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This is the worst OEM audio system I ever owned?

Torinate

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disconnecting the center speaker made a huge difference to me but of course ymmv
How did you disconnect the center speaker? Remove the brushed aluminum dash piece to get a it? Can this be done without removing it? From underneath maybe?

What codes in Forscan turn off the built in EQ?
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fast306stang

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How did you disconnect the center speaker? Remove the brushed aluminum dash piece to get a it?
I saw a post elsewhere (I'll have to see if I can find it) where someone was able to pop the clips loose and lift the grill up without removing the entire dash piece.

I wrapped a flat blade screwdriver to do it, but I was impatient and damaged the dash piece. You can't really see it unless I point it out, but I know it's there. I should have gotten the plastic clip removal tools, I think I could have used those without any damage but I didn't want to run to Harbor Freight just for that.
 

MD18EcoStang

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How did you disconnect the center speaker? Remove the brushed aluminum dash piece to get a it? Can this be done without removing it? From underneath maybe?

What codes in Forscan turn off the built in EQ?
See post #26 in this thread.
 

Angrey

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As I stated, I would have ticked the sound system delete box if it would have been an option...
I would do the same, but I'd have to immediately fit it out with at least some system, at the very least for phone calls. And I'd rather pay for a system that meets my needs or at least have more options from Ford for better quality systems. Their offerings are pretty sad.

A simple 6 speaker system with no sub, but high quality speakers and tuned properly with good signal can sound amazing.
 

Evolvd

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How did you disconnect the center speaker? Remove the brushed aluminum dash piece to get a it? Can this be done without removing it? From underneath maybe?

What codes in Forscan turn off the built in EQ?
The center dash trim comes out very easily. Just grab at one end and pull. No tools required. See YouTube if you want a visual.
Same for the center speaker cover but you don’t have to remove that to unplug the speaker. Once the dash trim is out of the way you can reach in and unplug the speaker. But make sure you secure the connector so it doesn’t rattle against anything.
 

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Evolvd

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I actually really enjoy my B&O Stereo in my 21 GT Premium. My only complaint is the damn rattle/reverb in the passenger side door ANY time I play anything that is bass-oriented. It drives me NUTS.

This is the first car I've owned where the FACTORY system rattles LOL
Yep, it’s annoying, especially once you remove the door panel lol. Mine are off right now so I can sound deadening them and swap speakers. The vapor barrier is ripe for flapping and rattles.
 

gone_n_60

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We may be confusing different systems here. The 9-speaker in my "Premium" is not B&O. It's the mid-level option between base and the highest available option. I think B&O systems replaced the previous Shaker systems as Ford's top-of-the-line sound option. Am I right about that?
Yes and even worse that this "upscale" sound system is lamer than a good bluetooth speaker.
 

MCS

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Yep, it’s annoying, especially once you remove the door panel lol. Mine are off right now so I can sound deadening them and swap speakers. The vapor barrier is ripe for flapping and rattles.
This is why I'm going to take it to a professional sound place as soon as I get my hood and stripes on. I'll have them mess with all that and sort it out.
 

Torinate

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This is why I'm going to take it to a professional sound place as soon as I get my hood and stripes on. I'll have them mess with all that and sort it out.
That's what buzzes on mine is the vapor barrier. Only with certain frequencies that... Billie Eilish Bad Guy comes to mind...
 
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Dave2013M3

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My chimp 6 speaker system sounds great to me too. Bass is non existent but I don't mind that at all.

Do the Forscan mods for the EQ setting and it will bring some of the bass back. In fact the 6spkr setup in my opinion sounded better than the 9 spkr due to the terrible imaging of the center channel which is a farce in this car.
 

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MCS

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That's what buzzes on mine is the vapor barrier. Only with certain frequencies that... Billie Eilish Bad Guy comes to mind...
For me, it's any shuffle music or any of that chill music you listen to on Youtube?

