Spark Plugs - Please Read

[EcoSwag1990]

You listed the gap 0.027-0.028 but Spark Plugs on your link are 0.044"
Is it ok?

You need to use a gapping tool to gap them to the right width yourself

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[iljalop]

You need to use a gapping tool to gap them to the right width yourself

So this is not Plug&Play solution.
Sorry for that kind of stupid question but - is it hard to break the upper part of a spark plug when adjusting the gap? I have a freaking out phobia that something can fall down to cylinder.

 

[EcoSwag1990]

So this is not Plug&Play solution.
Sorry for that kind of stupid question but - is it hard to break the upper part of a spark plug when adjusting the gap? I have a freaking out phobia that something can fall down to cylinder.

Even for someone who hasn't done it before gapping the plugs will probably take less than 2 mins with the tool. I have those plugs and the prong was really flexible and would be tough to break. It's the ceramic part that you want to be careful not to bang into anything because it will shatter

 

[iljalop]

Even for someone who hasn't done it before gapping the plugs will probably take less than 2 mins with the tool. I have those plugs and the prong was really flexible and would be tough to break. It's the ceramic part that you want to be careful not to bang into anything because it will shatter

I will buy a right tool for that. Thanks man. Will adjust it on Weekend let's see will it fix my problem with the ridiculously shaking engine...

 

[ELPYBOOST]

You listed the gap 0.027-0.028 but Spark Plugs on your link are 0.044"
Is it ok?

You have to gap them yourself. When I got mine they were gaped at 0.034. Then gapped them at 0.027.

 

[Elvis has a Mustang]

 

[ELPYBOOST]

You can do it, all night long! :cheers:

 

[MAPerformance]

As mentioned you have to gap them yourself, the thread has some suggestions on how to gap them. Check page 3.

 

[wmsky33]

You have to gap them yourself. When I got mine they were gaped at 0.034. Then gapped them at 0.027.

This FAQ was pulled from NGK's list of FAQs at http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-spark-plug-faq.cfm#header

Q: What is the maximum I can open or close the gap?

A: NGK doesn't recommend adjusting the spark plug gap < or > .008". The reason for this is the ground electrode and center electrode won't line up properly, hindering spark plug performance.​

So, you should be good.

 

[wmsky33]

I always use anti-seize compound on the threads of new plugs and dielectric grease on the spark plug boots any time I change plugs. Anti-seize makes it so much easier to pull the plugs later, and dielectric grease makes it so much easier to pull the boots off the plugs. It's not that big a deal if you are constantly pulling plugs because then the plugs and boots don't have time to bind, but if you leave the plugs and boots alone for greater than 25000 miles, they can get stuck and be a real bear to get out.

 

[nanotech]

I always use anti-seize compound on the threads of new plugs and dielectric grease on the spark plug boots any time I change plugs. Anti-seize makes it so much easier to pull the plugs later, and dielectric grease makes it so much easier to pull the boots off the plugs. It's not that big a deal if you are constantly pulling plugs because then the plugs and boots don't have time to bind, but if you leave the plugs and boots alone for greater than 25000 miles, they can get stuck and be a real bear to get out.

I also used to put anti-seize on spark plugs, but modern plating has eliminated the need to do this. In fact, there is also a risk of thread damage when using anti-seize, as it's easier to inadvertently over-tighten the plugs.

See NGK's advice here:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

 

[wmsky33]

I also used to put anti-seize on spark plugs, but modern plating has eliminated the need to do this. In fact, there is also a risk of thread damage when using anti-seize, as it's easier to inadvertently over-tighten the plugs.

See NGK's advice here:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

Yes, I should have been more clear. On the initial install of NGK plugs, and probably other brands as well, you don't need anti-seize. However, the trivalent plating on NGK plugs is designed to break away during removal (see this NGK tech bulletin, http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf, which to me means it's not there for any subsequent install. Even NGK says to use anti-seize on spark plugs that don't have a special plating on the threads. I have used anti-seize for over 30 years, ever since I stripped the threads in a spark plug hole because the spark plug threads had bound to threads in the head, and have never had a problem, although I also don't use a torque wrench to install the plugs, and never had a problem with that either. If you do use anti-seize and a torque wrench, I would decrease the torque value by 20%, since that's what the NGK tech bulletin posted by nanotech states is what over-torque values they've seen.

 

[nanotech]

Yes, I should have been more clear. On the initial install of NGK plugs, and probably other brands as well, you don't need anti-seize. However, the trivalent plating on NGK plugs is designed to break away during removal (see this NGK tech bulletin, http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/NGK_TB-0630111antisieze.pdf, which to me means it's not there for any subsequent install. Even NGK says to use anti-seize on spark plugs that don't have a special plating on the threads. I have used anti-seize for over 30 years, ever since I stripped the threads in a spark plug hole because the spark plug threads had bound to threads in the head, and have never had a problem, although I also don't use a torque wrench to install the plugs, and never had a problem with that either. If you do use anti-seize and a torque wrench, I would decrease the torque value by 20%, since that's what the NGK tech bulletin posted by nanotech states is what over-torque values they've seen.

Interesting! I had no idea that the plating on the threads was only effective on the initial installation. Good to know!

 

[therealdannye]

Upgrading the spark plugs is not a bad idea, I have recommended this to all my customers that have more than just an intake. NGK 6510 will serve you well, I'm also a huge fan of Denso ITV22 .

I'm confused... I have no reason to doubt any of you guys when you recommend these plugs, but based on autozone's and amazon's fitments, they aren't supposed to work on a 2015 Mustang Ecoboost.

Out of curiosity, how does one go about declaring these fit for the car when the normal means of checking fitments is suggesting otherwise?

(About to order my ITV22s regardless)

 

[wmsky33]

I'm confused... I have no reason to doubt any of you guys when you recommend these plugs, but based on autozone's and amazon's fitments, they aren't supposed to work on a 2015 Mustang Ecoboost.

Out of curiosity, how does one go about declaring these fit for the car when the normal means of checking fitments is suggesting otherwise?

(About to order my ITV22s regardless)

2 reasons:

First, online spark plug databases suck. You'd think that since the 2015 EB Mustang is so popular and that it's been out for what, a year now, spark plug databases would have added it by now. But no, many brands of spark plugs have not been added. I've noticed this with other cars as well. A car usually has to be around for 2-3 years before the spark plug databases catch up.

Second, because neither the NGK 6510 or the Denso ITV22 is a replacement for the factory plug. When you do a search on any website for plugs for the 2015 EB Mustang, the equivalent of the factory plug would be the NGK 6509 and the Denso ITV20. Both the 6510 and ITV22 are 1 step colder than the factory plug and so won't show up as the right plug for the car.

The guys in this thread know what they're talking about, especially Adam from MAPerformance. If you do any reading on this forum, you will see that MAPerformance doesn't just blindly make mods to the EB Mustang. They test *everything*. Just look at the OP. If Adam says NGK 6510 and Denso ITV22, then they will work.

I personally am using ITV20TT, which is stock heat range, simply because I wanted to try the new Denso TT plugs and they don't yet make them any colder. If they made a Denso ITV22TT, I would use that instead.

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