Torque control issues with Roush / FRPP Supercharger

[Mark S]

I don't have a gauge that will allow me to check the IAT at the intercooler. I can say that the degas bottle gets warm / hot to the touch and there is fluid moving through it on a regular basis. FRPP tech support is thinking I may have an airlock in the intercooler. If there is fluid moving through the degas bottle could I possibly still have an airlock somewhere?

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[TorkN8R]

I don't have a gauge that will allow me to check the IAT at the intercooler. I can say that the degas bottle gets warm / hot to the touch and there is fluid moving through it on a regular basis. FRPP tech support is thinking I may have an airlock in the intercooler. If there is fluid moving through the degas bottle could I possibly still have an airlock somewhere?

Mark, its interesting that you mention an possible airlock in the system. I've watched both install videos on this TVS/Roush/FRP supercharger.

On CJ Pony, Bill removes the water pump and...gush! Of comes all the coolant, of course.

If you watch the install video of the same SC on Late Model Restoration, the narrator specifically mentions that they dont remove the water pump for that reason.

Who knows? Just saying, check it out.

 

[Mark S]

Yeah... I followed the LMR recommendation and didn't pull the water pump, or drain the coolant. FRPP is suggesting a possible airlock in just the intercooler / heat exchanger setup.

 

[Mark S]

Per travis@boostworks recommendation about data logging the IAT2 I borrowed an iNtune tunner from a friend. I connected it to my can and tried to find the PID for IAT2, but can't seem to find it. I've selected all of the PID's that have anything to do with intake air temperature but everyone I see shows me the same data my dash shows. Anyone have experience with the Diablosport iNtune?

 

[dwaleke]

Per travis@boostworks recommendation about data logging the IAT2 I borrowed an iNtune tunner from a friend. I connected it to my can and tried to find the PID for IAT2, but can't seem to find it. I've selected all of the PID's that have anything to do with intake air temperature but everyone I see shows me the same data my dash shows. Anyone have experience with the Diablosport iNtune?

Not all devices can read IAT2.

In fact there is a new wiring harness that is needed for the Lund NGauge to be able to read the IAT2 sensor (you would need their tune as well).

 

[Travis@boostworks]

Does Roush have a down stream IAT sensor that you pin unto the pcm or into the wiring harness? If so, then you most likely are converting what was yout ambient IAT to down stream. So, your IAT would be down stream temps.

 

[Process]

Less than half an inch. .4133 to be exact.

How do you figure?

275/35/20 is 27.58" tall
305/35/20 is 28.41" tall

 

[Mark S]

I did see a PID for ambient air temperature. I checked that and it is showing a lot less than the air charge temperature PID. The ambient air temperature is showing lower than the actual outside air temp by a few degrees so I wasn't sure which sensor it is. If the kit is displaying temperature at the intercooler when I'm moving I never see it abot 120 degrees. Usually it's somewhere between 80 and 100 degrees. Sitting in traffic however i have seen it go up to over 140 degrees. What should a safe / typical operating temperature be for this?

 

[JasinEdward]

I'm seeing a similar issue with the auto setup on the Roush tune. I have tried this in normal, sport+, and track mode. I roll throttle in 1st to avoid wheelspin. When it hits 2nd, it does it pretty hard and cuts power for a split second and begins to pull like a bat outta hell again.

I have to get a few more test runs in to verify, but I can see how it would affect 1/4 times... I am 100% sure advance track is off when I do this. I have a premium model. I am also going to try the paddle shifters.

It feels like advancetrac, but it could also be torque management in the tune...

 

[Stage_3]

I'm going to say it's the tune more than anything else.
The Roush tunes are conservative and I "assume" that it is tuned in a way so boost don't come on full blast all at once, but rather, sequential, if that makes sense. Mostly because of the warranty. Again,......this is just an "assumption".
Good luck OP and let us know how you make out!

 

[JasinEdward]

I was able to do some more paddle shifted runs... It seems like the stock rev limiter is in place on the tune, but the car's shift point is set at 7000rpm or more. When I use the paddle shifters and shift at 6500 or less the issue does not happen. I remember the stock limiter cause I hit it all the time on my 2014 m6 prior to a tune...

 

[TorkN8R]

OP! I'll just throw this againts the wall for the heck of it. What does anybody think of the idea that while opening the wiring harnesses to the knock sensors, to make the wire harnesses long enough to turn and move the knock sensors as far art as possible, that it wasn't done quite right and the knock sensors is pulling time to prevent detonation? Just asking!

 

[Mark S]

The wiring harness was modified so that the sensors could be turned all the way until the connector side was touching the cylinder heads.

This weekend I was able to spend some time playing with the car. As recommended in an earlier post I removed fuse 62. The power delivery was night and day difference. With the fuse removed the car performed the way you'd expect a 600+ horsepower car to perform. Once it was reinstalled it ran like crap again. I called the FRPP tech line this morning and explained this to them and they are looking into it for me. Frustrating part is that I only went with the FRPP kit so that I could have a powertrain warranty... It sounds like if I want to enjoy the full power of the kit I either need to drive around with fuse 62 removed or get a custom tune which will void my warranty. I am convinced that the issue is in their tune and either the traction / advancetrack isn't being fully disabled even thought the dash indicates that it is disabled, or there is something in the tune that is still allowing torque control to make my car run poorly.

 

[2015 DIB GT]

I am in full agreeance with everything you said regarding buying the FRPP supercharger. I got the Roush because of the warranty and also the fit and finish. In my oppinion it is one of the best looking kits and just looks factory when you pop the hood. Now I just wish I could get it to feel like a 627 HP car instead of pulling power every time I lay into it really hard. I really don't want to put a custom tune in it and am really hoping Roush will step up and work out these issues we are having.

 

[CLDS550]

I am in full agreeance with everything you said regarding buying the FRPP supercharger. I got the Roush because of the warranty and also the fit and finish. In my oppinion it is one of the best looking kits and just looks factory when you pop the hood. Now I just wish I could get it to feel like a 627 HP car instead of pulling power every time I lay into it really hard. I really don't want to put a custom tune in it and am really hoping Roush will step up and work out these issues we are having.

+1!!!!!!!

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