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***Urgent*** Check Clutch Line At Brake Master Cylinder

Derrick98

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It's all about using the right tools. You need one of these:

51zgp5XJ2rL._SL1000_.jpg


The clamp is impossible to fasten by hand, and next to impossible with normal pliers due to the lack of space. But with some thin, extra-long nose pliers it's really a breeze.
Did you bleed the clutch after? And was it hard to do, can I do under an hour
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Derrick98

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I have the Steeda clutch to master cylinder line upgrade when putting it on do I need to be watch for anything it seems pretty straightforward
 

Vlad Soare

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Did you bleed the clutch after? And was it hard to do, can I do under an hour
No, I didn't. I figured the circuit actually started at the clutch master cylinder, so as long as there are no leaks it shouldn't need to draw any fresh fluid (or air) through that line.
The clutch bleeding procedure is nothing fancy. It consists of simply pressing and releasing the clutch pedal a hundred times.
 

Derrick98

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No, I didn't. I figured the circuit actually started at the clutch master cylinder, so as long as there are no leaks it shouldn't need to draw any fresh fluid (or air) through that line.
The clutch bleeding procedure is nothing fancy. It consists of simply pressing and releasing the clutch pedal a hundred times.
Okay sounds simple enough, take the old line off and put the new on as long as I have the tools I got bigger hands so it’s a tight fit
 

Rapid Red

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Be careful. Since my car was already down from the slave failing I figure I'd check this. I could see some seeping and barely touched the connection it it came right off. It appears the outer hose is coming loose from the underlying rubber seal. I had to slide the smaller rubber fitting off of the nipple, put it back inside the hose, and re-install. It's definitely tight on the nipple now compared to when it came off.

In the first pic you can see where the outer hose has begun to come loose from the inner gasket/seal/whatever it's called. Just a slight pull and it came right off the nipple, leaving the rubber portion behind.

EDIT: To be fair - I've had my master cylinder replaced by the dealer so my specifics may not be the same as assembly line issues, but it certainly seems awfully similar.
IMG_4080.JPG

That's the money shot, says it all :thumbsup:
 

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M1-Fan

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Well... Looks like the loose line issue is still not resolved on the M.Y. 2022 Mach1. I took possession of a very low mileage M1HP a few weeks ago. I checked my line yesterday, and although there are no leaks and connector was dry, it did have a moderate gap, so I pushed it in further....
 
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Optimum Performance

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Issue not resolved on M.Y. 2022 Mach1. Took possession of this very low mileage M1HP a few weeks ago. I checked my line yesterday, and although there are no leaks and connector was dry, it had a gap so I pushed it in further....
What issue are you trying to resolve?
 

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Vlad Soare

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The issue is that if the tube snaps, the car can catch fire. Which has actually happened in the past, it's not just a theory.
 

sms2022

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Thanks for bumping this. The line on my 22 is almost all the way off. I just thought it was normal
 

MrMike

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I had never seen this thread before. I just checked my line and it was almost off as well. Damn.
 

Bullittproof

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Thanks to this forum, this thread in particular, I had both lines replaced with the Steeda items at a couple hundred miles last year…
…shame on Ford for not outfitting every vehicle at the factory with the upgrades!
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