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What fmic should i get??????

stasg11

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I i have a 2016 ecoboost with a few mods
Airade intake
Muffler/resonator delete
Cobb of shelf tune (havent got a custom one ue2t trying to find a good one )
New staggered 20's so i could throw a 305 tire in the back
And tons of visual mods

I am at the point that i need a downpipe and a intercooler
But everyone is telling me i need a intercooler first
My thing is i dont know which one there are just so many on the market from large and small companies
Plus im hearing depending on the fmic turbo lag and other.....

Can u guys tell me some of your experiences with fmic
Power gains any downsides?

can take all info i can get
Thanks guys
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Chef jpd

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Glenn G

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:amen:He's Right,

But if you don't feel like reading through the whole thread,

Peak Numbers will not gain much, but The stocker would be pulling power on mine by the top of 4th when I first got the car, Charge air temps were 130+ on an 80deg day.

With just the MAP street IC the top end of the car was radically different, you will no longer be pulling power after one pull.

Any of the stock location units will be fine for a street application, The only one I have reservations about is the Mishimoto as i heard some bad things about flow and quality, but still miles better than stock (I have never seen one in in person so it's all second hand)
the stand outs for the stock location intercoolers are MAP and CPE Both are amazing quality and the logs prove it.

I upgraded to the MAP Race core and noticed very little difference from the street core on the autobahn, those will only show their strength if you are doing heavy track work, which I don't Sustained 150mph+ runs for me show the stock location units are more than good enough. Other peoples data on the larger FMICs indicates the same thing. If I had to do it again, I would keep the street core for the more OEM look, and saved a few hundred dollars, you simply cannot use the extra cooling capacity on the stock block. I may still switch back and sell the race core to someone who can really use it.

The Only downside is a dealer can try to be a pain on warranty issues if they notice (more likely on the race cores) Since you haven't done a down-pipe it is really easy to return to stock for warranty work, but seeing a big old intercooler might make the dealer dig into the ecu to see if you have been tuned, I personally know 2 people who flashed back to stock with the AP (one warped head + headgasket and one transmission) and heard not a peep from either of the dealers about the tune, Both had stock location inter coolers and the dealers said nothing about those either. The engine with the bad head got replaced entirely. I have read on here about dealers refusing warranty work on a CAI alone.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the vendors on here. and having a frank discussion with the head of your local dealers service department about how the intercooler might affect their decision to honor your warranty is wise before you go that route.

If I were not about to pass the 36000 mile mark I might have bought the FP tune just as security. the dealer cannot tell if the ECU has been flashed returning to stock on the Cobb AP by UN-marrying it, they CAN tell if the number of starts does not match the millage.

I believe @jbailer found a document which tells you exactly how the dealers look for mods

If i am wrong please let me know i want to give credit where credit is due/
 

jbailer

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stasg11

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:amen:He's Right,

But if you don't feel like reading through the whole thread,

Peak Numbers will not gain much, but The stocker would be pulling power on mine by the top of 4th when I first got the car, Charge air temps were 130+ on an 80deg day.

With just the MAP street IC the top end of the car was radically different, you will no longer be pulling power after one pull.

Any of the stock location units will be fine for a street application, The only one I have reservations about is the Mishimoto as i heard some bad things about flow and quality, but still miles better than stock (I have never seen one in in person so it's all second hand)
the stand outs for the stock location intercoolers are MAP and CPE Both are amazing quality and the logs prove it.

I upgraded to the MAP Race core and noticed very little difference from the street core on the autobahn, those will only show their strength if you are doing heavy track work, which I don't Sustained 150mph+ runs for me show the stock location units are more than good enough. Other peoples data on the larger FMICs indicates the same thing. If I had to do it again, I would keep the street core for the more OEM look, and saved a few hundred dollars, you simply cannot use the extra cooling capacity on the stock block. I may still switch back and sell the race core to someone who can really use it.

The Only downside is a dealer can try to be a pain on warranty issues if they notice (more likely on the race cores) Since you haven't done a down-pipe it is really easy to return to stock for warranty work, but seeing a big old intercooler might make the dealer dig into the ecu to see if you have been tuned, I personally know 2 people who flashed back to stock with the AP (one warped head + headgasket and one transmission) and heard not a peep from either of the dealers about the tune, Both had stock location inter coolers and the dealers said nothing about those either. The engine with the bad head got replaced entirely. I have read on here about dealers refusing warranty work on a CAI alone.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the vendors on here. and having a frank discussion with the head of your local dealers service department about how the intercooler might affect their decision to honor your warranty is wise before you go that route.

If I were not about to pass the 36000 mile mark I might have bought the FP tune just as security. the dealer cannot tell if the ECU has been flashed returning to stock on the Cobb AP by UN-marrying it, they CAN tell if the number of starts does not match the millage.

I believe @jbailer found a document which tells you exactly how the dealers look for mods

If i am wrong please let me know i want to give credit where credit is due/
So should i look for more of a short and fat one over tall and narrow to potentially avoid dealer problems
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