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Staggered setup handling OEM 20s

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Yea kind of torn here because it drives great cruising around on normal roads.
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Seceda91

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Norm, looking at the OP's camber, front = -1.5/-1.6 and rear = -1.9/=2.2.. That will def eat the inside of the tire unless the OP is tracking right? I know alignment shops will adjust the toe for the negative camber but that can only do so much.

My friends S550 on Eibach sportlines, his rear camber was around -1.2 and the same for the fronts. Unless the OP has about a 2inch drop, I don't see why they can't get close to -1 camber without camber bolts.

I know one thing, the camber may change. The shop adjusted his to -1.4 and after about 8-10 months, it is now at -1.2
 
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Not really trying to turn this into a suspension thread but may end up ditching these Eibach Sportline springs if nothing works, I did however just happened to read this post by BMR in the suspension section:

"Some very common complaints after lowering vehicles are:

-Car did not drop much in the rear

-Car is sitting lop sided

-Car is making noise now

-Car feels very unstable and floaty <---------- My issue

Many times, it is simply due to not loosening all of the suspension pivot point bolts, and re-torquing them to their specific TA values whent he car is sitting on all (4) wheels/tires - loaded.

The best way to perform this is get the car on a drive on lift, or blocks or drive on ramps. The car needs to be level and sitting on all 4.

Loosen all of the suspension pivot point bolts enough to where there is no load on the nuts.

After ALL of them are loose, go ahead and RE-torque them all to OEM specified values."

Anyone input on this? I happen to find this post inside that thread.
Ever since I lowered my car on cjpp springs and put on wider tires / rims, my handling has sucked, the car feels dangerously unstable above 90 mph. My wife's 4runner literally feels more planted at 95 mph. I attributed this to the mickey Thompson street comp tires, but I changed to nitto nt 555 g2 today and it's worse. When I saw the wheel it feels like the car has 1985 tires on it with a huge thin sidewall. Also, the left front has a popping sound when turning sharp to the right. I'm not doing any performance mods engine wise until I figure this out. I'm gonna try to reset all the pivot point bolts and see what happens.
When I had the tires put on today the shop told me the front was in spec and the rear of the new mustangs had not camber adjustment.
 
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Norm Peterson

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Norm, looking at the OP's camber, front = -1.5/-1.6 and rear = -1.9/=2.2.. That will def eat the inside of the tire unless the OP is tracking right? I know alignment shops will adjust the toe for the negative camber but that can only do so much.
From experience, -1.5° front camber is not far enough negative to worry about uneven tire wear as long as (1) toe is at least decent, and (2) corners are driven somewhat enthusiastically and there's enough of that being done to balance out the hard braking (which tends to beat up the inside portions of the front tire treads). What it probably would be too much for would be nearly all highway driving and mild average driving otherwise.

Agreed that -2° out back is a bit much when Ford's preferred setting is only -1.2°. It's why I was looking at something in the -1.5, maybe -1.6 range to go with -1.2/-1.3 up front. For milder driving, perhaps -1° front with -1.2° rear would be better while still being just a little less understeerish than was intended as OE???


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Spykexx

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Just chiming in, 275 F, 305 R and I have zero "float" issues. Feels extremely planted; corners or straights.
 

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Ya, Kelly [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] said that if you lower at all, anywhere where there is rubber in the suspension to loosen and then re-tighten with the car level and on all 4 wheels. I'd try that first to see if it takes care of your issues.
 
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Does it really matter if the car is level when doing that?
 

5.0_SD

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Couldn't have said it better [MENTION=26348]Spykexx[/MENTION]
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