studded crank? Who has done it?

[doodguy]

Hello all,

I'm in process of getting my motor sleeved, and crank studded. I was just thinking about it; are there any drawbacks to a studded crank?

Can you please share any info? I am trying to build my motor to withstand 1000 to 1100wheel without issues.

Thanks!

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[sigintel]

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1934867&highlight=Fastenal#post1934867
Search forums for “fastenal”, maybe “ATI” or “damper”?

I have done both B7 stud and intermediate long install bolts.

Always extremely clean dry threads, snout, damper. RTV keyway.

Either way:
(Just my opinion) The crank and damper must be able to transmit very high torsional transient spikes across the keyway. Torisional lash must be 0.

When I start forging damper onto crank, I get first interference on key and then apply torque on damper opposite crank turn direction on locked crank to insure key forges into damper all to one side of damper keyway. Could be wrong but how I do it. This insures zero lash possible if crank driving SC which theoretically is highest torsional spikes from crank to damper.

The ATI dampers have a slightly excess wide keyway, but interference on keyway height leading to a tight forged key engagement into the hub. I would not reuse hubs at 1000rwhp unless I was sure I was getting the key into the previous forged interference or get a key 0.002 higher for second install or bed the crank keyway to get that 0.001-0.002 additional interference.

You could ask ATI opinion on tighter(narrower) hub keyway custom cut hub?

If wallered crank keyway from previous greased damper install, would retire that crank/motor into non FI.