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I'd like to buy a good condition remote key fob with the running horse on the back. I don't care if the electronics work, just need the shell to replace mine. Everyone knows how the silver peels off of them.

Yeah, I had a hunch after reading that someone else disconnected their battery for 10 minutes and I did a KAM(Keep Alive Memory) reset. I used my nGauge and performed an ECU KAM reset and keyed off and back on. You lose all the learned ECU data, but if you're at the point of compression...

Hi, I'm trying to do a compression test on my GT. I put a 2.9L Whipple on it in the summer and I'd like to check how the engine is doing. I pulled the coils and plugs and the fuel pump fuse, but while testing the third cylinder the car went into "cranking time exceeded" mode. I waited 30min...

Here is the combination of parts I received with my tuner kit as of 5/11/20 when the order was placed. Closed plastic air box, standard Gates belt, Gen 4 rotors and case, plastic coolant tank, no IAT sensor and an updated instruction manual. I also believe that the TB has the motor and gear...

Gen 4 was just released earlier this year. Don't know how it's "old"? I personally don't like the newer Gen5, looks like a GM product.

That's not true. Whipple kits are built to order. That's why there's a 3 week lead time and why almost noone has them on a shelf. The Gen4 is the newest version of the 2.9L blower, while the 3.0L is a completely different blower designed for 2018+ DI cars. Whipple is still manufacturing both...

I was just hoping someone who had recently received one of Whipple's kits could verify its current configuration.

Well, I should receive my 2.9L whipple tuner kit on Tuesday for my 2015 GT. Just wondering what parts come with the current kits. Open or closed air box? Gates regular, HD, or RPM belt? Gen 3 or 4 compressor? Aluminum or plastic coolant tank? The PDF and the videos I've watched all seem to...

Glad to hear you got it figured out.

Not sure if you installed OPGs or a lower crank timing sprocket, but you may check the balancer is all the way back if it's ever been removed. You should also use a ruler or yard stick to check that all the pulleys, especially the grooved ones, are in the same plane.

My car is still fighting me. I pray it's something simple, but the SAS and PSCM are built into the rack, which is ~$1500...

No. Wasn't an option. Only blind spot monitoring and adaptive cruise control were options, and I don't have either.

Thought I'd have a dash cam video of the car doing this, but it mysteriously didn't record while I was demonstrating the problem to my wife. Everything up till then is fine, but nothing during or after...?

Exactly!

The tires are basically new, only a couple thou on them. But I'm 95% sure it's not the tires. It's doing this on perfectly flat and smooth roads. The car isn't reacting to anything, it's literally acting on it's own for no apparent reason.

I've noticed that every one in a while, while hard cornering, the car will take over and sort of lock itself into a corner. I have to apply extra pressure in the opposite direction to get it to come out of it. Well, last night I drove the car and it decided to drive me instead. I could feel...

That reminds me of something odd I noticed with my IMRCs a few weeks ago. When one has ~4V the other is ~1.1V, and they flop back and forth. I assumed they were supposed to do that. I actually took a pic! 20181004_183916 by dbranger94 posted Nov 23, 2018 at 3:17 PM Bottom left corner. Edit...

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In my log for my race cal they start to open at around 2000rpm and show full voltage at 2100. My street cal shows them opening at 2900 and full voltage at 3000.