Washing/Waxing/Detailing

[TTT12]

Hi Trent. Thought that I would let know that all Gyeon products are available from Car Care Products down at Murrarie near the Gateway. Some are even available from Repco.

Thank you for the heads up Peter.

Sponsored

 

[BruceTheQuail]

washing the car with the music going



The artist is Klangphonics by the way, they are really good but every so often do techno without computers, and use a vacuum cleaner or something

 

[tuf50L]

@DFB5.0 wouldn't mind your input on this.
I'm picking up a 2023 from the dealer next month.

My plan at the moment when I get the car home is:

- CarPro Descale (foam cannon)
- CarPro IronX Snow Soap (foam cannon)
- Clay bar with NV Purity
- Panel prep with NV Clarity
- NV Lustre and NV Nova Jet combo sealants

Maintenance washes will just be NV Snow/NV Boost.

I don't have the skills or equipment for mechanical polishing.
Not entirely sure whether to treat the interior or just maintain with CarPro InnerQD.

Anything I'm missing?

 

[DFB5.0]

@DFB5.0 wouldn't mind your input on this.
I'm picking up a 2023 from the dealer next month.

My plan at the moment when I get the car home is:

- CarPro Descale (foam cannon)
- CarPro IronX Snow Soap (foam cannon)
- Clay bar with NV Purity
- Panel prep with NV Clarity
- NV Lustre and NV Nova Jet combo sealants

Maintenance washes will just be NV Snow/NV Boost.

I don't have the skills or equipment for mechanical polishing.
Not entirely sure whether to treat the interior or just maintain with CarPro InnerQD.

Anything I'm missing?

You plan is sound, save for a couple of points -

I would eliminate IronX Snow Soap, NV Purify has an iron remover in it so you would be doubling up. Actually, you could look at this in two ways -

1/Because you are not polishing, perhaps consider not using the clay bar. In which case, use either of IronX Soap or Purify. I would favor Purify as its more concentrated and therefore effective.

2/Use the clay bar with Purify, but because you won't be polishing, take it easy. I would favor a clay towel/mitt/pad over a traditional clay bar in this case as well.
Waxit Clay Block Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care
Get Waxit Clay Mitt Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care

If you haven't already bought it, I would swap NV Clarity for Carpro Eraser. I find Clarity too grabby, where Eraser has a nicer feel to it.
Get CarPro Eraser Prep Spray | Waxit – Waxit Car Care

Lustre topped with Jet is an awesome combination. As you say, maintain with Snow and Boost or Boost v2.

I don't really "dress" an interior much any more, just maintain them with something like InnerQD (fantastic product with a mild amount of UV protection and NO gloss). If you like applying a more substantial interior (plastic) dressing, try Koch Chemie Top Star or 303 Protectant.
Koch Chemie Top Star Interior Plastic Trim Cleaner - 1L – The Detail Store

For leather, look at NV Cleanse (cleaner) and NV Nourish. I don't like leather balms or creams, they look and feel greasy and do nothing for coated leather in cars. Nourish leaves a soft, natural matte finish with a very easy application. It also works on the Mustang's combination of coated leather and vinyl.
Get NV Cleanse | Leather Cleaner Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care
Get NV Nourish | Leather QD | Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care

 

[tuf50L]

Thanks mate. I really appreciate it.
No, haven’t purchased yet, will do over the weekend.

I’ll see if I can feel what condition the paint is in before deciding whether the clay bar is necessary and use Purify either way.

Will swap to CarPro Eraser and stick to just the InnerQD. I like interiors feeling factory and untreated.

 

[DFB5.0]

Thanks mate. I really appreciate it.
No, haven’t purchased yet, will do over the weekend.

I’ll see if I can feel what condition the paint is in before deciding whether the clay bar is necessary and use Purify either way.

Will swap to CarPro Eraser and stick to just the InnerQD. I like interiors feeling factory and untreated.

Waxit have Purify and their clay towel as a package deal at the moment.
Get Waxit Aero Clay Cloth Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care

Eraser will also double as a window cleaner as well.

InnerQD does have a strong lemon scent, which I like but you may not want to introduce on your brand-new car (they only smell like that once). If that matters to you, I like using ONR diluted at 16:1 as it has a less noticeable scent and is very gentle on all surfaces (leather, plastic, screens), without imparting glossiness.

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine ONR (236ml/946ml/3.8L) *New Formula* (detailingshed.com.au)

 

[Drewbo]

My regime, whilst nothing nearing the fastidiousness of @DFB5.0, usually takes around 3.5 hours starting with the initial pressure rinse and snow foaming.

