Thunk, click and lurch

[Andrewg]

Clunks/noise caused by bumps is not normal, either something is lose or incorrectly installed buddy. The suspension should be pretty damn silent apart from when you hit real nasty potholes, but the only thuds/clunks should be from driveline.

Completely agree mate. I don't think it's the suspension. I've got a lot of the parts you have albeit BMR instead of Steeda and i've checked them all. Nothing feels loose. Car handles well but the clunks are there which is why i'm inclined to believe it's play in the axles/diff as the wheels lose/gain traction independently over the bumps.

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[Andrewg]

Our American friends really rate the upgraded shifters from MGW and Barton, not sure it fixes the general clunks and thumps though, lol.

MGW is pure sex. Shifting is amazing. Just can't be beaten by anything else on the market. Goes in and out of gear so nicely. Low speed and as fast as you can shift at redline, it stays solid.

Have you upgraded the fluid? Really makes a big difference, money well spent at just £100.

BG fluids are the next mod with a FRPP clutch line down the road.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I have BG fluids. It did nothing to improve the shifting, noise, or any other operation.

 

[CJ01]

Thanks for all the replies which are greatly appreciated.

I'll look at the driver mods

 

[Andrewg]

Clunks/noise caused by bumps is not normal, either something is lose or incorrectly installed buddy. The suspension should be pretty damn silent apart from when you hit real nasty potholes, but the only thuds/clunks should be from driveline.

[MENTION=13598]Gibbo205[/MENTION] think I nailed it down to the exhaust piping being installed upside down! The clunks and rattles are coming from the exhaust piping touching the sway bar and the diff housing when the car transfers load.

Been under the car 3 or 4 times to try and figure it out and wasn't until I stumbled on a picture of the underside of a car with the same exhaust that I noticed my hangars are attached to the top of the exhaust piping whereas other's have the hangars attached to the bottom of the piping. Can only mean that when I had the suspension installed the shop re-installed the exhaust with the right connecting pipe on the left and vice-versa. Will be taking it all off and putting it back on properly this weekend to see if that solves my issues.

 

[Gibbo205]

[MENTION=13598]Gibbo205[/MENTION] think I nailed it down to the exhaust piping being installed upside down! The clunks and rattles are coming from the exhaust piping touching the sway bar and the diff housing when the car transfers load.

Been under the car 3 or 4 times to try and figure it out and wasn't until I stumbled on a picture of the underside of a car with the same exhaust that I noticed my hangars are attached to the top of the exhaust piping whereas other's have the hangars attached to the bottom of the piping. Can only mean that when I had the suspension installed the shop re-installed the exhaust with the right connecting pipe on the left and vice-versa. Will be taking it all off and putting it back on properly this weekend to see if that solves my issues.

Yes I've come across quite a few exhaust setups on the Mustang where they get very close to the anti-roll bars and in some cases touch. Just need to be extra mindful during install.

When I install part son my car, once tightened up I swing of them literally to make sure any movement they have is not touching any other components to ensure against any clunks or bangs.

 

[Andrewg]

Yes I've come across quite a few exhaust setups on the Mustang where they get very close to the anti-roll bars and in some cases touch. Just need to be extra mindful during install.

When I install part son my car, once tightened up I swing of them literally to make sure any movement they have is not touching any other components to ensure against any clunks or bangs.

Know what you mean. Had it all perfect when I originally installed the exhaust myself but seems the shop that did the suspension missed that it was upside down when they put it back in. Let it slide when I first got it back as I assumed the diff bushings were just allowing the driveline slop to be transferred into the cabin. Longer I drove it the more I realised something was wrong. When cold there's almost an inch between the sway bar and exhaust but obviously with the metal expanding when hot and the engine shifting further back when under load, that inch disappears.

 

[croyde]

5.9s was all I could manage on pzero without LC, did try LC at 3000 and got 5.5s, problem as stated above on pzero I had to granny shift the 1-2 to stop car breaking lose.

Now no spin and I can do 1-2 shift very quick no issue. When your Pzero are done for, swap to MPSS, trust me you will be freaking amazed by them, in a different league.

Are you going by the track app time. I only ask as I used it for the first time today on my commute home lol

5.7 and wasn't properly going for it as I was surprised by quick changing lights.

Thought that was pretty reasonable. Also the limiter didn't cut in, just the red dials. Would this be because I was in Sport+?

Still on P Zeros.

 

[Gibbo205]

Are you going by the track app time. I only ask as I used it for the first time today on my commute home lol

5.7 and wasn't properly going for it as I was surprised by quick changing lights.

Thought that was pretty reasonable. Also the limiter didn't cut in, just the red dials. Would this be because I was in Sport+?

Still on P Zeros.

I am down to 4.8s now and thats without LC, might be able to get a 4.5 out of her now.

I believe the cars stock limiter is around 6800-7000rpm and the dials turn red at 6500rpm.

Are you a manual or auto, if auto you should be sub 5s without trying.

 

[croyde]

Manual. I was in traffic lol

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