Steeda's Adjustable Rear Camber Mount Installation

[Jmeo]

Thanks for taking the time to do a write up and post pics of your install, Jaime. Was talking to Dave about this today. Working on a tire setup for my Air Lift and was wondering if this kit AND the rear adjustable camber arms are NEEDED for proper set up. Will this kit suffice? I know there's an added benefit of the rear adjustable camber arms, but I'm on a budget.

Hi Jay,

I am not familiar with air systems but I don't think you "need" to change your arms at all. This camber adjustment kit it brilliant and I recommend at least this. You will just need to decide if you want to to the arms while your back there. A lot of people do air setups without any of these parts. I bet [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] can answer your questions.

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[MoneyPit#53]

Installed the Steeda rear camber mounts today. Gotta say. I'm NOT liking the way they function at all. Even at 120 ft/lbs. The 16mm head will still turn when you wrench on it. They are honestly not very user friendly IMHO. I will be removing them next weekend.

 

[wildcatgoal]

You know. I thought the same thing about usability until I got the right tool. My alignment shop really liked them. Sorry you're not happy with them! Oh well...

 

[tj@steeda]

Installed the Steeda rear camber mounts today. Gotta say. I'm NOT liking the way they fumction at all. Even at 120 ft/lbs. The 16mm head will still turn when you wrench on it. They are honestly not very user friendly IMHO. I will be removing them next weekend.

I am sorry you feel this way about the part, we have had members install this part without complaints, including Wildcat.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[Jlfierros]

Hello Guys,

Is this part necessary to achive -1.6 camber on the rear after installing Steeda progressive springs. Currently on my 2nd alignment shop, hoping that they can achieve the -1.6 camber after the first one didn't know how to adjust.

 

[SteedaTech]

Hello Guys,

Is this part necessary to achive -1.6 camber on the rear after installing Steeda progressive springs. Currently on my 2nd alignment shop, hoping that they can achieve the -1.6 camber after the first one didn't know how to adjust.

No this part is not necessary. Any good alignment shop should be able to achieve 1.5 neg in the rear, with the Steeda progressive springs.

The best,

Mike D

 

[MoneyPit#53]

I am sorry you feel this way about the part, we have had members install this part without complaints, including Wildcat.

Best Regards,

TJ

That's odd because I received a PM from SteedaTech a couple days after I made that post about the issues I was having. They recommended that I add a 7/16" washer in front of the 18mm nut because there "has been" tolerance inaccuracies in the sub frames.

Didn't really add up in my mind of seeing how that would effect the clamping force and it not allowing the mount to be torqued properly by adding a washer.

So I replied back asking how the washer would fix the issue I was experiencing. Reply I got back was, the issue is that, if a washer isn't added, the nut is tightening down on the shoulder of the bolt, thus preventing the mount from being torqued properly. The washer would basically prevent the nut from bottoming out on the shoulder.

SteedaTech also said that all kits are now shipping with said 7/16" washer and the install instructions now reflect this change as well......Also odd because I printed off the instructions from the Steeda website the morning I did the install.

Not to sound like a dick or anything but I got two different excuses why my issues were happening and before I posted my issue, there were several members that had torqueing issues as well. I made my post and then the instructions get updated and I'm told to use a washer to fix it.

-Nick

 

[wildcatgoal]

A washer does not affect clamping force or achieving correct torque. In fact a washer can be used to bridge tolerance gaps (in your case, potentially the width of the inner camber arm bracket on the subframe), spread load over a wider surface, and/or are often used to ensure the correct torque is able to be achieved by allowing the bolt to rotate easier.

If you are not happy with your kit, take it off. Maybe the adjustable camber arms are better for you.

I tell you, my alignment shop loves this thing and, the first time they used it, they had no issues and I have not had a torque issue or shifting even after two track days.

Again, sorry you are unhappy with it. Really am.

 

[MoneyPit#53]

A washer does not affect clamping force or achieving correct torque. In fact a washer can be used to bridge tolerance gaps (in your case, potentially the width of the inner camber arm bracket on the subframe), spread load over a wider surface, and/or are often used to ensure the correct torque is able to be achieved by allowing the bolt to rotate easier.

