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The horrible paint quality thread

MrCincinnati

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The paint does suck. I refuse to invest thousands protecting it because it’s such a crap paint job to begin with. Within the first month or so of ownership I just accepted it for what it is and know I’ll get it stripped and resprayed properly in a few years.

For comparison (cheap base car to cheap base car) the paint on my Charger isn’t perfect — but it’s much better in all categories (sans orange peel).
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rick81721

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Reminder: You bought a $25K car w/$35K engine.

IMO, the paint is fine but I can relate to your complaints as well. Things like this are what you trade for performance. An M4 is roughly $15 more and I'm sure, like anything else, it's not perfect either.

Take your car to the track, it'll show you where your money went. Most of all, it might help you minimize these little issues.

https://www.drcolorchip.com
Someone said the same thing to me. It's a mustang, not a Ferrari. Drive it and enjoy it.
 

SVTinAR

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Paint quality and body panel fit could definitely be better. The pass side front fender edge sits above the hood line, and the driver door is set in from the front fender on my car. Not terrible issues but compared to my wife's Toyota they are not good. Since this body was introduced in 2015 your would think Ford would have addressed and improved most of these type issues.

Noticed yesterday what appear to be some small marks and impressions under the paint on the area of the rear bumper cover just below the tail lights in the corner. Almost look like some damage that was painted over - definitely below the surface. Pretty sure the rear cover hasn't been repainted as I'm pretty good at detecting paint work. Not even sure how anyone could damage that particular area by accident. Oh - and I noticed the rear bumper gap has increased in the 600 miles since I've had the car.

And the paint texture (orange peel) is worse than I would hope for. Fortunately the Race Red paint is so bright and brilliant out in the sun that none of this is readily apparent.
 
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UnhandledException

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Lots of trial and error!

Mainly i touched up all the chips and drips(Dr color chip kit), then polished and protected. Having the right tools is the key. I have a porter cable double action polisher and a good assortment of pads to match the polish your using. For the 16 I used Menzerna medium cut 2400 with a orange lake country pad. That got out most of the paint imperfections after a couple passes. There were a couple locations I wet sanded prior to polishing. Sanding new paint sounds scary but it's really not if you are cautious and research. That said you can easily do permanent damage so best left to pros if you have concerns. The finishing polish will take the sand paper scratches out. Next I polished with Menzerna 3500 using a white finishing pad.

After all the polishing I sealed it up with a couple coats of Wolfgang deep gloss sealant. It's been close to two years and it's time for some maintenance. I'll give it a good clay job, polish with 3500 and give it a coat of CQuartz. I was Leary about applying CQuartz but I used it on my s2k with exceptional results.

I buy all my detail products from autogeek, there is a plethora of information on their website and in the forums.
Thank you for your post. I'm much more of a beginner with this and haven't done more than claying and using Wolfgang's deep gloss sealant to any of my cars. This is primarily because it takes so much time. Yesterday I spent 5 hours washing, claying, washing, and drying the car. Today I spent 2-3 hours applying the sealant and buffing it out. Tomorrow I will add another coat of sealant.

Claying and applying the sealant both take an enormous amount of time and I have gotten pretty good at it after doing it many times so its not me.

Question I have is, is using a polisher quicker/better? How long does it take you to fully wash/prep/polish the car?
 
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UnhandledException

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Also for the rest of the people in this thread telling me just to enjoy it. I think you guys are not reading my OP or don't know me. I am not a waxer and I actually do enjoy this car probably more than most everyone else here. I daily drive it, I drove across country in the summer, and I will drive it in snow/ice. This post wasn't about "oh I feel upset because my shiny new car isnt shiny". This post is about pure maintainability and life span of the body panels from a rust perspective. Period. I couldnt care less if there are micro scratches and swirls everywhere. I am just afraid with my driving habits, the car will not last.

Therefore, while I appreciate your sentiments about telling me to enjoy the car. You guys are already telling me what I know and follow. No issues there.

Thanks.
 

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SpursFan

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Thank you for your post. I'm much more of a beginner with this and haven't done more than claying and using Wolfgang's deep gloss sealant to any of my cars. This is primarily because it takes so much time. Yesterday I spent 5 hours washing, claying, washing, and drying the car. Today I spent 2-3 hours applying the sealant and buffing it out. Tomorrow I will add another coat of sealant.

Claying and applying the sealant both take an enormous amount of time and I have gotten pretty good at it after doing it many times so its not me.

Question I have is, is using a polisher quicker/better? How long does it take you to fully wash/prep/polish the car?
Detailing a car correctly is a time consuming process. For just applying sealant you don't need any type of polisher but it certainly speeds things up and is (IMO) easier on the arms. To truly correct the paint and clean out imperfections, scratches and swirls you need a double action polisher with the right pads and polishes. With those tools you can really transform paint(you can also damage it!).

I probably spent 15 or so hours on my 2016 doing the intial correction and seal. I can easily see a solid day on the new R but comparing the roof (TY with painted roof) of my 16 to the 17 is like a mirror vs a car with 10yo paint!

