They pretty much all come from the same few CN factories when priced under $1K per wheel.
If specific wheel ( not just a facility making TUV/ JWL) has a verifiable TUV or JWL VIA cert you know it's fine. They test the wheel and size.
Anything else is a gamble regardless of Brand. Anyone making grandiose claims not backed with with either cert means they don't have the resources to pay for the cert or wheel won't pass.
For street use this is most relevant to wheel performance of brutal potholes and tire blow outs.
Since they state they are made in a TUV certified facility it only means they follow the prescribed QC documentation. Doesn't mean the wheel has been tested and is certified. BIG difference.
No, i ended up going with VTForged RS-S. Very well priced forged monoblock wheel. As mentioned above they don't have TUV or JWL certification, but the build quality when i received them was top notch!
A fraction heavier than my CF10's in the exact same size, and from what i can see, it's because they have a slightly thicker barrel and lip, which should help with potholes.
The reason i replaced my CF10's was because they got bent in a pothole and the machine shop told me that the barrel thickness is very thin and they were worried about damaging them.
These VTForged look like they should hold up better. https://www.vtforged.com/store/p77/RS-S-FORGED-MONOBLOCK-WHEELS.html#/
I know. I'm not referring to the finish. Sometimes you can tell when something has been made well. The machined logo on the front, the engraved specs of the wheel on the back, when i weighed them the two front and 2 rears were almost within grams of each other. I think it just shows very high machining quality.
As long as the forging they used isn't garbage, they should be a very decent wheel.
Even the guys that balanced them said they barely needed any weights added to balance them. Said that was very rare.
Time will tell if they are any good, but first impressions are definitely very good.
Sounds like you got lucky. Very tight weight tolerances and balance!
There is absolutely no way to tell if it was made well except to take a X-ray of the wheel and do other NDT tests. These are the tests required, and ongoing documentation of random tests as well as all the regular QC checks, to get a TUV etc.
Imagine a wheel disintegrated at 150 MPH it's game over, even at 100.