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Tuning question/engine maintenance
- Thread starter Bluemustang
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Need4Speed15
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That sucks man! Sorry to hear that...
You could throw the stock CAI back on and return the car to stock, stock tune while you wait for the new JLT tube?
sublimaze
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They f*cked up and didn't tell you, eh. No surprise. I would speak to the manager/owner, tell them what happened, and demand they replace the part. If they refuse, then I'd tell everyone I know to stay away from that shop. And blitz FB, Twitter, Yelp, Google and everything else I could think of. And the BBB.
Everyone makes mistakes, but when someone is honest and forthcoming about screwing up, then they get my respect for owning up to it, and I am more inclined to give them another shot. But when someone tries to cover up their mess (or downright ignores it), then I'm done.
El_Centenario
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Make sure you take pictures of the damage and send your mechanic the bill for your new JLT intake tube. Just another reason I don't like taking my car in for service.
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Bluemustang
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The guy at the gas station was able to heat the intake tube enough to bend it back enough so it's relatively the right shape and will fit over the TB. But I think I will need a new intake tube. I've got pretty much all 93 octane in it and my AFR is 12.8-13.2 which seems pretty rich.
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Bluemustang
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The shop I think has agreed to order me a new intake tube.
sublimaze
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Nice. They did the right thing by offering to replace it. They'll lose some profit out of the deal, but sometimes that is the cost of doing business and keeping customers happy.
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Bluemustang
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When I do get the new intake tube (hopefully tomorrow), would you guys recommend I reflashing my Lund tune in order to let the computer relearn?
Need4Speed15
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I would return to stock and reload the Lund tune and do a KAM reset just to zero out any learned values. In reality it will relearn if left alone, but my OCD would be kicking in bad. Lol
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Bluemustang
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Yeahh, my OCD is beginning to get the best of me. I need someone to put me in my place LOL
The shop is saying that the tech apparently did not touch the clamp furthest from the TB, where the crimp in the intake tube was. Basically implying that it was there before I took it to them. BUT they are not arguing over it and are replacing the intake tube with a new one.
This brings me back to my OCD about this. Maybe, just maybe (not admitting yet) I was the idiot and damaged it myself somehow? But then why would this just be showing up now? Could I damaged it by overtightening the clamp, using just a screwdriver and hand tightening?
When I started the tune process with Lund- they sent me a straight 93 octane only tune for my JLT. We needed two revisions (each time they added more fuel) before we could move to the FF tune. This surprised me. Cars can vary from one to another I realize, but I would think Lund has these JLT tunes done perfect by now. So I wondered, why did we need two revisions to get to this place?
Is it possible that the tune revisions were simply covering up a faulty installation by me? I mean this is all hypothetical of course bc I don't know for sure. But if so, then I would think my existing FF tune will not be calibrated properly. And I will have to start the process yet again.
I am kind of doubting this because I recall the car running fine prior to this. And my AFR was around 13.3-13.5 before this.
I have mostly 93 octane in it now and I refilled today with more. And my AFR on my dash is reading 12.8-13.2 now so richer than before.
There might be a little bit of flex fuel in it but at most a gallon I think. My AFR I feel like should be much leaner than it is. Hopefully the new intake tube will solve it. It should - unless something was wrong to begin with (which I doubt).
I'm going to put on the new intake tube and do a KAM reset and see where I'm at.
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Nuked
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Do you have an nGauge? If so what is the Alch % at? The factory AFR is pretty much useless if you have anything more than 10% ethanol.
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Bluemustang
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No SCT X4.
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Bluemustang
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The guy at the shop heated the tube to bend the crimp back into shape while I was with him. Just while we wait for a new intake tube.
I took the whole intake off tonight- it looks fine.... so I bolted everything back up checking for any gaps. I did a KAM reset and now letting it idle. AFR seems to be 13.8-14.1 to start off. Gonna take it for a drive and see if it feels any better.
I still have a new intake tube coming so, I guess we'll see. I don't see anything wrong with it though...
The boost/vacuum gauge seems to be rhythmically fluctuating from time to time. Dunno if that is bad but I don't think it's good.
I took the whole intake off tonight- it looks fine.... so I bolted everything back up checking for any gaps. I did a KAM reset and now letting it idle. AFR seems to be 13.8-14.1 to start off. Gonna take it for a drive and see if it feels any better.
I still have a new intake tube coming so, I guess we'll see. I don't see anything wrong with it though...
The boost/vacuum gauge seems to be rhythmically fluctuating from time to time. Dunno if that is bad but I don't think it's good.
dbranger94
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Don't know if any of this helps, but here's what John at Lund Racing told me about idle and WOT AFR for their cals.
"Pump gas: Stoich = 14.6-14.7 Idle should match Stoich = 14.6-14.7 * and at WOT is should be *WOT= 12.3-12.5"
Also, I watch my boost/vacuum gauge on my car all the time and it's always jumped around a bit on it's own.
If the car is running rich at idle, below 14.5ish, it's usually because the O2 sensor is reading lean and trying to compensate. I'd suspect the O2 sensors may have taken a hit from the chemicals they ran through the engine.
"Pump gas: Stoich = 14.6-14.7 Idle should match Stoich = 14.6-14.7 * and at WOT is should be *WOT= 12.3-12.5"
Also, I watch my boost/vacuum gauge on my car all the time and it's always jumped around a bit on it's own.
If the car is running rich at idle, below 14.5ish, it's usually because the O2 sensor is reading lean and trying to compensate. I'd suspect the O2 sensors may have taken a hit from the chemicals they ran through the engine.
dbranger94
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Not sure how you would verify AFR without a stand-alone O2 gauge. The other possibility is that the sensor is lying and the engine is actually running lean.
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