Talk me down from blowing a ton of cash on mods!

[ice445]

Thanks, guys. Awesome input all around. Taking this all into account, I think I have a better perspective now.

I just ordered the PP strut tower/K brace. Wheels/tires will come next. Are there other PP braces that the base car is missing?

The BMR cradle lockout kit seems like a must-do mod but I don't want to have to get the car re-aligned over again so I'll hold off until I make a decision about the rest of the suspension.

So...I'm going to cool my jets and see how I like it before I invert my wallet and begin shaking. Again, thanks.



Can I just say...I am still in the engine break-in period but I've dipped into the power band just a little...and this car is a beast. Even with the 3.55 axle, it just rips. As much as the suspension/chassis stuff is a bummer, that engine is living up to my expectations.

When the 2015s first came out, I was gapping stock S550 GTs on the street with my 6spd 2011 (93 octane tune and some decent tires). Already, I can tell that the gen 3 coyote would absolutely walk my 2011.

Don't be afraid to let it eat during break-in, just make sure it's warmed up first and don't bounce off the limiter. Use common sense about it.

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[Kilo_5.0]

Thanks TJ for the feedback on the Steeda subframe connectors. Just placed the order, hopefully you piece of the pie for the order.

 

[shogun32]

Do these help with that, or they just help with wheel hop?

once braced the rear of the car actually feels like it's connected to the rest of the chassis.

 

[shogun32]

Don't be afraid to let it eat during break-in, just make sure it's warmed up first and don't bounce off the limiter. Use common sense about it.

But all the cool kids have videos and stuff showing the best way to break (in) a new GT500 that rolled off the trailer. Just floor it, after 3 min of idle as it rolled off the ramps, and then bounce it off the rev limiter for best ring seal.

Was I lied to? Man, I thought curated YouTube content meant all the 'false and misleading' videos were all taken down...

 

[GEBRONI]

welcome on the ownership of your new money pit ;-)

 

[FirstGT]

you mean the bolt kit? Where are you seeing over $50? BMR, Steeda, LMR are right around $50.

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...rough-Bolt-Upgrade-Kit-2015-2020_p_16657.html

Seems odd this one is double the price as others unless I'm looking at wrong item

 

[shogun32]

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-...rough-Bolt-Upgrade-Kit-2015-2020_p_16657.html

Seems odd this one is double the price as others unless I'm looking at wrong item

wrong kit. You want https://www.steeda.com/s550-diff-bushing-12.9-hardware-upgrade-kit.html but ASK to *make sure* it has the collars. Like you can see here. No collars, no point.
https://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-differential-hardware-upgrade-kit-1518.html

 

[Bluemustang]

IMO get good wheels/tires. Something decently wide - 9.5-11" wide. Get a square setup and sticky tires. Indy 500, MP4S, ECS are good places to start for decent summer tires.

Next, you really need to upgrade the suspension. Forget the Steeda "stop the hop" kit and just get the BMR CB005. With just that one part my wheel hop was gone.
Get the CB005 first, and then look into upgrading the dampers and springs. Where you want to go as far as springs depends on your goals. Spring rate, the ride height you want to achieve. I'd look into the Ford Performance track dampers or the Bilstein B6. Both quality dampers that will ride great on the street and plenty capable for track usage. These are the only two dampers (apart from coilovers) that are worth considering IMO. I hesitate to recommend a spring choice because I don't know what your intended purpose is.

Seriously, the car gets so much better after upgrading the suspension. You'll thank yourself later. Be careful though about falling prey to marketing BS in the suspension game. Follow others on here that know they're talking about.

Get the foundation right with wheels/tires and suspension and that will be a great start.

 

[BimmerDriver]

I'll probably get called a heretic, ridiculed and eventually banned from the forum, but if you want to make your car go faster and handle better, spend your money on HPDE. High Performance Driving Events. Some Mustang clubs do them, but don't forget BMW, Porsche and other marque clubs including Audi. Do a school where they actually have some classroom as well as in-car instruction. You don't want to do an open track day, where they let you go play. It's fun, but you don't learn anything. You want someone there to explain to you the dynamics of high performance car control, and to help you learn those new techniques.

You will not only make your Mustang faster and more enjoyable to drive, but every car you subsequently buy will be better and faster as well. Once you've got 10 or 20 schools under your belt, then you can start worrying about making the car more capable.

disclaimer: depending on the track(s) in your area, you may need to upgrade the brakes, at the very least the brake pads. But otherwise, your car is fine to go, as is.

 

[shogun32]

spend your money on HPDE

Yeah the meatbag in the seat is usually the weakest link. That said fixing the diff/irs so you can actually feel what the hell is going on back there and the shifter so you're not fighting the damn thing while stringing corners together is well worth it.

depending on the track(s) in your area,

NCCar is fun and interesting. Like Summit Point's Shenny.

 

[Bluelightning]

Do it. Blow the money. It will be fun!

 

[BimmerDriver]

The rear cradle movement under power/braking and even lateral loads is the worst offender. With that locked down the car is much better to drive and much better to learn on.

Cool video, Brian! Of course, all of the deflection and squirreling around is a compromise for comfort over handling. I presume. I guess I'll find out just how bad it is when I get my car out on the track.

 

[Kilo_5.0]

The bottom bracket is flexing like crazy. No wonder why the rear end walks around so much.
Thanks for that little clip showing that.

 

[Kermitz]

Steeda spring
barton or mgw short shift

im telling ya, that arm rest even though 100 bucks, so damn worth it.

I agree on the 5Spurs KR Armrest. It really makes shifting and driving around an M6 car so much more comfortable and enjoyable. I wish I would've gotten mine right from day one.

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