 

[Bulutt]

Have found a number of glowing reviews about Polish Angle Cosmic Spritz. Looking for a new topper so am thinking of buying Cosmic Spritz or Gyeon CanCoat Evo or the new Carpro Reload 2. Anyone have experience with the Polish Angle? I have been using NV Lustre and am not unhappy with it, just looking at how other products might perform in comparison. Thanks

 

[DFB5.0]

Have found a number of glowing reviews about Polish Angle Cosmic Spritz. Looking for a new topper so am thinking of buying Cosmic Spritz or Gyeon CanCoat Evo or the new Carpro Reload 2. Anyone have experience with the Polish Angle? I have been using NV Lustre and am not unhappy with it, just looking at how other products might perform in comparison. Thanks

What is your base layer coating that you are wanting to top?

While it can be, I wouldn't use Can Coat for that role and would favor Reload 2.0 or the Cosmic Spritz.

 

[Bulutt]

What is your base layer coating that you are wanting to top?

While it can be, I wouldn't use Can Coat for that role and would favor Reload 2.0 or the Cosmic Spritz.

Going to polish the paint to get everything old off but not sure what I will use as a base. Maybe just use one of them as a stand alone and redo every month. With a spray that is easy. Why don’t you like the CanCoat?

 

[DFB5.0]

Going to polish the paint to get everything old off but not sure what I will use as a base. Maybe just use one of them as a stand alone and redo every month. With a spray that is easy. Why don’t you like the CanCoat?

Ah, I get you now. I thought you were going to use those to put on top of an existing coating, hence the term "topper" (no, not that kind of topping! ).

In that case, Gyeon Can Coat would be my number one choice, I definitely DO like that product.

Can Coat EVO will give you 12 months of protection, compared to 6 months or less for Reload. Applications are actually very similar between the two, although you do need to be more vigilant with the wipe off when using Can Coat as it can leave high spots. However, for a wipe on, wipe off spray coating, the performance of Can Coat is very, very hard to beat.

I have applied Can Coat EVO a few times, documented here -

(Post #130) -
What's In DFB's Cabinet? | Page 9 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

Holiday Project Four - Decontamination, Polishing & Coating a Ranger Wildrack | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

A couple of Can Coat Tips -

-DO NOT skip the IPA/Gyeon Prep/Carpro Eraser wipe down. Be thorough. (I have seen Can Coat fail prematurely because of this step not being taken seriously.)

- I prefer to use a microfiber brick for application compared to Gyeon's supplied towel. This is easier to manage compared to a folded towel.

-DO NOT spray the product directly onto the car.

-DO NOT spray the product into the applicator/brick close to the car. Walk away from the car before spraying. Overspray will cause high spots.

-You don't need to wait for the coating to "flash", wipe it on and wipe it off straight away.

-You will need less than you think. Two to three sprays per panel or section is all you need, to the point where it will feel like you are not using enough. Trust me, this is normal and doesn't compromise the finished result. For larger panels like the enormous Mustang hood, split that into sections.

-After use, run clean water (or even IPA/Gyeon Prep) through the sprayer head. Gyeon actually supply three of these with the kit, but if you are coating multiple cars, it's good practice to just clean them.

You may find Can Coat lacking a little slickness, this is normal and a characteristic of the coating. If you want to amp the slickness, apply a layer of the Comic Spritz, Reload 2.0 or even Gyeon Cure. The best thing about Can Coat, apart from the easy application, is the water behavior when it rains or when you wash the car.

 

[Bulutt]

Ah, I get you now. I thought you were going to use those to put on top of an existing coating, hence the term "topper" (no, not that kind of topping! ).

In that case, Gyeon Can Coat would be my number one choice, I definitely DO like that product.

Can Coat EVO will give you 12 months of protection, compared to 6 months or less for Reload. Applications are actually very similar between the two, although you do need to be more vigilant with the wipe off when using Can Coat as it can leave high spots. However, for a wipe on, wipe off spray coating, the performance of Can Coat is very, very hard to beat.

I have applied Can Coat EVO a few times, documented here -

(Post #130) -
What's In DFB's Cabinet? | Page 9 | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

Holiday Project Four - Decontamination, Polishing & Coating a Ranger Wildrack | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

A couple of Can Coat Tips -

-DO NOT skip the IPA/Gyeon Prep/Carpro Eraser wipe down. Be thorough. (I have seen Can Coat fail prematurely because of this step not being taken seriously.)

