Speaker sizes?

[Bryman]

First, thanks stoli for all the great pics and info. I do have a question though. Did you not change the front center speaker because it would be a PITA or because it is good enough?

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[TheColorRed]

First, thanks stoli for all the great pics and info. I do have a question though. Did you not change the front center speaker because it would be a PITA or because it is good enough?

Going to guess that the front center is disconnected

 

[stoli]

It's there and still wired to the oem amp.

 

[pctek]

Where is the radio main unit? I doubt it's connected to the LCD screen in the center stack?

 

[Keyser_Soze]

Yes we needed to use brackets and yes they are likely going to be needed for any aftermarket speaker. ;)

Aftermarket in these cars is starting to look really hairy. If I understand correctly, the signal chain looks something like...

Factory HU -> DLOC/CleanSweep (right before the amplifier in a premium car) -> Aftermarket Amp -> new wiring -> aftermarket speaker / subwoofer.

That's bucknasty, especially if your amps are going to mount in the trunk - you'd have factory wires to the front speakers / DLOC, then back to the amp, and forward to your new door speakers.

If you don't mind me asking, how much was just the labor portion? That many panels being popped off and wires being run may be worth high three figures.

 

[RevvdMedia]

Factory HU -> DLOC/CleanSweep (right before the amplifier in a premium car) -> Aftermarket Amp -> new wiring -> aftermarket speaker / subwoofer.

If it's like my Sportage which has a "premium" style multi speaker stereo, the OEM looks like this:

Factory HU > Factory Amp > Speakers / sub

Because the factory HU these days often puts out a digital signal (SPDIF) to the factory amp through a single wire, you need to tap into the wires coming out AFTER the factory amp. Sometimes the wires are putting out "staged" sound which won't allow full range to every speaker as you'd like if installing coax/component in all speakers. How my Sportage was, and I expect the Mustang to be is as follows:

Factory HU > Factory Amp > Speaker wires cut and run to DLOC > DLOC RCA output to aftermarket amp > Insert factory speaker wires from speakers (where you cut) to the aftermarket amp output.

Simplified:

Factory HU > Factory Amp > Speaker OUT wire > DLOC > Aftermarket AMP > Factory speaker wire to speakers + new wire to sub.

I have had no issues running 50W RMS to my new speakers through the factory wiring, I would suspect the Mustang could handle 50 to 75W RMS as well through the factory wiring. If you have the Shaker Pro and are adding more watts to the subwoofer (aftermarket), I'd suggest running new wires to the sub though since it puts out a lot of power.

 

[stoli]

Aftermarket in these cars is starting to look really hairy. If I understand correctly, the signal chain looks something like...

Factory HU -> DLOC/CleanSweep (right before the amplifier in a premium car) -> Aftermarket Amp -> new wiring -> aftermarket speaker / subwoofer.

That's bucknasty, especially if your amps are going to mount in the trunk - you'd have factory wires to the front speakers / DLOC, then back to the amp, and forward to your new door speakers.

If you don't mind me asking, how much was just the labor portion? That many panels being popped off and wires being run may be worth high three figures.

It wasn't pretty. ;) We used speedwire from the dloc to the amp and back and then soldered into factory wiring to reuse for all new speakers. Labor and supporting dloc and wiring made up a good deal of the cost. While I had a fixed price on the labor, they spent 16+ man hours on it.

 

[Keyser_Soze]

If it's like my Sportage which has a "premium" style multi speaker stereo, the OEM looks like this:

Factory HU > Factory Amp > Speakers / sub

Because the factory HU these days often puts out a digital signal (SPDIF) to the factory amp through a single wire, you need to tap into the wires coming out AFTER the factory amp. Sometimes the wires are putting out "staged" sound which won't allow full range to every speaker as you'd like if installing coax/component in all speakers. How my Sportage was, and I expect the Mustang to be is as follows:

Factory HU > Factory Amp > Speaker wires cut and run to DLOC > DLOC RCA output to aftermarket amp > Insert factory speaker wires from speakers (where you cut) to the aftermarket amp output.

Simplified:

Factory HU > Factory Amp > Speaker OUT wire > DLOC > Aftermarket AMP > Factory speaker wire to speakers + new wire to sub.

I have had no issues running 50W RMS to my new speakers through the factory wiring, I would suspect the Mustang could handle 50 to 75W RMS as well through the factory wiring. If you have the Shaker Pro and are adding more watts to the subwoofer (aftermarket), I'd suggest running new wires to the sub though since it puts out a lot of power.

Wow, connecting output of amp to DLOC using factory wiring would mean a DLOC for each of the 4 corners of the car, no? And you'd still have to run new speaker wire from the trunk-amp to where you cut the wire. Sounds like lots of tapping/soldering.

 

[terion]

We used a DLOC - digital line out converter that takes the signals coming from the head unit and converts them for the the amp.

Can you provide a link to the device that yo used to get signal from sync head unit? Is it leveled analog or digital?

 

[OF5.0]

Can you provide a link to the device that yo used to get signal from sync head unit? Is it leveled analog or digital?

Which factory radio do you have, the 4” or 8” screen?

 

[terion]

Which factory radio do you have, the 4” or 8” screen?

8". Sync 3, latest generation, from 2020 car

 

[OF5.0]

8". Sync 3, latest generation, from 2020 car

9 or 12-speaker system?

 

[terion]

9 or 12-speaker system?

12, B&O. It doesn't matter, head units and ACMs are the same, only amp differs

 

[OF5.0]

12, B&O. It doesn't matter, head units and ACMs are the same, only amp differs

Correct, but the harnesses that connect the radio to the interface device and the harness to your existing speaker wires are different.

Look at the Maestro iDatalink aFO2 harness and either their AR or DSR1 interface devices. The stock signal is analog.

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