What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

[StangTime]

Due to finally completing the install of Steeda minimum drop springs, Ford Performance track struts, BMR cradle lock out and Steeda subframe bushings, had to get an alignment today. (I already had the Ford Perf track dampers in the rear but had to remove them for the spring swap.)
The performance shop was booked solid for 3 weeks so I took a chance going to the Ford dealer instead. I talked directly to the tech doing the alignment and told him it was lowered and he agreed to clock the bushings. Assuming he actually did that. My alignment wasn't too bad going in. I was surprised given all the pushing and pulling I did to get the subframe aligned. Just really bad toe setting on the drivers side. The tech told me after that he tried to adjust the rear passenger toe to match the drivers side but couldn't for some reason. I honestly don't think he tried and just fixed the front toe and called it done. For street driving and highway cruising I think the numbers are ok. Could be better but the car handles extremely well on the street and highways.

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[Ock]

I love this... sooo happy...lol.

 

[16Fastback]

What do you use all the furniture polish for? Some kinda detailing secret?

Spray on the tires makes them black without all the oily mess.old school 60's detail.

 

[DrZed]

Due to finally completing the install of Steeda minimum drop springs, Ford Performance track struts, BMR cradle lock out and Steeda subframe bushings, had to get an alignment today. (I already had the Ford Perf track dampers in the rear but had to remove them for the spring swap.)
The performance shop was booked solid for 3 weeks so I took a chance going to the Ford dealer instead. I talked directly to the tech doing the alignment and told him it was lowered and he agreed to clock the bushings. Assuming he actually did that. My alignment wasn't too bad going in. I was surprised given all the pushing and pulling I did to get the subframe aligned. Just really bad toe setting on the drivers side. The tech told me after that he tried to adjust the rear passenger toe to match the drivers side but couldn't for some reason. I honestly don't think he tried and just fixed the front toe and called it done. For street driving and highway cruising I think the numbers are ok. Could be better but the car handles extremely well on the street and highways.

... now that you have the toe sorted, you can drive out to Brighton and get somebody to do what you want.

 

[Hoose71]

This was my project today, like the look much better.

 

[rxryanm]

Got my ET Street Rs delivered yesterday (and got a weight measurement cuz I know you guys like those - 31lbs on the nose). Cannot wait to get the front runners in, get them installed, and go huck this thing down the track.

This was my project today, like the look much better.

I've had more than one person ask me about my manual car after I made this change lol.

 

[Tib]

Loaded up the custom tune onto the SCT BDX...now to install the parts and load tune.

 

[GTP]

Made me a cradle lowering kit.

I cut up a 1m length of 14mmx2.0 allthread from McMaster into 4 lengths of 10" each. I used an old Workmate to hold the rods and a battery powered saw. I ground the ends real nice. I chose the lowest strength steel because these are only used as a temporary tool.I I sourced the nuts and washers locally to save overall cost.
Took under an hour.

I plan to use these to lower the cradle enough to get the front diff insert bolts installed. Another benefit is that the cradle will raise with each bolt hole lined up when replacing the blue bolts.

 

[TrackMustang]

Made me a cradle lowering kit.

I cut up a 1m length of 14mmx2.0 allthread from McMaster into 4 lengths of 10" each. I used an old Workmate to hold the rods and a battery powered saw. I ground the ends real nice. I chose the lowest strength steel because these are only used as a temporary tool.I I sourced the nuts and washers locally to save overall cost.
Took under an hour.

I plan to use these to lower the cradle enough to get the front diff insert bolts installed. Another benefit is that the cradle will raise with each bolt hole lined up when replacing the blue bolts.

So the intent is that you replace the stock bolts, presumably one at a time, and then when you back the bolts out enough to really lower the cradle but the bolts won’t fully come out..? Then tighten the bolts, which raises the cradle and then replace the bolts again one at a time, back to the OEM bolts?

 

[StangTime]

That's some serious poke goin' on.

 

[rxryanm]

That's some serious poke goin' on.

I can squat the rear as much as I want and no fender clearance issues now!

 

[GTP]

So the intent is that you replace the stock bolts, presumably one at a time, and then when you back the bolts out enough to really lower the cradle but the bolts won’t fully come out..? Then tighten the bolts, which raises the cradle and then replace the bolts again one at a time, back to the OEM bolts?

Almost correct. The studs are to accurately guide the cradle up or down. But the jack is what raises or lowers the cradle.

So it's:
Raise Jack under diff to support it.
Exchange the bolts for studs. Slowly lower diff with jack.
Put in my mod.
Raise diff with jack.
Exchange studs for bolts and torque them.

I just hope I don't have to fight with the alignment sleeves on the way back up.

 

[TrackMustang]

Almost correct. The studs are to accurately guide the cradle up or down. But the jack is what raises or lowers the cradle.

So it's:
Raise Jack under diff to support it.
Exchange the bolts for studs. Slowly lower diff with jack.
Put in my mod.
Raise diff with jack.
Exchange studs for bolts and torque them.

I just hope I don't have to fight with the alignment sleeves on the way back up.

Ahhhh, I like that. I love seeing people find their own solutions for stuff. Well done.

 

[StangTime]

Almost correct. The studs are to accurately guide the cradle up or down. But the jack is what raises or lowers the cradle.

So it's:
Raise Jack under diff to support it.
Exchange the bolts for studs. Slowly lower diff with jack.
Put in my mod.
Raise diff with jack.
Exchange studs for bolts and torque them.

I just hope I don't have to fight with the alignment sleeves on the way back up.

The threads could end up marring the alignment sleeves as the cradle gets raised and lowered. That could be problem depending on how many times you do it and how you are jacking it.
Also, the alignment sleeves, will come out of the holes. There's not much friction holding them in. Mine easily moved up and down and even fell out upon removing a sub-frame bolt.

 

[GTP]

Ahhhh, I like that. I love seeing people find their own solutions for stuff. Well done.

It was Kelly's (KellTrac) idea originally I believe. His HW is strong enough to leave them in and are shorter than mine.

The threads could end up marring the alignment sleeves as the cradle gets raised and lowered. That could be problem depending on how many times you do it and how you are jacking it.
Also, the alignment sleeves, will come out of the holes. There's not much friction holding them in. Mine easily moved up and down and even fell out upon removing a sub-frame bolt.

Grinding of the inside of the sleeves won't bother me. Honestly I wish my sleeves WOULD fall out. IMO they are toleranced too tight and have caused me grief in the past. 0.010" more clearance at the OD won't throw the alignment off.

I will report back how it goes.

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