- I prefer to use a microfiber brick for application compared to Gyeon's supplied towel. This is easier to manage compared to a folded towel.

-DO NOT spray the product directly onto the car.

-DO NOT spray the product into the applicator/brick close to the car. Walk away from the car before spraying. Overspray will cause high spots.

-You don't need to wait for the coating to "flash", wipe it on and wipe it off straight away.

-You will need less than you think. Two to three sprays per panel or section is all you need, to the point where it will feel like you are not using enough. Trust me, this is normal and doesn't compromise the finished result. For larger panels like the enormous Mustang hood, split that into sections.

-After use, run clean water (or even IPA/Gyeon Prep) through the sprayer head. Gyeon actually supply three of these with the kit, but if you are coating multiple cars, it's good practice to just clean them.

You may find Can Coat lacking a little slickness, this is normal and a characteristic of the coating. If you want to amp the slickness, apply a layer of the Comic Spritz, Reload 2.0 or even Gyeon Cure. The best thing about Can Coat, apart from the easy application, is the water behavior when it rains or when you wash the car.

Thanks. Appreciate the advice. If I did want to top a coating, why would you not use CanCot? Polish Angle better for that?

 

[ecumkh]

OK wanted to show off my work and my process. Thanks to @DFB5.0 for all of the threads and information you post as I have lurked for a while and looking for +100 on the gloss meter (dont have one but if this work doesnt get me there . . . well)

OK. Here was process and products used:

Wash: Used Chemical Guys Cleaner wax (they say takes off previous waxes and sealants) and for the most part it does:

Then used Chemical Guys Iron Remover on the paint and wheels of the car. No good pics as there was not much iron and only a little purple but nothing of significance.

Then used Mothers Clay block as first attack on contaminants using just soap and bucket:

Sun was only out for a little while so no issue with drying soap on the surface of the car and the temp was about 73f. A very nice day to detail a car.

Then dried car off in the garage and began working on the panels and preparing to polish the surface.

The next thing I do is the "plastic bag" test looking for areas that need more decon. This test really works and if its rough I know I have to take the clay bar to it.

Areas around the vents where stuff and accumulate are perfect places for things to stick to the paint. I used a Megiuars Clay Bar and Quick Detailer to remove these contaminants.

Next I prepared the surface for polish using the Gyeon Prep. I like this stuff a lot and think it was very useful in ensuring the surface was ready to go:

Next came polishing. I polished each panel of the car using Sonax Perfect Finish using a DA polisher set on 5.5 and different pads depending on how much I need to cut vs finish. Perfect Finish can do both so if I had some areas of swirls (Which I didn't have too much) I would use a more aggressive pad other wise I used a finishing pad.

For the smaller areas I picked up the Max Shine Mini Polisher. The back panel was driving me nuts cause I felt like I could not get a good polish on it:

Yes that is a couple years of neglect and washing and wiping and black paint. I know its kind of embarrassing but it is corrected now and can be properly maintained.

Another round of Gyeon Prep and I was ready for some new stuff.

In my research I came across some Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz and read the reviews and people really like it. Well I found out that you can get some that is now "color matched" not sure how much of a gimmick it is but they got me. Took my money:

Its a two step process of putting down the what they call the Polish Angel Invincible Primer and then (2) coats of Comic Spritz. One thing I like about it is that you can use it as a drying aid as well when you wash and it maintains the glossy look. We will see.

First Step: Invincible Primer

It went down easy and came off easy and seemed to be like another pass of a finishing product so I liked that. I used the DA with blue finishing pad and did the sections around the car. They say that you have about 8 hours to then apply the Spritz.

Next Step: Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz formulated for Dark Highland Green

It comes out of the bottle as Green but as Dark Highland Green (idk). Either way it went on very easy by hand all the way aorund the car. It took me about 30 mins to make it around the car and I waited 2 hours and did a second coat and then allow to cure for the night

Results: Pics dont do justice let me say . . .

Recap on Process:
- Wash
- Decon (Iron Remover)
- Wash
- Decon (Contamination Remover)
- Inspect
- Clay Bar
- Prep (Gyeon Prep)
- Polish (Sonax Perfect Finish)
- Prep (Gyeon Prep)
- Polish Angel Invincible Primer
- Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz (2 Coats)
- Cure overnight

Hope this helps. Thanks to everyone who has posted their processes. Very helpful.

