The Photography Hangout Thread

[BrettT]

This is only true for mirrorless cameras. DSLR's won't show the exposure until you've actually taken the shot. One of the perks of the mirrorless is that exposure preview but it isn't a deal-breaker IMO. I shoot with both now(Nikon D750 and Z6).

To me more clear. I am not referring to live view, I am referring to the viewfinder information on DSLR's. At the bottom of the viewfinder, there is information on a number of things usually including shutter, aperture and an under/over exposure bar across the bottom. Now it's possible not all DSLR's have all the same info, and some have much more. But the above is basic info, which should be on most.

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[JAH1991]

thank you all for the advice. Automotive photography is always something I've wanted to get in to and I'm so eager to learn!

 

[BrettT]

As someone who has been doing photography for about 8 years and am pretty heavily invested and active with it as a hobby for the past 3 years, I never worry about white balance. If you're shooting RAW with the intent to edit the images yourself, then you really don't need to worry about it much. For JPEG, you're probably best just leaving it in Auto.

Focus on shutter speed and aperture first and foremost. It's not a big deal to let auto focus do its thing, but maybe keep it in "point focus" so you can decide what object in the frame your focusing on. I really only use manual focus when I'm doing something fancy or in low light situations where the auto focus can't grab onto anything.

I basically never touched ISO until I upgraded to my X-T2 because the D5100 before that would create a total shit image at any ISO over 400, so I had to figure out ways to work around it. Now with the X-T2, I can go up to 6000 or even a bit more without much noise in the image. Pretty incredible.

Also, "Spray and Pray" is a fine method to start out with as long as you pay attention to what you like and dislike about the photos you take and learn from that so you can get to the point (after a pretty long time) of only taking a handful of photos knowing the composition will be good enough. But when I first started, I just took shitloads of photos and spent the time culling them to find the good ones and determine what it was about the "good ones" that made them "good" so I could reduce the amount of shots I take of a subject.

Eventually you'll get to the point that you can imagine what the outcome of the image is in your head before you even take the picture, then you'll be at the point where you understand what each setting does and how it affects the composition, etc and you can spend less time taking multiple shots of the same subject because you don't know what will ultimately look the best.

Shooting your car is the perfect starting point since it provides you a definite subject. That's exactly how I started out. Now I dabble in everything from landscapes, to surrealism, to street photography, architecture, car photos, whatever. Always fun to explore.

Again lot of good stuff here. I only shoot RAW, but would suggest RAW/JPEG to start. This way you have the finished JPEG and the RAW copy to play with. As for ISO, I would set it to the camera default to start with. I rarely set mine to Auto, unless I'm shooting fast action, where you are panning the camera and the light is changing. Also agree with focusing, unless you are shooting sports where there is a lot of movement, I pretty much use spot/centre focus. Placing the centre spot over the subject, half press the shutter to get focus lock, recompose and fully depress the shutter....

I also leave WB in auto. Your light is constantly changing, so why not have the WB adjust with it. With RAW, it's easy to fix. If you are in a controlled environment (studio), then sure you can take test shots and set it in camera, knowing you will have consistent lighting....

DSLR's have created a lot of lazy photographer's who use the "spray and Play", "machine gun" technique, rather than seeing the picture in your head and composing it. Again, unless it's sports/action, I only shoot single frame.

For the record, I'm and old guy who's first SLR was a Zenit E (still have it) in 1972, totally manual....that's why I tend to shoot the way I do, with control over the camera....

Photography is like many hobbies, rewarding and also frustrating, but when you nail one!

And if you get serious, get a printer. There is nothing more rewarding than printing it out.....

 

[Grimace427]

To me more clear. I am not referring to live view, I am referring to the viewfinder information on DSLR's. At the bottom of the viewfinder, there is information on a number of things usually including shutter, aperture and an under/over exposure bar across the bottom. Now it's possible not all DSLR's have all the same info, and some have much more. But the above is basic info, which should be on most.

Right I'm not referring to live view either. The exposure estimate you're referring to can be useful but it doesn't give a comprehensive exposure preview like a mirrorless will. When looking through the viewfinder(EVF) on a mirrorless you actually see what the image will look like at your settings whereas with a DSLR you are seeing the light of your scene as it is with the aperture wide open and no shutter.

 

[BrettT]

Right I'm not referring to live view either. The exposure estimate you're referring to can be useful but it doesn't give a comprehensive exposure preview like a mirrorless will. When looking through the viewfinder(EVF) on a mirrorless you actually see what the image will look like at your settings whereas with a DSLR you are seeing the light of your scene as it is with the aperture wide open and no shutter.

I'm not sure your point here. My original comment is still valid. If your want to learn and understand photography, set the camera to base ISO, and to "M" mode. This now forces you to think about the picture you are taking and what you want. You will likely start by taking a lot of under/over exposed pictures, but you will learn. Or, just put in full auto and let the camera take what it thinks you want..