If you are not happy with your kit, take it off. Maybe the adjustable camber arms are better for you.

I tell you, my alignment shop loves this thing and, the first time they used it, they had no issues and I have not had a torque issue or shifting even after two track days.

Again, sorry you are unhappy with it. Really am.

I understand where you're coming from. What I'm more irritated about is that fact that the manufacture originally stated that the issue I had/have has never been heard of and then a few days later contacts me and tells me that they have seen variances in the "sub frame" and tells me to use a washer which doesn't change dimension of the sub-frame, then tells me that the washer is used to prevent the nut from bottoming out on the shoulder of the bolt. On top of that, they are now including a washer in all of their kits from now on to prevent this.

In short, I brought an issue up, I got basically got told sorry that I'm not happy with the product and that it is unheard of. Then they contact me a couple days later with a magical fix. Feels kind of like I brought up an issue and then they tried to fix it behind the curtains.

Just rubs me the wrong way I guess....

I'm going to install the washers this weekend and report back with if it actually aids in allowing the nuts to torqued to spec without the 16mm nut still being able to be turned.

 

[wildcatgoal]

I was on the phone with Steeda today discussing what exactly Camp Steeda is and how I should setup my car, and not really talking about you specifically, asked about the tolerance issues they're seeing with the IRS assembly in relation to this part because I, too, was a little weirded out by this thing when installing it (for a different reason, I found getting the right tools made using it easy, which I didn't have before). Anyway, Steeda (and BMR and everyone else, no doubt) has seen -- in general -- variances in the subframe.

It's great you bring this up with them because then they can get you a solution. What seems to be the case is, if the subframe's camber arm bracket is not as wide as their test cars, your nut bottoms out on the end of the threads (shank) of the through bolt so you can't get proper torque. A washer will back the nut up enough to resolve that issue entirely. The bolt was chosen to ensure the load rests on the shank and, if you look at it, the tolerance there is pretty tight.

In my case, I cannot turn the 16mm nut for the friggin' life of me unless I back out the 18mm nut. So if you are able to back out that little bit you need with the washer, then you're good. Maybe Steeda will change the bolt they use, which may require some kind of custom bolt with a few more threads than standard, I don't know. But a washer will not cause any torque issues.

 

[tj@steeda]

Hello Money Pit,

My apologies for the inconsistencies - I am more customer service/marketing on the forums & on Facebook - Steeda Tech deals with more install questions.

I did not state the issue had never been heard of ... so I apologize again if you took that out of context.

I was simply offering empathy that you were having issues with the adjustment of the part & as stated - others have installed it & adjusted it without issue.

Additionally, after you posted, I sent the post to our tech department for follow-up support & that is where Steeda Tech contacted you.

For immediate follow-up, you can always reach us at 1800 950 0774.

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[MoneyPit#53]

Hello Money Pit,

My apologies for the inconsistencies - I am more customer service/marketing on the forums & on Facebook - Steeda Tech deals with more install questions.

I did not state the issue had never been heard of ... so I apologize again if you took that out of context.

I was simply offering empathy that you were having issues with the adjustment of the part & as stated - others have installed it & adjusted it without issue.

Additionally, after you posted, I sent the post to our tech department for follow-up support & that is where Steeda Tech contacted you.

For immediate follow-up, you can always reach us at 1800 950 0774.

Best Regards,

TJ

[MENTION=7748]tj@steeda[/MENTION],

Hey TJ. First and foremost, no need on your end to apologize for something that "I" took out of context. You are correct, you never said that "no one" has ever had the same issue that I was experiencing. I guess I more or less assumed that by you not saying that you have seen it, then you've never seen it. Make sense? My bad for making that assumption.

Like I mentioned before, I will be installing the 7/16" washers as SteedaTech advised, and will report back.

-Nick

 

[2qwk4ya]

Here is my review and fix.

I installed these with the subframe out of the car. And when I laid the brackets over the factory subframe they fit nice and snug. But when I installed the upper camber arm there was a .060-.080 gap that needs to be crushed between the bracket and the camber arm bushing. When I tried to tighten it just bent the open end of the brackets and barely squeezed any tension on the side the camber bushing. The factory subframe metal there is really thin and will squish and conform to the bushing on the factory setup. But the additional thickness and strength of the Steeda bracket is unable to conform.

