Thank you Hellion

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noshine4mine

noshine4mine

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No BAP, just stock pump. I never had misfire until after I had the TT system installed. There was supposed to be a BAP but they never ordered it/installed it.

I cant find anywhere that says what a 2019 factory fuel pump flow rate is.

Closest I can find is an article saying 2011+ are 217LPH and running a calculator it would need to flow 277LPH on 93 for 7PSI.

Hellion did send me an email saying 7 PSI on the stock pump with ID1050's is fine.
Which I find dubious.

Anyone want a 2019 PP1 N/A with wheels and Nitto DR? Only has 2 misfiring cylinders.
29k
No low balls

:)
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Mghoward74

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My thought are when you build a car, always do the fuel system and power adder together at the same time. I hear some guys are completely satisfied with ID 1050x on a FI build, but I would step it up one, just for my piece of mind. A minimum ID1300 for example.

You’re definitely in for a very long wait for a built motor, specially if you’re going with a long block. Shortblocks might be different, but then that’s where the real el problem starts. Tearing down the motor, keeping track of parts, putting thing back together…Jeesh

i kinda feel for the guys who blow their gen 1 and 2 motors, cause Ford is not making those anymore.

good luck
 

Zrussian13

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I had some bap issues early on and Lund told me to stay out of boost until I got it fixed. I beat the hell out of my gt anyway but did a lot of logging and my fuel pressure and afr never dropped lower than normal with out the bap. I'm on the smaller springs in my wastegates though. I might have had issues running a few more lbs of boost.
 

wazslow

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Who tuned the car? If the car truly never saw more than 7lbs of boost, I am surprised you hurt the engine. Were you there when the car was dynoed?
 
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noshine4mine

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I was not there for the Dyno tuning. I would prefer not to say who did it. I have no proof they caused the problem. Also, it was missing ever since I picked the car up and I havent done any full pulls in it yet, only stabbing it and letting out.
They want me to bring it back so they can look at it. I will take it back this weekend. hopefully I will know more next week.
 

wazslow

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I was not there for the Dyno tuning. I would prefer not to say who did it. I have no proof they caused the problem. Also, it was missing ever since I picked the car up and I havent done any full pulls in it yet, only stabbing it and letting out.
They want me to bring it back so they can look at it. I will take it back this weekend. hopefully I will know more next week.
I only mention the dyno because people have hooked up wastegates incorrectly and made way too much boost before. Not saying that happened in your case, but its a possibility. Doesn't take much to hurt something when running pumpgas on these cars.
 

Zrussian13

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I only mention the dyno because people have hooked up wastegates incorrectly and made way too much boost before. Not saying that happened in your case, but its a possibility. Doesn't take much to hurt something when running pumpgas on these cars.
I like your theory but I would imagine if the wastegates were hooked up incorrectly the car would have made more that 660hp before it lost compression. Unless it went really lean and failed quick. Maybe the car was already loosing compression prior to install and the added HP was the finishing touch.

OP- I'm betting your car was boosting more than 7lbs. I'm running the smaller springs and hellion says the 5lb springs will put 7lbs to the engine while the larger 7lb springs actually put 9lbs to the engine. I asked Lund during my tuning if they knew how much boost it was making and based off of my logs the thought I was right about 6-7. I just installed my boost gauge yesterday finally and I know the pp1 boost gauge is inferred but I'm reading right about 6-7 lbs so it seems accurate. If I had to guess you were probably more like 8-9lbs. Probably too much for the stock pump without a BAP. Hopefully you get everything straightened out with out too much headache.
 

wazslow

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I like your theory but I would imagine if the wastegates were hooked up incorrectly the car would have made more that 660hp before it lost compression. Unless it went really lean and failed quick. Maybe the car was already loosing compression prior to install and the added HP was the finishing touch.

OP- I'm betting your car was boosting more than 7lbs. I'm running the smaller springs and hellion says the 5lb springs will put 7lbs to the engine while the larger 7lb springs actually put 9lbs to the engine. I asked Lund during my tuning if they knew how much boost it was making and based off of my logs the thought I was right about 6-7. I just installed my boost gauge yesterday finally and I know the pp1 boost gauge is inferred but I'm reading right about 6-7 lbs so it seems accurate. If I had to guess you were probably more like 8-9lbs. Probably too much for the stock pump without a BAP. Hopefully you get everything straightened out with out too much headache.
I more meant that a pull was made on higher boost with either the wrong springs or incorrectly hooked up wastegates. The engine may have gotten hurt, then the boost was corrected to the 7lb level. Just a theory. Its anyone's guess at this point.
 

Zrussian13

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I more meant that a pull was made on higher boost with either the wrong springs or incorrectly hooked up wastegates. The engine may have gotten hurt, then the boost was corrected to the 7lb level. Just a theory. Its anyone's guess at this point.
Yeah thats possible. And your right at this point it's all speculation. We are all just trying to figure out what happened. Sucks to see someone loose their engine so early on....
 

lightrules

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on a side note, any of you hellion guys ceramic coat hot side parts? or just leave it as-is?
 

Zrussian13

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on a side note, any of you hellion guys ceramic coat hot side parts? or just leave it as-is?
I left it as is but I'm low mount so not a lot of hot side piping. Made it through 10k miles in the Arizona heat this summer. No issues.
 

Mghoward74

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on a side note, any of you hellion guys ceramic coat hot side parts? or just leave it as-is?
I use header wrap

PP1’s don’t have boost gauge. You can use a ecoboost gauge to monitor boost. It monitors vacuum and boost, up to 30 psi. You can only use the stock ecoboost gauge on PP1 and 2
 

bankyf

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I was not there for the Dyno tuning. I would prefer not to say who did it. I have no proof they caused the problem. Also, it was missing ever since I picked the car up and I havent done any full pulls in it yet, only stabbing it and letting out.
They want me to bring it back so they can look at it. I will take it back this weekend. hopefully I will know more next week.
Meh... While I don't know the entire situation, no credible installer and/or tuner should have let that car go on the dyno with no fuel system improvements without strongly cautioning you against it.
 
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noshine4mine

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Meh... While I don't know the entire situation, no credible installer and/or tuner should have let that car go on the dyno with no fuel system improvements without strongly cautioning you against it.
I am with you on this. Extra fuel is just a default when boosting.

I am not even entirely sure it has the 7psi spring like Zrussian13 said I might have the 5 PSI spring and getting 7. or they tried the 7 PSI spring and got 9 psi and figured out that wasnt possible without fuel. The original deal was supposed to include a BAP. unfortunately I am dealing with a friend and dont want to make anyones life harder than it already is.
 

JimC

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I had the single Hellion kit on my 2013 and had a problem with overboosting (lost 3 engines, first was a bad tune in addition to probably overboosting). I had the 7lb spring in and was making >15 lbs of boost. Had to put a 3 lb spring in as I recall to get 7 lbs of boost.
Hellion never figured out why I was getting double+ on boost.
 
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