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Video: GT350 Crash At The Nurburgring

sigintel

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Start out with the simple stuff.
1. Tires have a March 2017 date code on them
2. This was there second track day, approximately 8, 20 minute sessions, two in the rain
3. They had been to work maybe 3 times and 2 cars and coffees. I would say maybe 60 road miles
4. 38 psi at the beginning of this session, when it is cold I run 34 psi

As for Alignment
1. 2.3 degrees negative camber D and 2.1 degrees P
2. 6.4 caster and 6.1 caster respectively
3. I run a 1/16th toed in

I have the rear alignment specs and scale weights, but not sure they are relevant. During the rebuild I am working at moving weight to the center of the car, to make it less polar. Also my passenger side rear tire is light, so I am going to out the battery over it. Neither here nor there. The failure was completely unexpected, and for reference the wheel structurally lived. Now could it have handled heat and flexing better? I am hoping so on my replacements and I have added lots of brake cooling.
Still have?
Did the intact inner sidewall have a greasy graphite feel to it?
Any blisters on inner sidewall?
Bead steel seperate from bead gum?
Could we see wire with thin layer of rubber covering bead wire core?
You can get an idea of how fast the tire went down
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sigintel

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Enhance 34 to 46
28FB5C1E-A616-4C28-842C-A173148CD0AC.jpeg


Pull back. Wait a minute pan right. stop
6B00506B-4940-4772-A281-B407629AA079.jpeg


Enhance 57 to 19. Track 45 left. stop
56A86E08-AB91-4A7D-8478-BFF10DE21B6D.jpeg


Enhance 15 to 23
E6CE5293-67DA-40BC-8C84-F5049B3779B9.jpeg


... this must have been a front corner.
Not saying its the cause, but did you check those valve stems?
Your brakes rotors were already 800-1200F surface likely at least 10-15 minutes into session
How many sessions on these assemblies?
Those rubber stem are not made for track use. Does the manual state these must be replaced with metal for track use?

Radiant heat/energy transmission is 4th order/4th power of temperature differential. Black rubber is like 100% absorption. Imagine roughly 25 heat lamps pointed at your inner barrel and rim under braking. Those stock rubber valve stems can get crispy, warped, hardened and fail.

Tire Rack sells both Black and Silver Dil very cheap and they support the tpms.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/best-place-to-get-oem-tpms.91602/page-2#post-2093391
Edit: Tirerack took them off website. They supposedly still have if you call them with existing order or previous order, luck may vary sales person..
Anyone try Vampa?
1127ACB1-6408-49A7-B943-D2214C777F80.gif
 
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1 old racer

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Anyone ever use Thermax6 Temperature Indicating Labels on their calipers or wheels? It been a while sense I have used them and when I did they were placed on my calipers. But it would be interesting to place them on the wheels just to see how much heat soak/transfer occurs.
 

DAVECS1

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I am going to go look at that valve stem. To tell you the truth I never even thought about that. I have never had to worry about heat like this, so it is all a bit new. My older cars were just not capable of running that fast, that hard, and that long. Thanks for the tip. I will get some pics of the bead. My friend who works at a big tire company sent back what he analyzed as failure.

The air down I believe happened in the distance of the straight I was on, so 10 seconds or less.

Enhance 34 to 46
28FB5C1E-A616-4C28-842C-A173148CD0AC.jpeg


Pull back. Wait a minute pan right. stop
6B00506B-4940-4772-A281-B407629AA079.jpeg


Enhance 57 to 19. Track 45 left. stop
56A86E08-AB91-4A7D-8478-BFF10DE21B6D.jpeg


Enhance 15 to 23
E6CE5293-67DA-40BC-8C84-F5049B3779B9.jpeg


... this must have been a front corner.
Not saying its the cause, but did you check those valve stems?
Your brakes rotors were already 800-1200F surface likely at least 10-15 minutes into session
How many sessions on these assemblies?
Those rubber stem are not made for track use. Does the manual state these must be replaced with metal for track use?

Radiant heat/energy transmission is 4th order/4th power of temperature differential. Black rubber is like 100% absorption. Imagine roughly 25 heat lamps pointed at your inner barrel and rim under braking. Those stock rubber valve stems can get crispy, warped, hardened and fail.

Tire Rack sells both Black and Silver Dil very cheap and they support the tpms.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/best-place-to-get-oem-tpms.91602/page-2#post-2093391
Edit: Tirerack took them off website. They supposedly still have if you call them with existing order or previous order, luck may vary sales person..
Anyone try Vampa?
1127ACB1-6408-49A7-B943-D2214C777F80.gif
 

Todd00000

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Running with no front splitter? why?
I have over 1200 miles on the 'Ring and if he is a regular visitor the first Carousel turn can eat up front splitters.
z06nurburg44.jpg
 

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DAVECS1

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Blade Runner, heck yeah, i checked over my valve stem it looks intact. Heck the tire sensor looks worse for wear but it may still work too!

I am going to go look at that valve stem. To tell you the truth I never even thought about that. I have never had to worry about heat like this, so it is all a bit new. My older cars were just not capable of running that fast, that hard, and that long. Thanks for the tip. I will get some pics of the bead. My friend who works at a big tire company sent back what he analyzed as failure.

The air down I believe happened in the distance of the straight I was on, so 10 seconds or less.
 

Digital_Synapse

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There is a reason why that corner is called "youtube corner". It is a lot harder to take than the video shows. Too fast in, could not turn the car, straight into the wall.....
I pretty much crash every time in video games, all games where the ring is featured lol
 
 




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