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Steeda Sport Spring STANCE Pics

minicobra

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The pig tail on the coil will fit snugly in the isolator on the strut, if you have it upside down the pigtail will be just a bit too big to fit in the isolator. The spring will need to be compressed some to install the strut mount.
Thanks for the response, the only way I could make it work is with the closer spaced coil facing up on top. Otherwise the opening on the other side was too small for the top isolator to fit. The "Steeda" logo is facing upright, which makes sense too me. Hope this is right :shrug:
Seams pretty easy for the manufacturers to print "top" on the spring, I mean they are already putting their logo on there, would take the guess work out for those that don't install these on a regular basis.

The other issue I had was removing the large 21mm top strut nut, mine would not come off with just the socket. Because of the loctite it just kept spinning the shaft. :tsk: The end of the shaft as a hex on it to be able to put a wrench, but I didn't have any type of 21mm box wrench that was deep enough to fit in side the small opening on top. Most struts I've replace in the past had a slot or allen key on the end of the shaft, and they top not is usually not so hard to get at.
I went too 2 stores trying to fine a very thin offset 21mm box wrench to fit in that opening with no luck.

I eventually just put some vice grips at the very top of the shaft tube, was careful not to damage the tube, although at the very top, this will never enter the shock body. The nut finally came off.

Also, when using the spring compressors, the very large bottom flange hit the threads, so I had to invert them and couldln't use the impact to compress them. Just used a regular wrench, which took for ever. Finally got it.

I've done this a few time before on S197's and don't recall it being this difficult, I'm no expert, but I really struggled with this install :(
7 hours later, (counting trips to stores) and I had the rears and one front in.
Had to stop at midnight, because I needed to get a few hours sleep to be at work at 4am. So as soon as I get off here, I'm going to install the other front, hoping it goes smoothly.

Anyone have any suggestions on the type of wrench needed to remove the 21mm top nut when the shaft is spinning, would be appreciated.
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S550BackInBlack

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^^^yes you need to use an impact gun. I have both electric and pneumatic. That's the required tool to remove and install the nut correctly and quickly
 

minicobra

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^^^yes you need to use an impact gun. I have both electric and pneumatic. That's the required tool to remove and install the nut correctly and quickly
Yes, I have one. The shaft was just spinning, spinning, and spinning :-(
tried for about 10minutes. I think there was an unusual amount of loctite, threadlock on there.

I haven't done the left side yet, will do when I get home today, so hoping the impact works on this one.
 
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S550BackInBlack

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If I remember right it's a nylon lock nut without lock tight. It's interesting that you are having this issue. With my car I didn't even need to use my pneumatic impact gun because my battery powered ryobi 18v impact worked just fine. Sorry you are having this issue. Take the strut to a tire shop and pay them to compress and re install the spring onto your strut if you can't get it with your available tools. I can't imagine they would charge you much at all.
 

minicobra

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If I remember right it's a nylon lock nut without lock tight. It's interesting that you are having this issue. With my car I didn't even need to use my pneumatic impact gun because my battery powered ryobi 18v impact worked just fine. Sorry you are having this issue. Take the strut to a tire shop and pay them to compress and re install the spring onto your strut if you can't get it with your available tools. I can't imagine they would charge you much at all.
Yes, the nylon lock nut is correct. :-) I've never had this problem in the past, and if I had, I kind of remember being able to put a wrench on the nut and a srewdriver or allen head in a slot to hold the shaft from spinning. This strut doesn't have that, just a hex head on the shaft, but none of the offset box wrenches or pass through 21mm sockets fit into that small opening. Oh well, hoping I have better luck with the left side.
 

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I'll be a new first time Mustang owner in a couple of months, so I am a novice but learning a lot through this site. Can someone explain why spacers are needed? Is this related to the car being lowered with new springs (such as those from Steeda)? Thanks!
 

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No, just looks similar. I'm a multi line franchise dealer. Steeda sport springs. I did find out last night this setup will rub the fender wells if you hit a big dip in the road at above normal speeds.
 

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Those look like Michelin PSS tires as well.

Those sit stiff on the sidewall, if you ran Nitto or Toyo tires they would sit slimmer which allows for the clearance needed.
 
 




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