Super 8.8 Pinion Preload with Carrier installed

[lxh89]

Does anyone know the preload torque measurement range for a pinion with the carrier/ring gear assembly installed?

I'm swapping my diff this weekend but need to change the pinion flange from a manual to Automatic. I measured the preload on the assembly straight from Ford Performance and its around 40 in/lb breakaway and 35 in/lb turning torque.

I know without the carrier/ring gear installed, it should be between 10-29 in/lbs turning torque.

I plan to swap the flange and just snug the pinion nut down until I get to 35 in/lb turning torque. Seems too easy to be honest but I'm thinking as long as I don't compress the existing crush collar anymore, I should be good to go and not even need to disassemble everything and set it up with a new crush washer.

Am I looking at this right ? Appreciate any other opinions who've swapped their own gears before.

Thanks,
Tony

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[JohnVallo]

Pinion Flange Swap

Does anyone know the preload torque measurement range for a pinion with the carrier/ring gear assembly installed?

I'm swapping my diff this weekend but need to change the pinion flange from a manual to Automatic. I measured the preload on the assembly straight from Ford Performance and its around 40 in/lb breakaway and 35 in/lb turning torque.

I know without the carrier/ring gear installed, it should be between 10-29 in/lbs turning torque.

I plan to swap the flange and just snug the pinion nut down until I get to 35 in/lb turning torque. Seems too easy to be honest but I'm thinking as long as I don't compress the existing crush collar anymore, I should be good to go and not even need to disassemble everything and set it up with a new crush washer.

Am I looking at this right ? Appreciate any other opinions who've swapped their own gears before.

Thanks,
Tony

You are thinking right, you just have to be careful with the old crush sleeve.
What I might do is try to get 100 Ft Lbs of torque on the Pinion nut (With the new Flange installed) and if you are not over 35 in lbs turning force on the yoke, you should be good.
Once you crush the Collapsible Spacer any more, the pinion bearings end up too tight, as you already know, requiring you to replace the crush sleeve with new one and start over. When this happens you have to dissemble the whole housing, removing the differential and the pinion shaft from the housing. The reason is the crush sleeve only comes off when the pinion shaft is out of the housing. When the pinion shaft is in the housing, the crush sleeve will not pass through the outer pinion bearing cup, I can tell you it takes +/- 300 Ft Lbs to initially start collapsing a new crush sleeve, but only takes +/- 120 Lbs to continue to crush one. (If that makes sense)
SEE:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2198225#post2198225

For a tip on how to use an old crush sleeve again SEE:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...gear-to-4-56-in-my-gt350.104766/#post-2403384

 

[Anthony 05 GT]

It's a little risky, but you could apply red loctite to the threads and tighten the nut to 80-90 ft lbs. Put silicone sealant behind the washer, then install the nut with red loctite.

 

[lxh89]

I just read the instructions that came with the flange and they're basically saying swap the pinion flange without disassembly. They include a crush collar just in case the other one gets damaged during the swap.

I'm gonna try swapping them straight up.

Thanks all for the feedback.

Tony

 

[RYAN97812]

Done it a 1000 times. Take your rolling torque and duplicate within 3 nm and you'll be all set. Don't need anything crazy either a 1/4 beam will work just fine, I do customers cars all day and have yet to have one return with an issue.

 

[lxh89]

Got the pinion flange swapped and the turning torque dead on at 35 in/lb as measured from Ford.

I basically got the pinion nut started, set my torque wrench to 50 ft/lb and started tightening it until it clicked. I then measured turning torque and moved up in 10 ft/lb increments. Between increases on the torque wrench, I would measure turning torque.

I got all the way to 180 ft/lbs on the torque wrench before the turning torque was dead on. When my turning torque got within 15 in/lbs of target, I started increasing in 5 ft/lb increments.

Tony

 

[StrongFord]

Does it matter if the half shafts are installed when measuring the turning/rotational torque? I have the differential out of the vehicle and may need to swap flanges with another diff. I do not have another seal or crush sleeve.

 

[JohnVallo]

Does it matter if the half shafts are installed when measuring the turning/rotational torque? I have the differential out of the vehicle and may need to swap flanges with another diff. I do not have another seal or crush sleeve.

The half shafts should NOT be installed when measuring the turning/rotational torque, especially when out of the car.
When the carrier is in the car, and the half shafts are installed you could introduce additional drag on the gears, (Such as rotors against pads, emergency brake drag, etc.) You don't want any of these additional forces introducing drag if you don't have to.

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