Suspension to Improve Traction when Wheel Hop is not an Issue

[ORANGEFURY44]

I am looking for ways to improve traction when wheel hop is not a concern. Does anybody have back to back data or even subjective opinions of a stop the hop style kit, braces, vertical links, bushings, etc. that helped make the car hook (not solving wheel hop) without going to drag springs or dampers?

The car is a 2019 GT Premium MagneRide PP1 with catless LTH, drop-in filter, x-pipe, E85, and previously had 275/40R19 NT555R2s. I have not suffered a lick of wheel hop since I got rid of the stock PS4S but struggle to get any better than a 2.0 60 ft regardless of drive mode even if I try to pedal it or let TC do its thing. If I do either of the latter, my trap and ET struggle so my best time is actually a 12.39 @ 119mph spinning through a 2.2 60ft on the 275/40R19s. The track that I go to does very little prep for the events that I attend so a lot of the Camaros, Challengers, other Mustangs, etc. that I have ran have similar 60 times so I am not necessarily slower than average but it still feels painfully slow.

I just put on some 305/45R17 NT555R2s that I will take to the track soon but based on a few street launches, my problems have not gone away. I am thinking I have a few options:
-Throw suspension parts at it - I have searched and searched and nobody seems to show back to back 60ft data of suspension goodies unless they had wheel hop issues but I feel like reducing suspension compliance should help plant the car.-Tire pressure - I ran as low as 15psi on the 275s at the track so it didn't work on those tires but in theory the 305s will respond better with the taller sidewall. Test pulls on the street were ran at 28psi.
-Alignment - I have not had the car aligned so maybe going near zero camber would help. Stock tires did not show much camber wear
-Tires - Put some E/T Street Rs on my new Forgestars, daily it on the stock wheels, and swap out for the track for the 100 mile roundtrip drive.
-Drag springs and/or dampers - I daily the car most days so I am hoping to avoid lowering the car and/or losing MagneRide but I am open to change.
-Learn to drive - Easier said than done...

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[Juggernaut]

I am not a fan of nittos and to me that's where your problem is.
Put a mickey, mh, or hoosier drag radial on it and be done.
11.60 @119 bone stock on a 275 m/t ss radial

 

[GrayMater22]

I am looking for ways to improve traction when wheel hop is not a concern. Does anybody have back to back data or even subjective opinions of a stop the hop style kit, braces, vertical links, bushings, etc. that helped make the car hook (not solving wheel hop) without going to drag springs or dampers?

The car is a 2019 GT Premium MagneRide PP1 with catless LTH, drop-in filter, x-pipe, E85, and previously had 275/40R19 NT555R2s. I have not suffered a lick of wheel hop since I got rid of the stock PS4S but struggle to get any better than a 2.0 60 ft regardless of drive mode even if I try to pedal it or let TC do its thing. If I do either of the latter, my trap and ET struggle so my best time is actually a 12.39 @ 119mph spinning through a 2.2 60ft on the 275/40R19s. The track that I go to does very little prep for the events that I attend so a lot of the Camaros, Challengers, other Mustangs, etc. that I have ran have similar 60 times so I am not necessarily slower than average but it still feels painfully slow.

I just put on some 305/45R17 NT555R2s that I will take to the track soon but based on a few street launches, my problems have not gone away. I am thinking I have a few options:
-Throw suspension parts at it - I have searched and searched and nobody seems to show back to back 60ft data of suspension goodies unless they had wheel hop issues but I feel like reducing suspension compliance should help plant the car.-Tire pressure - I ran as low as 15psi on the 275s at the track so it didn't work on those tires but in theory the 305s will respond better with the taller sidewall. Test pulls on the street were ran at 28psi.
-Alignment - I have not had the car aligned so maybe going near zero camber would help. Stock tires did not show much camber wear
-Tires - Put some E/T Street Rs on my new Forgestars, daily it on the stock wheels, and swap out for the track for the 100 mile roundtrip drive.
-Drag springs and/or dampers - I daily the car most days so I am hoping to avoid lowering the car and/or losing MagneRide but I am open to change.
-Learn to drive - Easier said than done...

One thing to consider besides tires as Juggernaut mentioned, is a stiffer rear sway bar. I have read and spoken to a friend of mine who used to race professionally in NHRA and he said it will make a noticeable difference in rear traction. This is something I am considering as well.

 

[shogun32]

why not just buy 17" wheels for the back? 'hook' is a function of sidewall deformation in response to sudden twist motion.

You can try 'drag' springs for the rear but I don't know if the MR tuning will fight you. The other thing to try is replace the rear MR shocks with emulators and put in actual drag shocks.

If you haven't reinforced your diff, I would do that before your next meal.

 

[vinny89gt]

It's hard for me to believe you don't have wheel hop. Just because the car "feels" different since you ditched the stock tires, doesn't mean you eliminated it.

It's relatively inexpensive and easy to test that theory with the Steeda IRS braces, or subframe alignment kits, or the CB005/CB762/CB010 etc.

