Throttle body calibration drift..

[Taboo 32]

After calibrating my throttle body, my car runs great initially, then it starts to fade through the week and feels like it loses a little power. It additionally gets a little louder and farter out of the exhaust.

I drive a 2017 GT automatic with a VMP tune, cold air induction, 2018 manifold upgrade, borla crosspipe, and pypes “Pype Bombs” axle back.

I drive continually with the paddles and almost never on full automatic

I almost always drive in race mode (does this effect the tune?)


I’m sort of stumped, could it be the throttle body sensor? I clean the max flow sensor with the appropriate cleaner. I just need ideas

Thanks

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[engineermike]

The stock mustang forces the throttle body wide open when the pedal passes 90%. It ignores torque demand and any “learning” that may have happened.

 

[Cory S]

What do your logs show? Lots of information there you can look at.

 

[Taboo 32]

Cory,
I really need to do that, but to be honest I don’t know how. I guess go to my hand held tuner down load my logs… then what software do I need to read them?

thanks for any help

 

[Cory S]

Cory,
I really need to do that, but to be honest I don’t know how. I guess go to my hand held tuner down load my logs… then what software do I need to read them?

thanks for any help

Which tuning software/handheld device do you use?

 

[Grimreaper]

How'd you calibrate your tb? Were you actually into the tune and predictive angle/ effective area tables or just fresh flash and kam reset?

this a stock tb?

 

[Taboo 32]

Cory S…SCT X4

Grim reaper… disconnect a negative pole piece from the battery. Run a jumper from the positive pole piece to the negative battery cable and leave that on for about two minutes to drain the capacitors in the memory. Then I press the start button but do not start the car. Allowing for all systems to start up and making sure that no radios or other power devices are on. Then I start the car and allow her to run for 15 minutes to learn the throttle position at idle. After which I shut the car down and allow it to relearn the throttle position in the off position.

I saw on YouTube and it seems to clear any throttle discrepancies (hesitation,etc)that I have an a car.

 

[Taboo 32]

… Oh yeah stock throttlebody

 

[Cory S]

Cory S…SCT X4

Grim reaper… disconnect a negative pole piece from the battery. Run a jumper from the positive pole piece to the negative battery cable and leave that on for about two minutes to drain the capacitors in the memory. Then I press the start button but do not start the car. Allowing for all systems to start up and making sure that no radios or other power devices are on. Then I start the car and allow her to run for 15 minutes to learn the throttle position at idle. After which I shut the car down and allow it to relearn the throttle position in the off position.

I saw on YouTube and it seems to clear any throttle discrepancies (hesitation,etc)that I have an a car.

Use the Livelink software and do a few logs.

 

[engineermike]

Ok ok….there seems to be some misconception about how the throttle is controlled.

When you give it pedal, it interprets that as a torque demand. It looks up the cylinder filling needed to achieve that torque. Then it converts the filling to an airflow using engine speed. Now that it knows the airflow rate needed, it opens the throttle to the angle it calculates would achieve that flow. Then it measures the airflow using the maf and uses a PID feedback loop to adjust throttle angle to fine tune to the desired flow. This happens in milliseconds and you can’t even sense it. The only “learning” that takes place is the Integral term of the PID loop has a time constant that it averages error over. I don’t remember how long it is exactly but it’s on the order of seconds.

 

[Mustangfreek]

So no tricks to setting up a tb? I’m chasing down a random clicking from a stock unit and tried the battery alligator clip method, touching cables and nothing seems different

question though, with car not running, and I push start button, are you suppose to hear the tb opening , sorta loud with whistle sound like a kids rc car toy?
lol, I know it sounds weird, but first s550 and tracking down a random clicking from the tb

 

[Grimreaper]

No tricks.
You'll need to log like Cory S advised.

 

[Taboo 32]

I’m off to buy a cheap laptop and download Livelink… thanks for all your help

 

[markmurfie]

There are the throttle position sensor voltages(TPS 1/TPS 2) that need to be correct for it to go to the correct commanded angles. Determined by the position of a magnet fixed to the rotation of the throttle.
If they are wrong you can get problems ranging from idle/ drivability issues to throttle stuck Codes, not really what you are describing. Its hard for me to imagine that magent came loose on a stock TB.
Look up a whipple throttle body PDF for TPS 2 forced closed voltage range. .4v-.45v when forced closed iirc.
Can't hurt to check it, but throttle control is probably not your issue.
Get a log of the car peforming well, and one of it not performing well, compare to see what changed.

 

[Mustangfreek]

Huh
im chasing a dumb problem with my tb, no cel lights and screechy whiny noise when car is off, but key on. And when running, sight gurgle,surge at idle and somewhat loud, random ticking.and yes it’s been doing it for 2 different tb’s

could use some help

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/random-ticking-from-throttle-body-update.173446/

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