So nothing in my original comment changes, with an optical viewfinder, you use the scale across the bottom to get you an indication if your image is under exposed, correctly exposed or overexposed (based on the camera). Now you may want to under or overexpose for artistic reasons, but with an optical viewfinder that is what you have.

And I do know the difference between an optical viewfinder and an electronic viewfinder I have both a Sony A850 and A99M2, both FF cameras one with an optical viewfinder and one with electronic.

I originally agreed with everything you said and just added my knowledge. While my original post could have been clearer it was not incorrect....

Happy shooting.......

 

[Grimace427]

I'm not sure your point here. My original comment is still valid. If your want to learn and understand photography, set the camera to base ISO, and to "M" mode. This now forces you to think about the picture you are taking and what you want. You will likely start by taking a lot of under/over exposed pictures, but you will learn. Or, just put in full auto and let the camera take what it thinks you want..

So nothing in my original comment changes, with an optical viewfinder, you use the scale across the bottom to get you an indication if your image is under exposed, correctly exposed or overexposed (based on the camera). Now you may want to under or overexpose for artistic reasons, but with an optical viewfinder that is what you have.

And I do know the difference between an optical viewfinder and an electronic viewfinder I have both a Sony A850 and A99M2, both FF cameras one with an optical viewfinder and one with electronic.

I originally agreed with everything you said and just added my knowledge. While my original post could have been clearer it was not incorrect....

Happy shooting.......

Good deal, just want to make sure the new shooters don't assume what they see in their optical viewfinder is what their image will look like.

When I'm shooting with my D750 I'm either in Manual with auto ISO or Aperture priority at base ISO(assuming good lighting) and let the camera figure the exposure since it is very good at metering. Since there is so much to think about in photography letting the camera figure out one point of the exposure triangle just makes it easier for me to focus on composition or lol focus.


Which reminds me, anyone new to photography should look up the Exposure Triangle as this is the basic fundamental aspect of photography. This is what makes the image, what makes the image nice to look at comes later.

 

[BrettT]

Good deal, just want to make sure the new shooters don't assume what they see in their optical viewfinder is what their image will look like.

When I'm shooting with my D750 I'm either in Manual with auto ISO or Aperture priority at base ISO(assuming good lighting) and let the camera figure the exposure since it is very good at metering. Since there is so much to think about in photography letting the camera figure out one point of the exposure triangle just makes it easier for me to focus on composition or lol focus.


Which reminds me, anyone new to photography should look up the Exposure Triangle as this is the basic fundamental aspect of photography. This is what makes the image, what makes the image nice to look at comes later.

,

I would say approx. 80% of the time I shoot aperture priority, and then 10-15% Manual (usually on a tripod) and the balance shutter priority. ISO is set at base (100 in the A99M2), and I only increase it if I have to. Spot focus, because I know what I want the focus point to be.... These modern camera's have a lot of s..t in then, and are amazingly versatile.....

 

[BrettT]

Here's a couple taken downtown Vancouver early one cool damp January Sunday morning.

Want to get the Bullitt down there and get a shot of it on these streets......

 

[myboostedgst]

Shot some ice racing this past weekend. Friends 5DIV and 300mm F2.8 IS I. Since I sold my Nikon stuff I am down to a very limited setup (6D, 135L and 17-40). After the mods to the car this winter, I will be building my kit back up again. Until then I will just continue to borrow his stuff.

Steel Shoe Fund 2019 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Steel Shoe Fund 2019 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

 

[FreedomPenguin]

I picked up a cheap DSLR and shot a few photos of my car. I have a lot to learn and any advice will be appreciated!

This is a beautiful car, is this a gt or a Ecoboost? I am having hard time reading the side badging.
You should do a build thread with the mods you've done as it looks awesome! would love to see the rear of that car as well and a side shot.

 

[BrettT]

This is a beautiful car, is this a gt or a Ecoboost? I am having hard time reading the side badging.
You should do a build thread with the mods you've done as it looks awesome! would love to see the rear of that car as well and a side shot.

Looks like an Ecoboost. The side badge says 2.3T

 

[myboostedgst]

I shot some more ice racing this past weekend, but this time cars. Tons of Subarus.

Website 6 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

 

[myboostedgst]

I also updated my website to include some new photos from 2018. Here are some of my other favorites currently on my website. Would appreciate any comments on the website as well.

www.andrewsmithphoto.com

Website 4 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Website 5 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Website 3 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Website 1 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Website 4 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Website 2 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

Website 5 by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

 

[Grimace427]

Love the action and on-track shots!

 

[myboostedgst]

Shot BMX for the first time. I used to ride a ton but havent since I picked up the DSLR. Fun to get back out there.

Corey @ 4seasons by Andrew Smith, on Flickr

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