Just my two cents, but I'd start there and then watch your 60' times improve.

 

[robvas]

Is it a stick?

 

[ORANGEFURY44]

It's hard for me to believe you don't have wheel hop. Just because the car "feels" different since you ditched the stock tires, doesn't mean you eliminated it.

It's relatively inexpensive and easy to test that theory with the Steeda IRS braces, or subframe alignment kits, or the CB005/CB762/CB010 etc.

Just my two cents, but I'd start there and then watch your 60' times improve.

You may be on to something so I went ahead and ordered the CB005. While it feels like just spin as it does not have any of the violent shaking that I felt on stock tires or some prior vehicles, it might be low enough intensity wheel hop that I have thought was just spin. It seems worth $200 to give it a shot, thanks.

 

[vinny89gt]

You may be on to something so I went ahead and ordered the CB005. While it feels like just spin as it does not have any of the violent shaking that I felt on stock tires or some prior vehicles, it might be low enough intensity wheel hop that I have thought was just spin. It seems worth $200 to give it a shot, thanks.

It's night and day from stock. You won't be disappointed.

 

[NGOT8R]

why not just buy 17" wheels for the back? 'hook' is a function of sidewall deformation in response to sudden twist motion.

You can try 'drag' springs for the rear but I don't know if the MR tuning will fight you. The other thing to try is replace the rear MR shocks with emulators and put in actual drag shocks.

If you haven't reinforced your diff, I would do that before your next meal.

I have a Magneride Bullitt with Shock Delete Engineering (SDE) emulators out back and KellTrack Ultra Spec Inverted double adjustable Viking shocks. The emulators have worked intermittently and as a result, have caused Suspension Fault Warnings - Speed Limited to 80 MPH. I am currently in the process of making my own emulators (about 3/4 of the way done). Here are a few pics Hopefully they will work much better than the SDE emulators.

I’ve also tried Mickey Thompson ET Street R radials and managed a 1.74 sixty once, a few 1.8s and several 2.0s. I’ve been very frustrated with my car’s performance, given all the mods that I have, but it’s tough to sixty a manual car. Here is the full list of mods:

Steeda suspension components

- Subframe braces
- Diff. bushing kit with through bolt kit (black bushings)
- Subframe bushing supports
- Hardcore diff. bracket
- Subframe alignment kit
- Adj. rear camber arms
- RLCA Spherical bearings
- Adj. toe links
- Billet vertical links (delrin bushings)
- 1 piece driveshaft
- Driveshaft safety loop
- Tri-ax Race shifter
- Adj. motor mounts (set to drag race configuration)
- Idler and tensioner pulleys

Other suspension/drivetrain components

- KellTrac Ultra Spec Viking Inverted double adjustable rear shocks
- Forgestar D5 17X10 beadlock drag wheels with 305/45/17 MT ET Street Radials and 18X5 front runner with MT radials
- Ford Performance half shafts

 

[ORANGEFURY44]

Just installed the CB005 and heading to the track tomorrow evening. It is a lot easier to move the subframe longitudinally than it is laterally and ratchet straps are way easier than using a pry bar.

Fingers crossed for a 1.X 60 and 11.XX ET.

 

[ORANGEFURY44]

why not just buy 17" wheels for the back? 'hook' is a function of sidewall deformation in response to sudden twist motion.

You can try 'drag' springs for the rear but I don't know if the MR tuning will fight you. The other thing to try is replace the rear MR shocks with emulators and put in actual drag shocks.

If you haven't reinforced your diff, I would do that before your next meal.

I bought 17in wheels with 305/45R17 NT555R2 and so far on the street they don't seem much better. I totally agree that more sidewall should equal better 60 times. I am going to the track tomorrow and will let you know how it goes. If it still doesn't hook I am torn between a track only DR and more suspension mods so I hope it goes well tomorrow.

 

[robvas]

What's your launch technique? Dumping it? Try slipping the heck out of it.

What is your front spring/strut setup?

do you have any slow motion videos of the car leaving the line?

why aren't you using a stiff wall like a QTP instead of a regular drag radial?

 

[ORANGEFURY44]

What's your launch technique? Dumping it? Try slipping the heck out of it.

What is your front spring/strut setup?

do you have any slow motion videos of the car leaving the line?

why aren't you using a stiff wall like a QTP instead of a regular drag radial?

It is an auto so I very lightly footbrake it. If I load the converter much at all it just spins. I have tried going ~3/4 throttle through first and it either acts like a dog or still spins.

It is stock Magneride suspension but in drag mode it seems to do a decent job at unloading the front. I am probably going to take out the front sway bar soon.

I don't have any close up videos at the track but definitely will next time I go out, that is a good idea.

I went 11.81s at 117mph with a 1.89 60 last night so definitely the quickest I have gone so far. I trapped 119 later in the night but conditions got worse so my 60s were in the 2.1 range.

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