products. Apply thinly and evenly as it will otherwise sling.

Exterior and Interior Plastic Dressings –

303 Aerospace Protectant – An oldie but a goody. This stuff leaves plastics with a matte finish and seems to apply easier than other similar products. I mostly use it on interior plastics, but I also use it on engine bays.

Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing – Another proven product that seems to fly under the radar. I use it to spruce up wheel arches and as an engine bay dressing. It can also be used on tires.

Koch Chemie Motorplast – Like Hyper Dressing, this can be used on wet surfaces, mostly for engines bays.

Koch-Chemie - Motorplast | The Rag Company

Leather Trim / Fabric Trim and Interior Cleaning –

Colourlock Strong/Mild Leather Cleaner & Leather Protector – Great for cleaning, then protecting automotive leather. These products leave leather with a matte, OE finish.

Koch Chemie PO Pol Star – This is used to clean carpet, cloth and Alcantara trim, leather too. Very versatile and dilutable to suit. Unlike APC's, Pol Star is pH neutral meaning it's more gentle on sensitive surfaces.

P&S Express – Great product for cleaning and dusting interior surfaces. For me, this has basically replaced APC for interior work.

Wildcard –

CarPro InnerQD – A product for quick wipe overs, dusting ect. Can also be used on info screens and gauge clusters without streaking. Smells great.

MISC -

(These are worth having on hand)

CarPro Eraser – A prep spray for new waxes/sealants/coatings. Also doubles as a glass cleaner.

Meguiar’s M39 Heavy Duty Vinyl Cleaner – You wont use this often, but it’s great for deep cleaning unpainted exterior plastics and rubber, think windshield wiper scuttle or door rubbers. Will remove polish staining on black trims.

CarPro Spotless – Water spots are always a possibility, having this in the cabinet has saved me a couple of times.

P21S Polishing Soap – You won’t use this often but as a way of cleaning and polishing exhaust tips, there is nothing like it on the market.

Glass Cleaners –

Stoners Invisible Glass – A solid performer, probably the best on the market. Tint safe.

P&S True Vue – This can be had in RTU form or as a concentrate. You can dilute this product from 4:1 out to 10:1 depending on the season or level of performance needed. Tint safe.

Gyeon Q2M Glass – A solid performer and tint safe.

Wildcard –

Angelwax Vision – This stuff not a product you want to be using every time, it’s very harsh in use and smell. This has a small percentage of ammonia in its formulation and while they state that it’s tint safe, I would use with caution. Particularly useful for cleaning neglected glass.

All-Purpose-Cleaner -

Koch Chemie GS Green Star - I rarely use APC in general but Green Star is one of the better ones. This product is dilutable depending on cleaning needs. It also foams well, as such I occasionally add some to GSF to boost it's cleaning ability on filthy customer cars.

That covers the products I use for maintaining vehicles. As mentioned, waxes/sealants/coatings in all shapes and forms are another story entirely. As would towels and correcting products.

What would you recommend for deep cleaning some gunk off interior. I have 2 areas of concern, the headliner has some deep dirt that I can seem to get to come off but I don't want to damage it by rubbing to hard and my flip down sun visors someone used black duct tape to hide the warning/saftey labels but the tape is starting to peel on the edges and I'm unsure how to remove/clean it without damage. I can grab some photos in a little bit to show what I mean

 

[DFB5.0]

You have to be careful with headliners, I've never dared touch them. Check out the below video.



With the sun visors, are they fabric or plastic/vinyl? To remove adhesive residue, you need a solvent, which you'd need to be careful with on either fabric or plastic.

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