Checkout autogeek, with all the resources they have they can make anyone a pro!
 

Nicky Pass

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I have some factory flaws, but overall, it's on par with any other car I've owned. My Dad has a 2018 Z06 and it is just as flawed. I rarely drive my car, if it was perfect, I'd probably never drive it. I've never seen a perfect car....

To make you feel better...
I have a spec of dirt under the paint on the front fender

A small scratch on the roof and one just above the door handle, both which I've compinded and buffed to about 90% gone.

There are ripples all over this car....by the door handles and on the front fenders where the vent is punched in.

My stripes....if you look at them wrong, they micro scratch.
 

snaproll

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Meh - maybe I am the only one happy with the paint and finish quality. Other than a dealer inflicted scratch and a sheet metal deformity under the Gt350badge which the dent guy massaged, I think the paint exceeds its rental car roots. Bwtfdik.
 

1quickcoupe

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I feel your pain. I have a 2k mile 17 GT Ruby Red, I know it’s not a Shelby but same paint . I already have around 20 paint chips to the metal on the roof and sides of the car. Every time I drive it it chips somewhere. The dealer did a paint test last week and said it failed. That the primer wasn’t holding. I have an appointment Friday to see what the next step is. They want to do I repaint. I don’t agree at all.
 
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UnhandledException

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I feel your pain. I have a 2k mile 17 GT Ruby Red, I know it’s not a Shelby but same paint . I already have around 20 paint chips to the metal on the roof and sides of the car. Every time I drive it it chips somewhere. The dealer did a paint test last week and said it failed. That the primer wasn’t holding. I have an appointment Friday to see what the next step is. They want to do I repaint. I don’t agree at all.
Can you elaborate what this test is? I'd be happy for a full respray since I am going to keep the car. Maybe I should pursue this angle.
 

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UnhandledException

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Aren't these paint issues all the more reason to do a full xpel wrap though? Sorry I know I am bringing up an old topic and most said its waste of money, but think about the cost and headache of just respraying 1 panel. It's $2500 for me to wrap rest of the car vs probably $1000-1500 to respray each panel (plus redoing the xpel of the adjacent panel as that will have to be thrown out for paint blending).
 

SVTinAR

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It does have to be kept in perspective. I remember my first brand car was a silver 75 Trans Am and it had no paint coverage at all on one rocker panel. Had a Trans Am decal on one fender and not the other. The hood scope had a decal on one side only. Thin paint everywhere you looked. Even arrived with a door ding in it already and that was before the days of PDR. Dealer slapped side molding over it. I remember looking at the front fenders on 75 Monte Carlos back then and the waves and vends in the front fenders straight from GM. So things have improved over the years.
 

ZAMIRZ

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Aren't these paint issues all the more reason to do a full xpel wrap though? Sorry I know I am bringing up an old topic and most said its waste of money, but think about the cost and headache of just respraying 1 panel. It's $2500 for me to wrap rest of the car vs probably $1000-1500 to respray each panel (plus redoing the xpel of the adjacent panel as that will have to be thrown out for paint blending).
Not to mention, if you respray you risk loss-of-value. I agree that if paint and preserving originality for value are a concern then a full wrap is a total no-brainer. Or you could just not worry about it, treat it well, drive the wheels off the car and then have the badly affected areas resprayed. The smaller stuff you mention can be handled with some touch-up paint.
 

TRS7139

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It's worth a mention, from what I have seen with mine and a few others, some of this is paint specific, It looks like paint application and final finish tends to be to a higher level with the non metalic colors.
While I was not a major fan of the Grabber Blue, for instance, I have warmed to it and since I did most of the XPEL treatment myself I got to really get up close and personal with the finish. In my case it's pretty damned good considering Ford is a volume producer.
A little heavy a couple edges but quite even, no orange peel, over all not bad.
I have some of the panel fit issues to a modest extent, but, as has been said, these are not $150m cars.

P.S. On the XPEL one thing that is critically important.....you must not try this stuff until garage temps really get up into the 70's ideally. Cool weather makes everything tougher than it needs to be.
 

rick81721

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It's worth a mention, from what I have seen with mine and a few others, some of this is paint specific, It looks like paint application and final finish tends to be to a higher level with the non metalic colors.
While I was not a major fan of the Grabber Blue, for instance, I have warmed to it and since I did most of the XPEL treatment myself I got to really get up close and personal with the finish. In my case it's pretty damned good considering Ford is a volume producer.
A little heavy a couple edges but quite even, no orange peel, over all not bad.
I have some of the panel fit issues to a modest extent, but, as has been said, these are not $150m cars.

P.S. On the XPEL one thing that is critically important.....you must not try this stuff until garage temps really get up into the 70's ideally. Cool weather makes everything tougher than it needs to be.
Maybe I got lucky but my Lightning Blue paint looks great. Caveat I only have 600 miles on her and had Xpel applied on the hood, rocker panels, lights, front fenders and mirrors, and rear impact area a few days after getting her. And I haven't gone over the car with a magnifying glass either. Will see how it holds up.
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