Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[CrashOverride]

Anything's OK, but it boils down to what you want out of it. I kept the stock speakers, but added an amp. I removed the factory EQ, and hated how it sounded, so I put it back. It's hard to beat the capabilities the OEMs have with regards to eq-ing the cars. So, yeah, you could skip a DSP, remove the factory eq, install your speakers and try to play around with the bass/treble settings to see how you liked it. If you didn't like it, then you could put the factory eq back and again, play with the bass/treble controls and see if that works. If it doesn't, then I'd get rid of the factory eq, and add a DSP to tweak the sound to your liking and the speakers.

Not sure about #2. I'd guess rears don't reproduce the caller, but I could be wrong. But, and call me stupid here, but doesn't the frequency of phones essentially have a reverse bandpass waveform? e.g. even if the rears did send the phone call through, there would be almost no bass present...and what little bit that would be there would be cut out by your low pass filter? I suppose if you're talking to Lou Rawls, then you might get some breakthrough bass LOL. (I grew up listening to the Motown sound)

Sponsored

 

[Silver550]

Thanks @CrashOverride! I think I’m just going to buy a DSP. Would I still need to get rid of the oem dsp?

 

[CrashOverride]

Thanks @CrashOverride! I think I’m just going to buy a DSP. Would I still need to get rid of the oem dsp?

I'm not an audiophile level sound system guy, but I would get rid of the factory eq, so that you are not fighting against a non-flat signal source. I think that you will not need to apply as much correction when you do it that way. I think I saw where someone posted the EQ plots on here by using a white noise sound source, and a calibrated mic. I can't remember where I saw it...It might even be buried somewhere in this thread.

 

[Emilbadal]

I'm getting a digital frequency sound coming from my speakers, which was present in the stock setup but not amplified with the aftermarket setup. I bypassed the factory amp so I know its the ACM that's causing the issue. After playing around with the ACM settings, I determined that switching the first bit in 727-01-01 to turn off the SDARS ant gets rid of the digital signal tone but I lose functionality with most of the audio sources (satellite, bluetooth, etc).

The fact that the frequency goes away when I disable the SDARS is a pretty clear indicator of where the issue lies but does anyone have any ideas on what it could be specifically thats causing the issue?

I've tried disabling the ANC, factory sound processing etc.

Did you ever find a way to get rid of this noise other than the one you mentioned in this post? I have it too and it's driving me nuts. My amp gains are set to Minimum and still I can hear it.

 

[NickBlack]

Hey guys,
I tried searching and posting in the Audio Section, but haven't heard anyone chime in yet.
Can someone tell me how to wire these stock subwoofer wires up to my new JL Subwoofer?

Which wires do I combine for Positive and Negative Inputs to connect to the new JL Sub?
Wires are GREEN+BLACK from one side, and PURPLE +YELLOW from the other. SEE PICS BELOW.

Got a 2019 GT with 401A B&O system.
I Bought a JL 10W1v3-4 Subwoofer Driver 4 ohm 300w
Question I have is about wiring the stock connectors to the Positive and Negative input on the JL sub.

Pics below of enclosure, stock sub and JL sub comparison and connectors.
Thanks![

 

[Relak]

Did you ever find a way to get rid of this noise other than the one you mentioned in this post? I have it too and it's driving me nuts. My amp gains are set to Minimum and still I can hear it.

Nope. They replaced the ACM, I tried a DSP, and every setting you could thing of but nothing fixed it. disconnected every wire affiliated with the "ANC", and no real change. I think the real cause of the issue is the headunit itself. It's made of poor quality and there is probably an internal ground fault somewhere inside the HU. I have no idea what else it could be to be honest. I ended up selling my GT350 and switched back to a BMW M3. The quality in sound system is amazingly different in comparison.. The M3 Harmon Kardon is the base system and it needs nothing to make it perfect.. the GT350 or S550 kicker systems can't even sound good with $3k+ thrown at it.. pretty sad.

 

[Emilbadal]

I know it's really sad, I have tried pretty much everything to no avail. I'm planning on to spend one weekend just hunting down this goddamn hissing noise in next couple of weeks. I can't even raise the gain from minimum and not increase this noise. I will probably make a thread if anything positive comes out of it.

 

[trkpny]

I have come to the same conclusion as Relak when it comes to the noise (both intended and unintended) in the system--it's the head unit. I am running a JL Audio Fix and a Twk DSP straight out of the head unit and the noise is unbearable. I have never encountered anything like it. The noise is so obnoxious that I have been running with no stereo at all for almost 6 months now. I am going to opt for a new head unit and the "faceplate" adapter (mine is the 4" screen)--another $1,000, but it will be better than no stereo at all.

 

[Relak]

I have come to the same conclusion as Relak when it comes to the noise (both intended and unintended) in the system--it's the head unit. I am running a JL Audio Fix and a Twk DSP straight out of the head unit and the noise is unbearable. I have never encountered anything like it. The noise is so obnoxious that I have been running with no stereo at all for almost 6 months now. I am going to opt for a new head unit and the "faceplate" adapter (mine is the 4" screen)--another $1,000, but it will be better than no stereo at all.

Mine was present even with the audio turned off. It was just a constant buzz from the HU. I really hope that if you spend the additional $1k that it fixes the issue, otherwise it’s just throwing more money in to the black hole that is the S550’s shitty sound system.

 

[Emilbadal]

I swapped to Sync3 and I'm stuck with the factory Acm. Although right now the noise is not that intrusive that the gains are at 0, but that completely negates the reason to add aftermarket speakers and dsps and amps. I beleive if trkpny switches to after market unit he won't have this problem. Let us know how it turns out Trkpny.

 

[Racemaster]

There is nothing wrong with the head unit.
It is all your grounds or wiring somewhere along the line.

 

[Emilbadal]

I sure hope so, cause if it's ground issue or rca routing that's fixable.

 

[trkpny]

Racemaster, although I am pretty sure my grounding is okay, it's definitely worth going through the system again to save $1000.

Also, I called my local Super Ford dealership today to ask if they could flash the computer to remove the added engine sound and they told me that they "didn't know what I was talking about and they don't have a machine to do anything like that." I scheduled an appointment to fix my driver's seat (won't fold forward) anyway and I'm going to have a long talk with the service manager. If I could get them to do that and if the grounding is part of the problem--that would fix all my issues.

 

[Relak]

Also, I called my local Super Ford dealership today to ask if they could flash the computer to remove the added engine sound and they told me that they "didn't know what I was talking about and they don't have a machine to do anything like that." I scheduled an appointment to fix my driver's seat (won't fold forward) anyway and I'm going to have a long talk with the service manager. If I could get them to do that and if the grounding is part of the problem--that would fix all my issues.

It’s not a flash but some coding that needs to be done in order to turn off the ANC/ESE. BUT those are useless endeavors because I tried the coding and it didn’t work to get rid of the speaker feedback.

 

[trkpny]

It’s not a flash but some coding that needs to be done in order to turn off the ANC/ESE. BUT those are useless endeavors because I tried the coding and it didn’t work to get rid of the speaker feedback.

Did you do the coding yourself? What ODB read/write unit did you use?

Sponsored