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@Rinzler, how difficult was it to install the rear valence? thanks.Installed the Ikon Motorsports GT500 rear valence. LOVE the look! Much more aggressive than the PP1 one.
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@Rinzler, how difficult was it to install the rear valence? thanks.Installed the Ikon Motorsports GT500 rear valence. LOVE the look! Much more aggressive than the PP1 one.
There are 4 plastic mounting posts going thru 4 holes in the panel. To take it off, remove the panel and grind down the posts, and it will pop off.So.... How hard is it going to be? Please tell me there aren't going to be mounting holes from that emblem.
Yes a Very Subjective topic.for sure... lol..lol.. I Started with the resonator delete Roush X pipe, just recently changed out to the Steeds H, running stock axle backs. Like the more muscle sound of the H. Tomorrow Ruby gets Borla S Type Axle backs installed.I'll jump in here for a minute lol
X pipes are more raspy and high pitched on high rpms. H pipes are more muscle car, but can still get high pitched on high rpms without the resonator.
A resonator delete is louder, but not to crazy. There's actually a video already on YouTube that measures db's with an h pipe. An x will be slightly louder. Might be a video with an x too. Some people switch to x pipes only to switch back to h and vice versa. Just a matter of preference.
No welding. Just cut and clamp.
I went h pipe but wasn't loud enough for me so I changed to a full catback with an x.
Yes the little small piece is actually a little further back at the top left where it meets the top long piece. With all the other poorly aligned parts on the car, (back seats in center top are much different height left vs right, and drivers door gap at latch side, etc, etc) I'll learn to live with it.Good to hear, but did you check the fit of the upper little part next to the glovebox? I could bet my house it's not flush with the upper long dash piece where the gauges are. I had to install a small screw to the tab that holds the metal clip of the upper part of the small piece, and after some trial and error, left it perfectly aligned again. There's no way that flimsy piece of plastic didn't deform if you pulled on that part. I actually didn't pull until the clip dislodged; pulled until I had enough space to insert a thin trim tool and not damage it even more. Curious what you find. That part should be solidly seated against the back of the dash, with no gap, meaning you shouldn't be able to push on it and it moving.
Did you know if you bearl and earster in Earl, you'll spearl the poil?Changed the Earl. In case anyone didn't know, Costco has Mobil1 full synth 5w-20. Comes in 6-quart cases.
Even a deaf person would .Can you hear the difference between the old horn ('19) and new horn ('18)?
Aftermarket from Ikon MotorsportsGood to hear, but did you check the fit of the upper little part next to the glovebox? I could bet my house it's not flush with the upper long dash piece where the gauges are. I had to install a small screw to the tab that holds the metal clip of the upper part of the small piece, and after some trial and error, left it perfectly aligned again. There's no way that flimsy piece of plastic didn't deform if you pulled on that part. I actually didn't pull until the clip dislodged; pulled until I had enough space to insert a thin trim tool and not damage it even more. Curious what you find. That part should be solidly seated against the back of the dash, with no gap, meaning you shouldn't be able to push on it and it moving.
Oh, and I changed the guts of the gauges into mine, so they look just like they came from the factory that way, since the housing and bezel are the factory ones from my car. And they worked, thankfully. So thank you again for posting that eBay ad .
Looks great indeed. But may I ask you if it's a genuine Ford item, or an aftermarket one? If Ford, how much did you pay, and from who? It looks like it'd fit my Bullitt just fine. I don't like the one it has now; at least the GT ones have an extra brace. Mine is plain as hell. Thanks man.