So I finally hit the Track.....

[BmacIL]

Thanks. So -2.2 front with 0 toe and -1.5 rear with .10 toe? Would that work well for street and track?

Yes, quite well. Can even go up to -1.6-1.7 in the back.

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[PoppinJ]

I'm maxed out with stock rear camber arms at 1.8 and 1.9. This is on a 1 in ish drop.

 

[Cardude99]

It really does. That way you can keep a long-wearing, all-situation tire on the car most of the time, and have nice set of drive-to-the-track, but track only tires.

I prefer the 275/35R19 on my current track wheels, which are 19x9.5 just like my DD wheels. For a 19x10 wheel I would go with the 285/35R19, though the Hankook in the 275/35R19 would be a great option. Another good option that is more autocross-focused but handles heat and wears better than the amazing RE71R is the BFG Rival S 1.5.

Christmas present/Bonus present to me will be 19x11 setup w/ 305/30R19 tires...not settled on RE71R vs Rival 1.5 yet though.

The rivals are significantly cheaper. That's what I would run when I can afford a set

 

[Cardude99]

Never run rear toe out unless you want a drift car. 0.10-0.13 toe in per side. Front toe you want zero. For track use only, slight toe out (-0.05-0.10 or so) may be preferred for quicker on-center initial turn in.

I do a smidge amount of toe in the front. No tire wear issues. Turn in is awesome

 

[PoppinJ]

I had a bad alignment in the rear without knowing it. Crappy job from the techs. Told them exactly what I wanted and they told me they did it.... They lied. I was running about .50 toe in instead of .10 each side. :( Didn't figure it out till my tires were destroyed on the inside edge.

 

[BmacIL]

The rivals are significantly cheaper. That's what I would run when I can afford a set

They drive a lot different, and for equal size, the RE is faster. Rivals have some huge 18" sizes though, which can be quicker overall in the right hands.

 

[Cardude99]

They drive a lot different, and for equal size, the RE is faster. Rivals have some huge 18" sizes though, which can be quicker overall in the right hands.

Yes the re71 is faster but by a small margin. I'm not good/competitive enough to notice or need it so I'll save the money. Considering I run Continentals now, any 200tw tire will be leaps and bounds better than my 300tw conti

 

[BmacIL]

Yes the re71 is faster but by a small margin. I'm not good/competitive enough to notice or need it so I'll save the money. Considering I run Continentals now, any 200tw tire will be leaps and bounds better than my 300tw conti

Indeed.

 

[2015Etrac]

Is it possible to get a standard GT to handle like a GT350 without spending a fortune on upgrades or going with coilovers, etc.? I realize a lot of what makes that car is the engine, transmission, cooling, and brakes...as well as the Magneride which wasn't available on the 2015-17 GT's. Every review of the GT350 on the track, that I've seen, was positive, which is why I've upgraded to the 350R springs, sway bars, strut tower brace, etc. but is it realistic to expect to get anywhere close to the performance of a GT350 Track Pack, or even an R, by just upgrading to their OEM parts where possible? Has anyone driven both a 350 and normal GT? It seems like their power can be nearly matched by adding a GT350 intake manifold, tune, and headers on a Coyote but how about the handling.

 

[JohnD]

I have the Ford Performance FR3 track suspension kit. Fills in a lot of gaps. Spring rates are virtually identical to the GT350R (except progressive so no tooth rattling roughness on the street), custom valved shocks to work with these exact springs and bars, some spherical bearing pieces that the standard GT doesn't have. Best of all it's engineered by the people who designed and built the car. I have it and it works very well, extremely flat in corners, no brake dive, very neutral with no bad habits at all, on the rare occasion the rear gets loose it is very controllable and easily picked up. I don't get the mix and match approach using stuff from various vendors which may or may not play nice together.

 

[BmacIL]

Is it possible to get a standard GT to handle like a GT350 without spending a fortune on upgrades or going with coilovers, etc.? I realize a lot of what makes that car is the engine, transmission, cooling, and brakes...as well as the Magneride which wasn't available on the 2015-17 GT's. Every review of the GT350 on the track, that I've seen, was positive, which is why I've upgraded to the 350R springs, sway bars, strut tower brace, etc. but is it realistic to expect to get anywhere close to the performance of a GT350 Track Pack, or even an R, by just upgrading to their OEM parts where possible? Has anyone driven both a 350 and normal GT? It seems like their power can be nearly matched by adding a GT350 intake manifold, tune, and headers on a Coyote but how about the handling.

Answer: yes, and some.

 

[BmacIL]

I have the Ford Performance FR3 track suspension kit. Fills in a lot of gaps. Spring rates are virtually identical to the GT350R (except progressive so no tooth rattling roughness on the street), custom valved shocks to work with these exact springs and bars, some spherical bearing pieces that the standard GT doesn't have. Best of all it's engineered by the people who designed and built the car. I have it and it works very well, extremely flat in corners, no brake dive, very neutral with no bad habits at all, on the rare occasion the rear gets loose it is very controllable and easily picked up. I don't get the mix and match approach using stuff from various vendors which may or may not play nice together.

If the mix and match approach is also engineered, it works. Just because you like the easy button (that does work well, no one says it doesn't) doesn't make your opinion correct.

 

[Coyote Red]

Still building my pony for track, to date my sig shows the upgrades I've done. I want brake fluid change & driveshaft with new trans fluid as I am at 67,000 miles and did BG 75w 140 recently. I drive on street thru twisty Hill Country for work as a Med. Tech. I drive thru six counties. I also want camber plates,Steeda so I can get more camber and a little font toe. This is a great thread for beginners,Thanks, Coyote Red #customcarconcepts387 on Instagram.

 

[2015Etrac]

For any of you guys that have done the Steeda control arm upgrade with bearings, is it OK to just replace them and leave the factory lateral links? I'm mainly looking into this upgrade since I will need the cooling deflectors anyway, so I figure it's best to just get the Steeda version of the control arms with bearings while I'm at it, however if I can save $100 or so by not getting the lateral links, I'd prefer that. Do the lateral links themselves make enough of a difference that I should spend the extra money or should I be fine with just the control arms?

 

[BmacIL]

For any of you guys that have done the Steeda control arm upgrade with bearings, is it OK to just replace them and leave the factory lateral links? I'm mainly looking into this upgrade since I will need the cooling deflectors anyway, so I figure it's best to just get the Steeda version of the control arms with bearings while I'm at it, however if I can save $100 or so by not getting the lateral links, I'd prefer that. Do the lateral links themselves make enough of a difference that I should spend the extra money or should I be fine with just the control arms?

Extended ball joint lateral links >>> tension links with bearings. Both are good to have.

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