Thinking of coming back, just which Engine

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Both of you make great points, although with my old Mustang, I was too lead footed and it was a drop top, so it wasn't an MPG Machine. Also have to wait for my Audi to sell, think I got a bit too ambitious with the price figuring someone would like it and wanna come in with what I really want to sell it for

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My old dyno with my old 2.3t, that was without a DP/Exhaust, stock wastegate actuator and with a custom tune by a general tuner, so I know the 2.3's potential, though the HPP does seem interesting

Quick question, whats the limit on the stock clutches, or does the 2.3 and 5.0 have the same one?
Stock Mt-82 clutch? Probably around 500-600. All depends on how worn it is already.





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Rogues Gambit

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Stock Mt-82 clutch? Probably around 500-600. All depends on how worn it is already.
I'm thinking new, especially if i cant find the one im looking for

my opinion is you’ll regret an ecoboost. Get a GT. Pp1 or PP2.
PP1, as they dont have 2 for the vert

That looks like a typical 93 octane tune, on your Eco. The stock clutches are different on the Eco & GT. Clutch life is very dependant on the driver. Torque and driver technique is what will most shorten the clutch life. On stock or lightly modified cars, you can get good life out of them as long as your not hard on them or doing a lot of high rpm dragstrip style launches. The more torque you make, the harder you launch, and the more city driving you do, the shorter the clutch life.
Of course, also have a st2 b7 a4 with a st1 clutch, all too familiar with it

Hopefully i get a bite on my car soon
 

Idaho2018GTPremium

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The major Ecoboost vs GT differences are:
1. The Eco is lighter and has better balanced handling.
2. The Eco is less expensive to purchase, insure, and fuel.
3. The GT makes sweet V-8 sounds
and is just plain louder, while the Eco is quieter and without the active exhaust sounds like a Camry.
4. They have vastly different power delivery. The Eco makes peak torque at about 2800 RPM & peak HP at about 5500 RPM. The redline is 6500, but the power declines rapidly above 6000. The GT makes peak torque at 4650 & peak HP at 7,000 and will scream to it's 7500 redline.
After owning 5 previous V-8 Mustangs, I bought a base 2018 A10 Eco, for my daily driver. It stickered for $28,865, with a just a few options, and I paid $22,800 for it, excluding taxes & DMV fees. I love the ride vs handling compromise of it, on my battered northeastern roads. A similarly equipped GT would've cost about 10k more. I prefer the quieter exhaust and subdued color, because when I'm racing around, it draws less attention. Also, no doubt the GT makes sweeter sounds, but after spending 30+ years flying very loud airplanes, I'm just over the noise. Although, plenty of guys buy the GT over the Eco, just for that V-8 sound alone. Next, I prefer low end torque over high rpm power, especially for a daily driver. The GT feels kinda week down low, while the Eco, especially the 18+ A10, is a torque monster. I just felt like the Eco had much more legally useable power, to have fun with, while with the GT I'd be over the speed limit so much, to have fun with the Coyote power.
I bought a base Eco, to keep it light and cheap. It's a 100A, with the only options being the A10, a paint upgrade and 18" wheels and tires. This is the best way to equip it for a low price, MPGs, and acceleration. My stock car will 0-60 in 5.0 secs, 1/4 mile in the 13.20s, and consistently get at least 35 mpg at 70 mph. My best MPG was 40.7. What other car can offer this level of performance and economy?
Also, if I wanted to get GT acceleration, while retaining Eco MPGs, I could do it with about $2,000 in mods: air filter, intercooler, Cobb Accessport, an E-30 pro tune, drag radials, and rear wheels. I have a friend, with a 2016 A6 Eco, with that combo, that dynoed at 377 WHP & 455 torque. He runs 12.20s on the stock 235/50/18 all season tires. He's a very good driver and can consistently
60 ft in the 1.70s, on a prepped track, with the stock tires. I love my car, but the GT is great too. I certainly thought about it alot, before buying. Pay your money, and buy what makes you smile. Best of luck.
Your summary was fine, except for the torque and acceleration comments (sort of):

The Gen 3 Coyote has more low end torque than the Ecoboost, and gobs more mid range torque (i.e., 4000 rpm). What I think people are referring to and what fools people when they drive the Ecoboost and feel that low end torque is part throttle low-end torque. Due to the non-linear nature of throttle response with a turbo, 50% throttle might bring 80%+ of the engine torque, because boost is being applied. Floor it further and there's very little difference in engine response because a significant amount of boost is already produced. Whereas, with a naturally aspirated engine, 50% throttle might only bring 50-60% of the torque for a given engine speed (depending on throttle mapping, of course). That throttle response confuses people and makes people think the Ecoboost is stronger than the Gen 3 Coyote down low, but in reality, the Coyote is stronger (look at stock vs stock dynos). There's one caveat in that I don't know how much torque the Ecoboost is making at say, 1800 rpm, vs. the Coyote at 1800 rpm. But, who buys a sports car for torque at 1800 rpm?

