Solution for clearance issues with Whipple fuel rails?

[Ruiner46]

As long as I've had this gen 2 Whipple kit, I've had clearance issues with the passenger side fuel rail. I didn't notice it for the first year, but I was always chasing my tail with fuel trim issues when the car was hot. It behaved like it would suddenly get a small air leak, but only when hot and I've always wondered if this was the issue. At this point, I doubt Whipple is going to help me, so my question - Is it safe to have a few thousandths machined off of the fuel rail to fix it? Anyone have any other bright ideas?

Here's a pic, the bottom of the supercharger contacts the end of the rail where the rail gets thicker:

Here I'm inserting a 0.003" shim and showing where it stops:

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[Jackson1320]

I don’t think you will have any issues if you have a little machined off

 

[ICU812]

I would Assume if when hot, it is unseating something and allowing An air leak, the old spray flammable fluid near the suspected air leak, will cause a change in rpm.
Might be worth doing this test before pulling the works apart.

 

[Andrew@Lethal]

As long as I've had this gen 2 Whipple kit, I've had clearance issues with the passenger side fuel rail. I didn't notice it for the first year, but I was always chasing my tail with fuel trim issues when the car was hot. It behaved like it would suddenly get a small air leak, but only when hot and I've always wondered if this was the issue. At this point, I doubt Whipple is going to help me, so my question - Is it safe to have a few thousandths machined off of the fuel rail to fix it? Anyone have any other bright ideas?

Here's a pic, the bottom of the supercharger contacts the end of the rail where the rail gets thicker:

Here I'm inserting a 0.003" shim and showing where it stops:

I would send them to a machine shop and have them cut properly for more clearance then have them re-anodized. Or you can probably try out some different fuel rails which are more low profile and buy the appropriate AN fitting adaptor.

 

[Ruiner46]

I would send them to a machine shop and have them cut properly for more clearance then have them re-anodized. Or you can probably try out some different fuel rails which are more low profile and buy the appropriate AN fitting adaptor.

That's basically what I was thinking. Are you aware of any other fuel rails that will fit the older gen Whipples?

 

[Andrew@Lethal]

That's basically what I was thinking. Are you aware of any other fuel rails that will fit the older gen Whipples?

Whipple always made the smallest fuel rails. I'm not aware of any smaller but quite possibly other alternative are out there.

 

[UglyMutt]

You need some clearance, Clarence.

Its just aluminum. Mark where you need some clearance, take a file to it. clean it up with some sand paper. Hit it with a sharpie. anodize is just cosmetic on these types of parts. I'd also check that everting is properly seated when you take it apparat to make sure that's not where your stack up is an issue. Its probably just casting tolerance on the housing or something that wasn't cleaned up after casting. You might want to just knock down that corner of the casting.

Disclaimer: I have no experience with this particular assembly but design stuff like this for a living and clearance is my game.

 

[Ruiner46]

You need some clearance, Clarence.

Its just aluminum. Mark where you need some clearance, take a file to it. clean it up with some sand paper. Hit it with a sharpie. anodize is just cosmetic on these types of parts. I'd also check that everting is properly seated when you take it apparat to make sure that's not where your stack up is an issue. Its probably just casting tolerance on the housing or something that wasn't cleaned up after casting. You might want to just knock down that corner of the casting.

Disclaimer: I have no experience with this particular assembly but design stuff like this for a living and clearance is my game.

Thanks. I guess my main concern is making sure I don't cut away too much. I can't seem to find these rails for sale anywhere anymore, so I don't have spares. I'll take a look at the inside of the rail and make sure it looks like there is some room

 

[Whitedevil95]

What injectors are these rails paired with?

 

[Ruiner46]

What injectors are these rails paired with?

I previously had the 72lb injectors that Whipple provides with the stage 2 kit. I just swapped to ID1050x. Same problem with both. I am also curious if there is enough play to shave down the rail at the mounts and lower the entire rail, but I don't know if that will cause issues with the injectors

 

[Whitedevil95]

I previously had the 72lb injectors that Whipple provides with the stage 2 kit. I just swapped to ID1050x. Same problem with both. I am also curious if there is enough play to shave down the rail at the mounts and lower the entire rail, but I don't know if that will cause issues with the injectors

Ok you have the caps off of the top of the ID Injectors right?

 

[Ruiner46]

Ok you have the caps off of the top of the ID Injectors right?

Yeah, I understand why you're asking. I don't think I would have been able to bolt down the rail with those caps still installed. I haven't even run the ID injectors yet, I had this problem with the old Whipple provided injectors, which I ran for 35k miles.

Here's a pic of the indentation the rail left in the bottom of the whipple head unit:

I'm wondering if it's a bad idea to take some material off of the little lip in the Whipple casting. Maybe I will contact Whipple and get their opinion. Basically removing the black part on the left in this picture and making it even with the shiny part:

 

[NGOT8R]

I think it would be fine to mill some material off of the Whipple casing. It looks like there’s quite a bit that can be removed safely to give you the clearance needed at the rail.

 

[Ruiner46]

I just want to update this thread and say that I have been working with Whipple support. They are working on a solution and it looks like they are going to send me a new gear cover for the supercharger.

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