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Speaker sizes?

stoli

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This I would like to know as well. In fact, do you know how the new amp was wired in? When I did my car, I need a channel summer to send a useable signal to my aftermarket amp. Basically had to splice in-between the speaker wire that leads from the factory amp to the speakers. Wired from factory amp to signal summer, summer to aftermarket amp, aftermarket amp to wiring leading to speakers. It was a bit messy.
We used a DLOC - digital line out converter that takes the signals coming from the head unit and converts them for the the amp.

Noob question (I've never modified a car's sound system before) but that means you're only able to change 2 pair of speakers, the 6.5" speaker in the door and the 6.5' speakers in the rear deck - correct?
Technically yes two pair as that's all the car has. (Pair 1) Tweeters in the A-pillar, mids and woofers in the doors and (Pair 2) coaxials in the rear deck. We didn't mess with the center dash speaker.
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SilverSpoon09

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We used custom/aftermarket brackets for all of the speakers. We also enlarged the opening for the mid in the door. :(

As much as I would like to think that this answered the question, I would like to ask for calification if indeed you have to use brackets or not? I am uncertain if the decision was based on necessity or a choice to use them. I just don't like making assumptions:) Also if you have chosen a different branded 6.5 would they have not needed brackets? I would think the aftermarket industry is fairly standardized but I haven't touched the system of a car in years. Thanks again.
 

stoli

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Yes we needed to use brackets and yes they are likely going to be needed for any aftermarket speaker. ;)
 

SilverSpoon09

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Thanks for clarification:) This does though kinda make me a little sad. Is there anther way to get a little more volume out of the system without replacing all the speakers? Would it be cheaper and or is it possible to just add a better amp for the existing speakers in the car? Should I possibly start a new thread or has this been discussed before?
 

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Stoli - congrats on being one of the FIRST to do an aftermarket speaker and sub swap. Your post got me excited because you're doing EXACTLY what I want to do to my Mustang when I get it. Thanks for all of the info you've shared so far.

If you could please walk us through the install that would be so helpful to a lot of guys, myself included, who know they can do better than those factory speakers.

Correct me if any of this is wrong. I'm trying to get it crystal clear. You did tell us that the Rear Deck uses 6.5" Coaxial Speakers. You replaced yours with 6.75" Coaxial Speakers from Focal. I'm not proud to admit I'm a little confused on the sizes of the other speakers. How big are the Tweeters in the A-pillar? How big is the midrange from the door? How big is the woofer from the door?

Finally the biggie - powering your new 10" subwoofer. You mentioned that your installer used a DLOC, a digital line out converter. Curious as to which brand and model you went with and how/where your installer has that DLOC connected. Also tell us about that Kenwood amp. Are you using your new amp to push the car speakers AND the subwoofer - or are you letting the factory head unit handle the speakers while your amp pushes that 10" JL Audio Sub?

Cannot stress enough just how helpful this information is, Stoli! Thanks again for sharing.

-SeventhWard
 

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stoli

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If you could please walk us through the install that would be so helpful to a lot of guys, myself included, who know they can do better than those factory speakers.
I'll do what I can, but since I didn't do the install myself (I loath auto wiring) I can only offer so much information...

The door panels pop off pretty easy; two bolts and then they will come free by pulling up and out. Just be careful - there at least 5 separate wiring harnesses. Regretfully I wasn't up close when they pulled the A-Pillars, but they did it a couple time in no time at all, so it's got to be pretty easy, right? ;)

Correct me if any of this is wrong. I'm trying to get it crystal clear. You did tell us that the Rear Deck uses 6.5" Coaxial Speakers. You replaced yours with 6.75" Coaxial Speakers from Focal. I'm not proud to admit I'm a little confused on the sizes of the other speakers. How big are the Tweeters in the A-pillar? How big is the midrange from the door? How big is the woofer from the door?
There are measurements in the pics above. I'll get some more precise measurements from the oem speakers and post them up.

Finally the biggie - powering your new 10" subwoofer. You mentioned that your installer used a DLOC, a digital line out converter. Curious as to which brand and model you went with and how/where your installer has that DLOC connected. Also tell us about that Kenwood amp. Are you using your new amp to push the car speakers AND the subwoofer - or are you letting the factory head unit handle the speakers while your amp pushes that 10" JL Audio Sub?
The DLOC is a PAC PDLC81 that is mounted up under the dash/knee area on the drivers side near the door (does not interfere at all with the knee airbag). There's a lot of room there and on the right side of the steering wheel.