80s rock/metal? Nope
Symphonic Metal? Nope
Some modern pop-type stuff? Nope

Literally just anything with a beat below like 80-100hz.
 

m3incorp

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There should be absolutely no reason to do any splices. There are harnesses for plug and play of every component you would need to replace. Having said that, the cost and intensity to get it to sound right, may not be worth it to some people.

Thanks for your time to chime in guys. I’m almost willing to just live with this shitty sound for the sake of not having to tear apart my interior and cut/splice wires. I don’t care what anyone says, even if Jesus himself did an extensive audio overhaul, things are just never the same. Panel clips break, the speakers you want are never just drop in’s, splices are what they are and can be an open door to issues if not done right. I know I sound pessimistic, but even with using highly reputable shops, there were always issues with my installs.
I’ll research the Forscan fix. Unless there’s a plug n play fix, I’ll just enjoy the beautiful sound of my Coyote.
 

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Brothers and sisters, the key to good sound out of a crappy factory head unit is a Line Output Converter
https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/what-are-line-output-converters.html

I have had too much joy without touching my Mustang audio at all but I have a GREAT system on my daily civic.

I saw I could never give up my touchscreen unit containing the car radio/head unit so I learned how to make the best of it. Changing just the speakers doesn't solve the problem of the crap feeding them. Adding a sweet amp is like taking a crappy mix of a live band, feeding the whole thing to a mic and turning it up louder. Garbage in. Garbage out.

A line output converter digitally re-processes the junk coming from the factory head unit and turns it into gold for inputting to an amp. I did this, replaced all the speakers and added a compact powered sub in the hatch. Night and Day!!!! I don't need to rattle your ass 2 blocks away but I can decapitate myself and get M80 bass thumping in my chest at 1/4 volume. Best of all, it sounds incredible at LOW volume. That's the best review I can give a system. Anyone can get loud. Clear and quiet is just great on a normal day

I might do this again in the stang - Say what you will about synch 3 but it's stable AF. So many factory touch screens try WAY too hard with features and lag the shite out of them. If I upgrade this one, I'll keep the factory system.
 

StangTime

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Brothers and sisters, the key to good sound out of a crappy factory head unit is a Line Output Converter
https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/what-are-line-output-converters.html

I have had too much joy without touching my Mustang audio at all but I have a GREAT system on my daily civic.

I saw I could never give up my touchscreen unit containing the car radio/head unit so I learned how to make the best of it. Changing just the speakers doesn't solve the problem of the crap feeding them. Adding a sweet amp is like taking a crappy mix of a live band, feeding the whole thing to a mic and turning it up louder. Garbage in. Garbage out.

A line output converter digitally re-processes the junk coming from the factory head unit and turns it into gold for inputting to an amp. I did this, replaced all the speakers and added a compact powered sub in the hatch. Night and Day!!!! I don't need to rattle your ass 2 blocks away but I can decapitate myself and get M80 bass thumping in my chest at 1/4 volume. Best of all, it sounds incredible at LOW volume. That's the best review I can give a system. Anyone can get loud. Clear and quiet is just great on a normal day

I might do this again in the stang - Say what you will about synch 3 but it's stable AF. So many factory touch screens try WAY too hard with features and lag the shite out of them. If I upgrade this one, I'll keep the factory system.
I beg to differ. A line output converter is not required. The ACM puts out a respectable 2.7V unclipped variable line level at full volume. Even the base model 6 speaker system can be re-programmed with Forscan to change it's speaker level outputs to line level. Add a T harness and go to town with whatever DSP/amp and speaker combo you like.
 

Evolvd

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I beg to differ. A line output converter is not required. The ACM puts out a respectable 2.7V unclipped variable line level at full volume. Even the base model 6 speaker system can be re-programmed with Forscan to change it's speaker level outputs to line level. Add a T harness and go to town with whatever DSP/amp and speaker combo you like.
You beat me to it. LOCs are about as basic as you get when there are so many better options for our cars.
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