 

[DFB5.0]

OK wanted to show off my work and my process. Thanks to @DFB5.0 for all of the threads and information you post as I have lurked for a while and looking for +100 on the gloss meter (dont have one but if this work doesnt get me there . . . well)

OK. Here was process and products used:

Wash: Used Chemical Guys Cleaner wax (they say takes off previous waxes and sealants) and for the most part it does:

Then used Chemical Guys Iron Remover on the paint and wheels of the car. No good pics as there was not much iron and only a little purple but nothing of significance.

Then used Mothers Clay block as first attack on contaminants using just soap and bucket:

Sun was only out for a little while so no issue with drying soap on the surface of the car and the temp was about 73f. A very nice day to detail a car.

Then dried car off in the garage and began working on the panels and preparing to polish the surface.

The next thing I do is the "plastic bag" test looking for areas that need more decon. This test really works and if its rough I know I have to take the clay bar to it.

Areas around the vents where stuff and accumulate are perfect places for things to stick to the paint. I used a Megiuars Clay Bar and Quick Detailer to remove these contaminants.

Next I prepared the surface for polish using the Gyeon Prep. I like this stuff a lot and think it was very useful in ensuring the surface was ready to go:

Next came polishing. I polished each panel of the car using Sonax Perfect Finish using a DA polisher set on 5.5 and different pads depending on how much I need to cut vs finish. Perfect Finish can do both so if I had some areas of swirls (Which I didn't have too much) I would use a more aggressive pad other wise I used a finishing pad.

For the smaller areas I picked up the Max Shine Mini Polisher. The back panel was driving me nuts cause I felt like I could not get a good polish on it:

Yes that is a couple years of neglect and washing and wiping and black paint. I know its kind of embarrassing but it is corrected now and can be properly maintained.

Another round of Gyeon Prep and I was ready for some new stuff.

In my research I came across some Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz and read the reviews and people really like it. Well I found out that you can get some that is now "color matched" not sure how much of a gimmick it is but they got me. Took my money:

Its a two step process of putting down the what they call the Polish Angel Invincible Primer and then (2) coats of Comic Spritz. One thing I like about it is that you can use it as a drying aid as well when you wash and it maintains the glossy look. We will see.

First Step: Invincible Primer

It went down easy and came off easy and seemed to be like another pass of a finishing product so I liked that. I used the DA with blue finishing pad and did the sections around the car. They say that you have about 8 hours to then apply the Spritz.

Next Step: Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz formulated for Dark Highland Green

It comes out of the bottle as Green but as Dark Highland Green (idk). Either way it went on very easy by hand all the way aorund the car. It took me about 30 mins to make it around the car and I waited 2 hours and did a second coat and then allow to cure for the night

Results: Pics dont do justice let me say . . .

Recap on Process:
- Wash
- Decon (Iron Remover)
- Wash
- Decon (Contamination Remover)
- Inspect
- Clay Bar
- Prep (Gyeon Prep)
- Polish (Sonax Perfect Finish)
- Prep (Gyeon Prep)
- Polish Angel Invincible Primer
- Polish Angel Cosmic Spritz (2 Coats)
- Cure overnight

Hope this helps. Thanks to everyone who has posted their processes. Very helpful.

Oh, no, the photo's do it justice, I can tell.

Couple of favorites used there, I love using Gyeon Prep for the scent alone and Sonax Perfect Finish is pretty fantastic!

How do you like the mini Maxshine polisher?

Well done by the way, a lot of hard work there and I can definitely see that in your finished results.

 

[DFB5.0]

Thanks. Appreciate the advice. If I did want to top a coating, why would you not use CanCot? Polish Angle better for that?

This is where I was going with my initial response was going. Can Coat can be used as a coating topper, as in putting it over something like Gyeon Pure or Gyeon Mohs. From my perspective, if you already have a coating like that applied, that's a pretty substantial coating and adding something as strong as Can Coat is not needed, borderline excessive. So, you can do it, but you really don't need to.

Topping a coating can be done in three ways -

1/Apply a coating maintenance product every 4 - 6 months. Products like Carpro Reload, Gyeon Cure or Gtechniq C2v3 exist for this reason.

2/Use an Si02 type detailer as a drying aid after each wash. There are hundreds of these products now; Carpro EliXir, NV Boost, Meguiar's HC Detailer, Gyeon Ceramic Detailer, Obsessed Garage Drying Aid.......................................

3/ Do both of the above!

Looking into Cosmic Spritz, it can be used as standalone, ceramic topper or drying aid. Considering the cost of the product, you would have to a baller to use it as a drying aid! It also needs to cure for 12 hours, so plan accordingly.

If it were me, I would use either Can Coat or Cosmic Spritz as your base layer, then maintain it with any of the above.

Sponsored