Uh.....Guys?

[Condor1970]

I don't recall ... but did you cut the original stretchy belt off and then run the engine without the belt to see what it sounded like?

No, I didn't bother, because I knew I wanted the tension arm on there anyway. I suppose I could have, but didn't think about the possibility of the belt being the issue. The TSB was for the ticking sound, which I think they know is compressor or engine related, and not the belt simply being bad. So, I'm going with that theory. Especially since the belt basically no visible wear at all. Either way, I'm trying not to fret over it too much, and just trying to enjoy the car now.

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[Mopa]

If you have the "tick".... try this...

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8620DK/ford-mustang-a-c-tensioner-pulley-kit-5-0l-11-14

Older TSB:

https://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/tsb05-14/tsb12-08-14.pdf

I can confirm this kit will fit and work perfectly on the 2018 Mustang GT.

Well, it took a whopping hour to install. So, first I'll write down the basic steps I used to install it.

1. Remove engine cover. Two 10mm nuts on the front under little covers you can pop off with a screwdriver. Then, the rear of the engine cover just pops off.
2. Remove Air Intake by unclipping from the filter box, unclip and remove the two vacuum hoses and sound tube. Just set them aside. Fully loosen the big hose clamp on the throttle body, and pop off the intake. Set the intake aside gently, so you won't need to unplug the MAF sensor.
3. loosen both 10mm bolts holding the coolant expansion tank in place, and gently set it forward on top of the radiator. You really don't need to disconnect the little overflow hoses if you're careful.
4. Remove the main serpentine belt.
5. Remove A/C stretchy belt. I just used a box cutter.
6. Install the tension arm first, using the position hole that puts the arm in the lower position. The upper position will not work, as the belt is not that long. I recommend you loop the belt over the top of the tensioner as you install it, because it is almost impossible to route the belt behind the pulley when the tensioner is fully tightened.
7. Install the upper idler pulley.
Note: I believe both are torqued to 18ft-lbs per the TSB.
8. Install the belt per the diagram in TSB 12-8-14.
9. Reinstall the main serpentine.
10. Reinstall the coolant expansion tank.
11. Reinstall the Air Intake.
12. Reinstall the engine cover.

Ok...Done!!!


So, what are my results?

Well, the results were immediate. I warmed up the car, and did not notice any idling tick while warming up. One would think not much would happen just from adding a belt tensioner, but...the whole tone of the engine at idle changed. ALL idling tick is GONE!!!
As I went for a quick 20 minute drive, I noticed virtually ALL of the "rattle" I was getting around 2,000rpm is seriously subdued by about 80-90%. It still seems to be slightly there, but it's actually much harder to hear now.

Now, as for the tick while blip revving in neutral...GONE!!! It might still be there, but I honestly can't hear anything that wouldn't be considered normal. My ears are good, but not THAT good! It's virtually negligible.

I honestly wish I had done this the moment I bought the car. Maybe it would have prevented a lot of the ticking issue to begin with. I have not found any metal in my filters, or in the oil pan yet. So, I'm hoping/praying there's no damage to the engine. I may talk to the dealer to see if they can at least bore scope the cylinders, just in case.

But aside of all that, it does sound so much better.

And, for those wondering, this is where I got the idea to do this.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-2014-mustang-talk/996793-engine-tick-fix.html

I want to do this on my 18 GT but have a couple of questions before I order the kit. The instructions on the kit say you need new transmission cooler tubes if it is an auto. I looked and don"t see any lines that would interfere. Does anyone know about this. How hard is it to remove the serpentine belt? Is there a step by step guide on removing and replacing the serpentine belt. Thanks.

 

[accel]

I want to do this on my 18 GT but have a couple of questions before I order the kit. The instructions on the kit say you need new transmission cooler tubes if it is an auto. I looked and don"t see any lines that would interfere. Does anyone know about this. How hard is it to remove the serpentine belt? Is there a step by step guide on removing and replacing the serpentine belt. Thanks.

just cut it.

 

[Condor1970]

just cut it.

Yes, all you have to do is cut it off. Only do you need to roll the crank if you're putting it back on in stock for. The tension arm allows it to run with more even pressure at all times, and install by compressing the tension arm, which is easier.

 

[accel]

Yes, all you have to do is cut it off. Only do you need to roll the crank if you're putting it back on in stock for. The tension arm allows it to run with more even pressure at all times, and install by compressing the tension arm, which is easier.

... and if you decide to go back to serpentine, - just buy new belt. I rolled mine back.

 

[GT Pony]

I want to do this on my 18 GT but have a couple of questions before I order the kit. The instructions on the kit say you need new transmission cooler tubes if it is an auto. I looked and don"t see any lines that would interfere. Does anyone know about this

If you can't see any automatic transmission oil lines in the way that would removing when installing the kit, then it's probably not required for the 2018. That TSB is for 2011-2012 Mustangs which must a different auto transmission line setup.

 

[Mopa]

Yes, all you have to do is cut it off. Only do you need to roll the crank if you're putting it back on in stock for. The tension arm allows it to run with more even pressure at all times, and install by compressing the tension arm, which is easier.

I wasn’t clear on my post about the serpentine belt. I was referring to the main serpentine belt. I was hoping someone could tell me what is involved in taking it off in order to put the new ac kit on. I appreciate the reply’s.

 

[Condor1970]

I wasn’t clear on my post about the serpentine belt. I was referring to the main serpentine belt. I was hoping someone could tell me what is involved in taking it off in order to put the new ac kit on. I appreciate the reply’s.

I moved the coolant expansion tank to the side, but did not take it off. Just remove a couple mounting bolts and moved it over. Then, use a breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and remove the main belt.

 

[Mopa]

I put the AC tension kit on my Mustang tonight and being 67 yrs old with a bad back it took me a couple of hours. My 18 Base GT only has 2500 miles but never had the tick or knock noise. I changed the oil to Mobile 1 Euro 0W40 as soon as I brought it home trying to be proactive and prevent any engine noise. I put the AC tension kit on for the same reason. Seems logical to do this since the engine cover is machined for it and the F150's have it. Unless it was my imagination it did seem quieter after the install. Many thanks to Condor for this write up!

 

[aleccolin]

Didn't read through all of this, and don't have any ticking from my '16, but I'll probably throw this on when I do my blower since I always thought the idea of the stretchy belt was idiotic and my car has already eaten one A/C compressor. I always suspected the stretch belt was putting a lot more pressure on the AC compressor pulley than needed. If they really didn't want to use a tensioner pulley they should have used a cogged belt instead.

If, somehow, it prevents some sort of tick that could potentially be picked up as false knock, all the better.

One question though, the TSB includes a PCM reprogram...can't see why that would be necessary at all.

 

[accel]

I always thought the idea of the stretchy belt was idiotic

it is not that idiotic if the tension is right.

I put tensioner on. This did not fix the tick. I rolled back to stretchy belt for warranty reasoms.

Tensioner configuration is heavy. Also. it is pretty strong as well. I do not think it puts less stress on bearings than stretchy.

 

[BlownGP]

So. Will this work on a 15-17?

 

[accel]

So. Will this work on a 15-17?

Yes if you add ceratec on top of it.

 

[BlownGP]

Yes if you add ceratec on top of it.

haha. So there is no point.

My tick is not that bad and if the internet wasn't around I wouldn't even know it was there. hahaah

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