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SPL adjustable LCA and tension rod install

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matthewr87

matthewr87

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So I received a new stud just so I can hook up the LCA and move the car away from the wall and get it up on my quickjack to switch back to stock. Does anyone want to take bets on whether the driver's side stud snaps when I lift the passenger side to swap out the broken stud? If that happens I guess I'll just have a permanent GT350 ornament stuck in my garage... :giggle:
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So I received a new stud just so I can hook up the LCA and move the car away from the wall and get it up on my quickjack to switch back to stock. Does anyone want to take bets on whether the driver's side stud snaps when I lift the passenger side to swap out the broken stud? If that happens I guess I'll just have a permanent GT350 ornament stuck in my garage... :giggle:
Relax! If it sits there like that for 20 years it'll be worth millions...
 
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matthewr87

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Relax! If it sits there like that for 20 years it'll be worth millions...
I guess I can deconstruct my house and build a museum up around my car instead....
 
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matthewr87

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Also how hard is it to replace the knuckles on this car? I regret everything about this damn SPL install including the need to drill a larger hole on the top of the taper to accommodate those brittle studs. So to go back to stock I would like to replace with new knuckles.

Also, how difficult is it to remove the caliper studs from my old knuckles and transfer to the new knuckles?
 

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I like to disassemble things.
Either it's a faulty material (sure looks good based on the photos), or the torque spec is wrong. Either the wrench is bad or the 180 is meant for something else.
100% this. SPL should have immediately stopped selling the part until a metallurgist has professionally examined the failed parts along with some new, uninstalled parts. Someone is going to get killed, including the company as the result of numerous lawsuits. I don't say this lightly.

For now, I'd return to stock or come up with something from another manufacturer(s).
 

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They said that there were other cases. I wonder if all those cases were bought directly from them or a different vendor. Point I’m trying to make is if it affected by the batch or not.

SPL has a great reputation and several cars at Global Time Attack last month were SPL equipped. Vorshlag stands by them (and that’s rare). I agree that this could lead to the worst thing one can imagine but further answers are needed
 
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matthewr87

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I sent my stock arms to Cortex to have their bearings installed. When I get them back I'll attempt to remove the SPL arms and go back to stock. I am really worried about the drivers side studs snapping while I'm doing that. This has turned into a giant and needless fucking headache. I also bought two new knuckles to have in reserve just in case. To install the SPL studs I had to drill out the top of the taper in the knuckle; SPL says this doesn't affect anything when going back to stock but I'm not 100% convinced.
 

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Also how hard is it to replace the knuckles on this car? I regret everything about this damn SPL install including the need to drill a larger hole on the top of the taper to accommodate those brittle studs. So to go back to stock I would like to replace with new knuckles.

Also, how difficult is it to remove the caliper studs from my old knuckles and transfer to the new knuckles?
Caliper studs are set with very little torque. Just double nut and you should be able to hand wrench them out.

Fear of this is why I went with Cortex bearings for my front tension arms. My car is too heavy and carries so much energy that I want all the strength possible when clipping curbs and the occasional off-track.
 
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matthewr87

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Anyone ever lift their car up using the Quickjack 5000slx positioned in a transverse manner (sideways). I think the Quickjack is just long enough to reach the pinch weld lift points. Apparently Quickjack says this is okay as long as the weight distribution is 50:50 or close to it. Apparently the GT350 is 54:46. Anyone ever do this? This might potentially solve my issue because I would lift away from the wall and then might have enough space to switch the driver's side back to stock at the same time.
 
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matthewr87

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Okay. SPL arms are off and my old arms are back on except I had the cortex spherical bearings installed to replace the bushing on the pittman arm. Sadly the clunking that I experienced going over bumps is still present; so clearly the bushing was not the culprit. I suppose it could be either the balljoint on the pittman arm, or the bearing and ball joint on the other LCA.

I also want to make sure my strut top nut is tight. What is the torque on that one? 76 ft lbs?
 

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matthewr87

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lmao........my driver's side strut top nut was finger tight.............

I am 36 years old and this is the stupidest fucking thing I've EVER done.

So much time and money and effort and sweat and blood and it could have been solved months ago.

My goodness.

My car is quiet. And at least I have the cortex bearings now.
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