Upgraded the 3.5 door speaker???

[Rash]

I put a mid woofer in the 6.5 slot. If you are not adding an amp, I would just change to the 3.5 and leave the 6.5 stick.

What brand/model mid woofer?

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[billross77]

I used 6.5" Punch Prof mid woofers in the door.

 

[Redcruzer]

I haven't taken the panel off and looked at it yet but don't understand when you say the factory connector can be reused. The JBL GTO329 only has the 2 pins on the speaker, there's no connector. I was hoping there was some adapter I could solder onto the speaker like the METRA 72-5602 adapter I used on the 6.5" so I could just unplug the factory 3.5" and plug the 329 right in and not have to cut the factory wire. Is that possible or do I have to cut it?

To be clear, the factory speaker housing has the female side of the connector press fit into it. You can reuse this if you choose just like you would use a Metra connector. All you need is a pair of channel locks to squeeze it out. You will have to cut the connectors leads to the speaker itself so if you wanted to reuse tbe factory soeakers you would have to resolder the leads.

Good luck, its really very easy to do.

 

[jbailer]

To be clear, the factory speaker housing has the female side of the connector press fit into it. You can reuse this if you choose just like you would use a Metra connector. All you need is a pair of channel locks to squeeze it out. You will have to cut the connectors leads to the speaker itself so if you wanted to reuse tbe factory soeakers you would have to resolder the leads.

Good luck, its really very easy to do.

I definitely don't want to mess with the factory speaker at all. My preference would be to not even cut the factory wires, to just buy an adapter like the Metrica adapter, solder it to the speaker and connect it to the factory connector from the stereo. After thinking about it for a bit, it seems like that will just be a lot of work... I think I'll just cut the wires. If I want to return it to stock, I'll just solder the factory back in.

 

[billross77]

It really is an easy switch over, and makes a big difference in high end clarity. If the JBL fits the factory bracket, Id go with that. Two quick splices or soldered wires, and 5 screws...thats it. Like you have read before, make sure you keep account of all the blue pieces for the door brackets. Those little boogers fly everywhere.

 

[CustomS550]

I know that this is about 5 months old, but aren't the factory 3.5s 8ohm and the JBLs are 3ohm? That's quite a large difference in resistance.

 

[2016Gruv]

I know that this is about 5 months old, but aren't the factory 3.5s 8ohm and the JBLs are 3ohm? That's quite a large difference in resistance.

While the term is impedance, what is your point? That info by itself really doesn't mean anything. If the JBL speakers are ~ 1/2 the impedance but are down 3dB or more in efficiency, then what?

 

[CustomS550]

While the term is impedance, what is your point? That info by itself really doesn't mean anything. If the JBL speakers are ~ 1/2 the impedance but are down 3dB or more in efficiency, then what?

But they're not @ 91db? Just something to consider, that's all man.

 

[vnzbd]

I would think the different impedance would alter the crossover points. I don't know how complex the crossover is but I would expect the mid to be band passed. I would like to hear the stock mid vs. a "full range". And as mentioned the efficiency does play a part.

 

[CustomS550]

I would think the different impedance would alter the crossover points. I don't know how complex the crossover is but I would expect the mid to be band passed. I would like to hear the stock mid vs. a "full range". And as mentioned the efficiency does play a part.

All I know is that adding the factory 3.5 mids to my Base audio system really made a pleasant improvement over just the single 6.5s upfront which I swapped from the rear deck due to better vocal reproduction than the stock fronts. The stock Base 6.5s are 4ohm and the 3.5s are 8ohm therefore the total is 2.7ohm DC. The HU seems to be coping OK, although I'm sure that with the added resistance of the wiring it's somewhere in between to 3-4ohm DC, however there's also the tweeter in the mix. I'm not sure about its resistance. Also, the 3.5s do not have a crossover cap like the tweeters, so they're dealing with the full range out of the factory HU, and seem to handle that well.

 

[HextallS550]

I wouldn't waste time and money on this unless all you want is for the car to be a little "louder" aka you hear sound from an area you didn't before. The location of the speakers throws off your imaging. Same reason I dont use rear speakers. Even digital time alignment won't help as it's really just a band aid for poor speaker placement in the automotive environment.

 

[HextallS550]

Also for the record those mids are tied to the tweeters not the mid bass. Any time you change resistance your changing the crossover point in a passive set up.

 

[CustomS550]

I wouldn't waste time and money on this unless all you want is for the car to be a little "louder" aka you hear sound from an area you didn't before. The location of the speakers throws off your imaging. Same reason I dont use rear speakers. Even digital time alignment won't help as it's really just a band aid for poor speaker placement in the automotive environment.

I don't know, man, they really filled in a void in the vocal range I didn't know was there until I heard the difference. I might have to rewire them to the tweets, then, but I don't it matters in the base audio configuration?

 

[HextallS550]

I don't know, man, they really filled in a void in the vocal range I didn't know was there until I heard the difference. I'll have to rewire them to the tweets, then.

Thats what I meant by "sound coming from where it wasn't before" I'm not sure what frequency range you're playing them at. It could be that they lifted that 300-5K range up off of the floor.
When I speak about audio, especially car audio I'm doing so with pure SQ in mind. So imaging is just as important as volume or frequency response.

 

[CustomS550]

Thats what I meant by "sound coming from where it wasn't before" I'm not sure what frequency range you're playing them at. It could be that they lifted that 300-5K range up off of the floor.
When I speak about audio, especially car audio I'm doing so with pure SQ in mind. So imaging is just as important as volume or frequency response.

Got ya,

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