Regarding acceleration - I'm curious what your friend's trap speed is? While a 12.2 e.t. is great for an Ecoboost (although there's a number of stock A10 GTs in the high 11s without drag radials), I am skeptical that those few mods could make up a 21 mph trap speed difference and the all out acceleration potential difference between a stock A10 Ecoboost and A10 GT. For comparison, Car and Driver tested both A10 2018 Mustangs (GT and Ecoboost). The GT did 60-100 mph in 4.7 seconds (0-60 in 3.8 sec and 0-100 in 8.5 sec) and the Ecoboost did 60-100 mph in 8.7 seconds (0-60 in 5.0 sec and 0-100 in 13.7 sec). That means that the GT accelerates nearly twice as quickly as an Ecoboost (1.85x quicker) when traction is no longer an issue. And that gap only grows as speed increases due to the extra hp the GT has to cut through the wind and road resistance: i.e., in that same test the GT did 100-130 mph in 6.3 seconds, while the Ecoboost took 12.4 seconds. That's 1.97x quicker for the GT, essentially, twice as quick.

Anyway, just something to consider, since Ford would very possibly deny a drivetrain warranty claim on a modified Ecoboost that still isn't as quick as a stock A10 GT.
 

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But, who buys a sports car for torque at 1800 rpm?
all the whingers going on incessantly about 6.8l and 7.3l engines for the Mustang.
Both the GT/EB are not worth comparing below 3000 RPM.
25-70mph is where people not wishing to immediately go to jail care about "performance" figures.

The Ford tune for the GT sucks considerably less than the GIANT SUCK-ass tune Ford puts on the 2.3EB. The HPP is really no better. If you want to actually enjoy the EB, buy the FRPP tune if you want to keep your warranty and peace of mind. Otherwise slap something like Unleashed Tuning's tune on there and experience what the engine can actually do. You can dabble with E30 for an increase in smile. I had my new off the showroom floor EB flashed within 2 weeks of ownership. The Ford factory tune is that despicable.
 
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jdsfly

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Your summary was fine, except for the torque and acceleration comments (sort of):

The Gen 3 Coyote has more low end torque than the Ecoboost, and gobs more mid range torque (i.e., 4000 rpm). What I think people are referring to and what fools people when they drive the Ecoboost and feel that low end torque is part throttle low-end torque. Due to the non-linear nature of throttle response with a turbo, 50% throttle might bring 80%+ of the engine torque, because boost is being applied. Floor it further and there's very little difference in engine response because a significant amount of boost is already produced. Whereas, with a naturally aspirated engine, 50% throttle might only bring 50-60% of the torque for a given engine speed (depending on throttle mapping, of course). That throttle response confuses people and makes people think the Ecoboost is stronger than the Gen 3 Coyote down low, but in reality, the Coyote is stronger (look at stock vs stock dynos). There's one caveat in that I don't know how much torque the Ecoboost is making at say, 1800 rpm, vs. the Coyote at 1800 rpm. But, who buys a sports car for torque at 1800 rpm?

Regarding acceleration - I'm curious what your friend's trap speed is? While a 12.2 e.t. is great for an Ecoboost (although there's a number of stock A10 GTs in the high 11s without drag radials), I am skeptical that those few mods could make up a 21 mph trap speed difference and the all out acceleration potential difference between a stock A10 Ecoboost and A10 GT. For comparison, Car and Driver tested both A10 2018 Mustangs (GT and Ecoboost). The GT did 60-100 mph in 4.7 seconds (0-60 in 3.8 sec and 0-100 in 8.5 sec) and the Ecoboost did 60-100 mph in 8.7 seconds (0-60 in 5.0 sec and 0-100 in 13.7 sec). That means that the GT accelerates nearly twice as quickly as an Ecoboost (1.85x quicker) when traction is no longer an issue. And that gap only grows as speed increases due to the extra hp the GT has to cut through the wind and road resistance: i.e., in that same test the GT did 100-130 mph in 6.3 seconds, while the Ecoboost took 12.4 seconds. That's 1.97x quicker for the GT, essentially, twice as quick.

Anyway, just something to consider, since Ford would very possibly deny a drivetrain warranty claim on a modified Ecoboost that still isn't as quick as a stock A10 GT.
My thoughts about low end torque were regarding how the car feels. Yes, I know the GT makes 420 torque vs the Eco at 350, but it feels the other way around, because the Eco makes 350 at 2800 vs the GT at 4650. My friend's car does 12.20s on the stock, skinny all season radials. Many Ecos with drag radials, and similar mods, are in the 11s. In the 1/4 mile, the Eco is a front half car, where as the GT is a back half car. Once tuning a Ford engine, the warranty is a crap shoot. I'm just saying that for those that are comfortable with the risk, you can have GT 0-60 or 1/4 mile ETs, for alot less money. Pay your money & make your own choice.
 

shogun32

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AE, no. The same $1000 can get you the exhaust of your choice.
MR is harder to say. If you're changing suspension then you better be planning on 3000-5000 price bracket to get the good stuff. Otherwise stick with MR and if you're a track rat buy a MR tuner.
 
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AE, no. The same $1000 can get you the exhaust of your choice.
MR is harder to say. If you're changing suspension then you better be planning on 3000-5000 price bracket to get the good stuff. Otherwise stick with MR and if you're a track rat buy a MR tuner.
Gotcha. At most im planning on doing sway bars, and MAYBE shocks, as my old girl i had to get back oem springs due to being too low
 

shogun32

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I should probably have clarified that there are some decent suspension packages available in the $1300-1700 bracket. The FRPP Track+BMR SP083 combo, or the Bilstein with same spring, or if track is your thing the Steeda Dual-rate Springs+pro-Action adjustables. But unless you're really gonna get heavily involved in suspension, hitting the EASY button by paying $1600 for the Magneride is likely good enough.

While BMR/Steeda have sales from time to time, a 20% discount from Ford when you buy the car off the show-room floor is hard to argue against and also doesn't incur downtime nor labor charges.
 

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