So my fix was to install a thick 1/2" id washer between the camber arm bushing and the factory subframe bracket.
That allowed a nice flat surface for everything to pinch down on with 360* support. It now torques down really nice. I see no further issues at all.

I really like these brackets. :cheers:

I do not think they could have made them any different that would cure this issue. The fix is the washer/spacer.

Another nice S550 product for the market.

Brian







.

 

[gatornek]

Sorry to reawaken this thread, but I am new to the game in trying to install this kit, and it is BY FAR, the best details I've seen on getting it done (although the photobucket pics in the OP are long gone).

So here is what I think are the most critical aspects to it, and hopefully you can hold my hand through them, so I ensure I have the right tools.

I am undecided on whether to do it on jack stands or a lift. I have access to a lift, but at a DIY garage, where I gotta pay like $25/hour.

I completely understand that a lift opens up all sorts of angles that jackstands would not, so maybe I make all this moot by simply using a lift?

More than anything, I'd like to AVOID dropping the subframe. I've dropped it a few times now, and no longer would like to risk having the bolts come all the way out, and then the anxiousness of rethreading.

Anyway, here are my questions:

1) First off, is everybody in fair consensus that the cam bolts should orientate to the front, while the nuts to the rear? I think I saw one person that said they had success going the other way, when having to make adjustments later.

2) To tighten the top bolt after the cam arm is back in place, what exact tools are needed to get this done? It appears there is no space to grasp the 18mm nut. I believe the process floated in the OP is to use a long flex-head 18mm ratchet wrench to hold the nut from 'inside', by the diff, and into the backside of the bracket? I imagine I can also get an open ended ratchet on the top bolt and then crank away?

3) Finally, to torque the cam bolt to spec, ALL I need is a swivel socket, as in the "360" ball joint swivel, rather than the typical 'swivel' attachment. With this, I can hold the 16mm nut with my open ended ratchet and then torque the nut to spec with my torque wrench?

Thank you for any help, and apologies for reawakening such an old thread.

 

[SteedaTech]

Sorry to reawaken this thread, but I am new to the game in trying to install this kit, and it is BY FAR, the best details I've seen on getting it done (although the photobucket pics in the OP are long gone).

So here is what I think are the most critical aspects to it, and hopefully you can hold my hand through them, so I ensure I have the right tools.

I am undecided on whether to do it on jack stands or a lift. I have access to a lift, but at a DIY garage, where I gotta pay like $25/hour.

I completely understand that a lift opens up all sorts of angles that jackstands would not, so maybe I make all this moot by simply using a lift?

More than anything, I'd like to AVOID dropping the subframe. I've dropped it a few times now, and no longer would like to risk having the bolts come all the way out, and then the anxiousness of rethreading.

Anyway, here are my questions:

1) First off, is everybody in fair consensus that the cam bolts should orientate to the front, while the nuts to the rear? I think I saw one person that said they had success going the other way, when having to make adjustments later.

2) To tighten the top bolt after the cam arm is back in place, what exact tools are needed to get this done? It appears there is no space to grasp the 18mm nut. I believe the process floated in the OP is to use a long flex-head 18mm ratchet wrench to hold the nut from 'inside', by the diff, and into the backside of the bracket? I imagine I can also get an open ended ratchet on the top bolt and then crank away?

3) Finally, to torque the cam bolt to spec, ALL I need is a swivel socket, as in the "360" ball joint swivel, rather than the typical 'swivel' attachment. With this, I can hold the 16mm nut with my open ended ratchet and then torque the nut to spec with my torque wrench?

Thank you for any help, and apologies for reawakening such an old thread.

- Yes, a lift will make it easier, but it can be done on jackstands.
- No, the subframe does not need to come out of the car. We have installed numerous kits without the need for this.
- Tools will be basic hand tools. Ratchet, torque wrench, sockets, and box end wrenches.
- We recommend the cam bolt feed from rear to front but it’s dealer’s choice for what you find easiest.
- The top bolt only requires a ratchet and socket with a box end wrench.
- We have torqued the arm a couple of different ways. It depends on how you ultimately install the cam bolt.
Steeda Tech

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