The Kenwood Amp is a 5 channel driving all of the speakers new speakers. We put that in the spare tire well.

I cut my budget on the amp and speakers; for my taste I would actually like it louder, but then I like it crazy loud at times. I have more money invested in the wiring, components, and labor than the speakers and amp but this will allow for a relatively simple plug-and-play upgrade in the future if I want. 3/4 of the install time was wiring...

Cannot stress enough just how helpful this information is, Stoli! Thanks again for sharing.

-SeventhWard
I'll do what I can to answer any questions. I can't stress enough that for the vast majority of people a simple mono amp and sub upgrade will be enough for most people. If you have the premium setup and can tune down the bass on the oem speakers and let a new sub handle that, I think most people will be quite happy. Once you start pulling panels and replacing the speakers your price/roi goes up exponentially.
 

gsxr1300

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eventually Id like to swap out the speakers also, I already have a JL Audio 5/900 and Stereo Integrity MK IV waiting.
 

SilverSpoon09

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I'll do what I can to answer any questions. I can't stress enough that for the vast majority of people a simple mono amp and sub upgrade will be enough for most people. If you have the premium setup and can tune down the bass on the oem speakers and let a new sub handle that, I think most people will be quite happy. Once you start pulling panels and replacing the speakers your price/roi goes up exponentially.
So you think that speaker replacement might be enough to get the volume up? No need for an extra amp to push the speakers? For me the system is almost good enough I am just looking for a little extra volume while windows down cruising.
 

RevvdMedia

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So you think that speaker replacement might be enough to get the volume up? No need for an extra amp to push the speakers? For me the system is almost good enough I am just looking for a little extra volume while windows down cruising.
Installing new speakers will not necessarily make them louder at the same wattage output.

A speaker's sound output comes down to its sensitivity. I don't know what the sensitivity of the stock speakers are in the GT. Every 3db of sound increase doubles the volume. If the stock speakers in the GT have 92db sensitivity (at 1 watt), a speaker with 95db sensitivity will be twice as loud driven with the same wattage.

I would assume most "low-mid" end car speakers from the factory are not a great efficiency.

Beyond this, the resistance also plays a role. Again, we'd need to know what the stock speakers are.

Does anyone know if the owners manual has this information? I don't have my car yet, so no manual for me haha.
 

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10db of audio increase is twice as loud to the human ear.
 

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Installing new speakers will not necessarily make them louder at the same wattage output.

A speaker's sound output comes down to its sensitivity. I don't know what the sensitivity of the stock speakers are in the GT. Every 3db of sound increase doubles the volume. If the stock speakers in the GT have 92db sensitivity (at 1 watt), a speaker with 95db sensitivity will be twice as loud driven with the same wattage.

I would assume most "low-mid" end car speakers from the factory are not a great efficiency.

Beyond this, the resistance also plays a role. Again, we'd need to know what the stock speakers are.

Does anyone know if the owners manual has this information? I don't have my car yet, so no manual for me haha.
Actually, I think what you're referring to is doubling the power. Doubling power = 3db increase. Doubling volume = 10 db increase.
 

stoli

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I'll do what I can to answer any questions. I can't stress enough that for the vast majority of people a simple mono amp and sub upgrade will be enough for most people. If you have the premium setup and can tune down the bass on the oem speakers and let a new sub handle that, I think most people will be quite happy. Once you start pulling panels and replacing the speakers your price/roi goes up exponentially.
So you think that speaker replacement might be enough to get the volume up? No need for an extra amp to push the speakers? For me the system is almost good enough I am just looking for a little extra volume while windows down cruising.
No, I'm not saying that at all. I don't suspect new speakers alone will provide much volume increase w/out a new amp. However, it isn't something I have tried on this car. My past experience says you'll need a new amp though.

That said, it doesn't hurt to try and a speaker swap is a lot cheaper than new amp and wring. The front door panels come off with two bolts and a tug. ;)
 

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We used a DLOC - digital line out converter that takes the signals coming from the head unit and converts them for the the amp.



Technically yes two pair as that's all the car has. (Pair 1) Tweeters in the A-pillar, mids and woofers in the doors and (Pair 2) coaxials in the rear deck. We didn't mess with the center dash speaker.
Which converter did you use? PAC? Was it plug and play or did you hard wire it? Thanks
 
 




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