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Spirited Driving, Limp Mode Codes P0600, P27B5

bluestar

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So I was driving my 2018 auto GT today. Took off pretty aggressively from a stop and went into limp mode. The car sat for a few hours and when I started it up had a CEL ran fine though. Ran the codes when I got home and came up with P0600 and P27B5. Car has mods in sig and tune. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
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ugstang17

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datalog and send to tuner. Did you research the codes? Try that.
 
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bluestar

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datalog and send to tuner. Did you research the codes? Try that.
P0600 is a serial connection link. It says the PCM lost communication with a control module.

Haven't found the other one yet....
 

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So I was driving my 2018 auto GT today. Took off pretty aggressively from a stop and went into limp mode. The car sat for a few hours and when I started it up had a CEL ran fine though. Ran the codes when I got home and came up with P0600 and P27B5. Car has mods in sig and tune. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
you may have read that wrong. obd codes are 4 characters. p027b is a code for fuel pump command issues.
 
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bluestar

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you may have read that wrong. obd codes are 4 characters. p027b is a code for fuel pump command issues.
Hmmm, thought I had that right.
 

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ugstang17

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A search on the site here or through a search engine as I just ran would have revealed this for you. Pay attention to reply #8. Based on this you DID read the code correctly. Whether this takes you somewhere or not at least it confirms your codes were read correctly as the member replying in #8 has the very same two codes you posted.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-gt-premium-surging.121400/
 
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bluestar

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A search on the site here or through a search engine as I just ran would have revealed this for you. Pay attention to reply #8. Based on this you DID read the code correctly. Whether this takes you somewhere or not at least it confirms your codes were read correctly as the member replying in #8 has the very same two codes you posted.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-gt-premium-surging.121400/
Thank you for the reply. I definitely have to check the voltage...
 

ugstang17

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Thank you for the reply. I definitely have to check the voltage...
Do that with car running. Battery voltage static won't tell the story. Also check for AC voltage; aka AC ripple. High presence of AC is indication that alternator voltage rectifier is faulty. Flaky voltage can cause problems. In fact there is a voltage table in the tune that corrects for pulse duration of he fuel injectors as voltage fluctuates. 13.8 -14.0 is considered operating voltage on most. As voltage drops below that the injector pulse duration becomes longer slightly or shorter slightly as voltage may creep above 14.0vdc to assure the most accurate fuel flow is provided as the voltage system regulates. get below a certain voltage which often indicates a presence of AC voltage and things can start going haywire. Crank triggers, cam sensors, fuel injectors, MAF sensors etc all start providing incorrect data which leads to odd issues if the alternator goes whacky. More commonly seen in the older 05-09 S197's due primarily to their age but also happens on newer models as well. AC is not a good thing on a DC bus. Sagging voltage is also not a good thing.

Still provide the 411 to your tuner as well though as they may have seen this and know of a correction in the tune OR where for you to target more closely in your troubleshooting if the voltage especially all looks fine.
 

Zinc03svt

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Found your thread. There is another thread under “Battery Management” that shows you where the plugs are located with pictures. If your battery tests good I would unplug both and see how it does.
 
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bluestar

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Do that with car running. Battery voltage static won't tell the story. Also check for AC voltage; aka AC ripple. High presence of AC is indication that alternator voltage rectifier is faulty. Flaky voltage can cause problems. In fact there is a voltage table in the tune that corrects for pulse duration of he fuel injectors as voltage fluctuates. 13.8 -14.0 is considered operating voltage on most. As voltage drops below that the injector pulse duration becomes longer slightly or shorter slightly as voltage may creep above 14.0vdc to assure the most accurate fuel flow is provided as the voltage system regulates. get below a certain voltage which often indicates a presence of AC voltage and things can start going haywire. Crank triggers, cam sensors, fuel injectors, MAF sensors etc all start providing incorrect data which leads to odd issues if the alternator goes whacky. More commonly seen in the older 05-09 S197's due primarily to their age but also happens on newer models as well. AC is not a good thing on a DC bus. Sagging voltage is also not a good thing.

Still provide the 411 to your tuner as well though as they may have seen this and know of a correction in the tune OR where for you to target more closely in your troubleshooting if the voltage especially all looks fine.
I'll watch the battery voltage with the car running. I guess I underestimated how sensitive these cars can be. I've had my Mustang for about a year now and this is the first real issue I've encountered. Realistically, I'm sure it's related to not leaving it stock.

I store my Mustang in the winter and leave it on a trickle charger. I wonder if maybe that had an effect on the battery's life. Was thinking there shouldn't be too much of an issue as the car's only a year or so old though.

I sent my tuner a message related to the codes, waiting for him to get back to me. Wondering if the tune needs a slight revision....

I appreciate your informative post. Lots of good information! :)
 

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bluestar

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Found your thread. There is another thread under “Battery Management” that shows you where the plugs are located with pictures. If your battery tests good I would unplug both and see how it does.
Thanks! I'll search for it.
 

ugstang17

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No problem. Spent a lot of time (and still refer to it a lot) reading Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish. Great book. Teaches you how to calculate load, etc. I have to go back to it for the formulas if I need to do it but at least I have the reference and can better relate to tuners when working through my tuning process. You can order he book on Amazon.
 
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bluestar

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No problem. Spent a lot of time (and still refer to it a lot) reading Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish. Great book. Teaches you how to calculate load, etc. I have to go back to it for the formulas if I need to do it but at least I have the reference and can better relate to tuners when working through my tuning process. You can order he book on Amazon.
Don't know if this is worth mentioning....I just had the RTR illuminated grille installed. Do you think that could have changed the battery voltage. Thanks!
 
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Per the conversation with my tuner the stability control does not like the car sliding around and thereby cut power. That's pretty much the short explanation given. Seems plausible to me considering I pretty much went close to WOT from a stop. I had the traction control turned off but NOT the stability control.

Took the car out to run some errands and ran flawlessly. Went full throttle from a roll on a road with no traffic and pulled hard as ever. Also kept an eye on the volt gauge and hovered around 13 1/2-14. Not too much fluctuation there. So I guess I'll just have to see if this happens again.

A big thanks to all who responded to my thread! Definitely learned a bit more about how voltage effects the overall functionality of the vehicle!
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