Snow Performance Stage 3 DI Install Notes

Discussion in 'I4 2.3L EcoBoost Engine / Mods: Bolt-ons, Exhaust,' started by Bull Run, Jan 7, 2019.

  1. MakStang

    MakStang Well-Known Member

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  2. OP
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    Bull Run

    Bull Run Well-Known Member

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    The TUNE+ kit came with a TB spacer with two ports (which I kept). I used one of the ports for the boost reference source. The other port can be used for a nozzle if you're not spraying into the charge pipe.

    TB spacer that came with the TUNE+ kit: https://www.full-race.com/store/eco...oboost-throttle-body-spacer-with-boost-ports/

    They also have an adapter for the MAP sensor to add a boost reference source there. I'd gone this route had I known about it, but I already trimmed the charge pipe to accommodate the TB spacer.

    https://www.stage3motorsports.com/T...smart-MAP-Sensor-Boost-Reference-Adapter.html
     
  3. MakStang

    MakStang Well-Known Member

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    @Bull Run thank you. I ended up buying the Torque Solution TB spacer from a friend of mine:

    https://www.unleashedtuning.com/torque-solution-tb-spacer-2015-ford-mustang-ecoboost-black/

    This one also has two ports, so I will use one of them for the boost reference source. I will not use the other port, as I am going to spray directly into the charge pipe.

    The only thing that I am missing (it is not included in the TB spacer kit) is the barbed fitting that has to be fitted on the port that will be used for the boost reference source, where the rubber hose coming from the controller will be connected (in red circle below). Anyone knows where I can find one of those fittings?

    20190323_003233.jpg
     
  4. MakStang

    MakStang Well-Known Member

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    Bull Run

    Bull Run Well-Known Member

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    I got the kit used and it only came with one flimsy plastic barbed fitting that I replace with a brass one that I got from a local auto parts store. I think the threading was 3/8" NTP, but take the vacuum hose and one of the nozzles with you to compare the barb size and threading.
     
  6. OP
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    Bull Run

    Bull Run Well-Known Member

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  7. 5.0yote

    5.0yote AKA Bananana & 3.7Cyclone

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  8. jrock

    jrock The

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  9. ronemca

    ronemca Well-Known Member

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    Yes - I’m sorry - I made an error. The BRA to which I referred was indeed from TurboSmart, and came with my 10# WGA. Sorry for that mix-up! It’s a nice little device; easy to install and allows for future expansion (like...oh...a vac-driven WGA maybe!)
     
  10. OP
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    Bull Run

    Bull Run Well-Known Member

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    Just a quick update on the install:

    1. The pump's still fine being mounted on top of the underbody cover. One afterthought is that I should've used a pair of quick disconnect connections for the power wires going to the pump so I can easily disconnect the pump if I need to remove the cover. I left some slack in the wires so I'll cut them and install new connections the next time I need to remove the cover.

    2. Rerouted passenger size brake ducting's still in place. I'll reroute the drive's side to match the next time I take the bumper cover off.

    3. Zero leaks from the installed fitting on the windshield washer bottle.

    4. Purposely ran the fluid low enough to trigger the failsafe on hard stops. The warning light still works and the boost control solenoid gets disabled as confirmed by a code being stored and boost being limited to ~17 psi.

    5. The default setting injected too much too soon, so I backed off until I started to see a noticeable increase in the knock counts and negative ignition corrections as monitored on the Cobb. Decreased the injection start point a little bit to see how it'll do as the temperature's starting to warm up.
     
  11. OP
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    Bull Run

    Bull Run Well-Known Member

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    I sent the latest datalog to my tuner for his assessment since I installed various minor mods since the last tune update. He stated that I can squeeze a little more performance out of the existing tune if I switched to a larger WMI nozzle size.

    So I ordered four bigger nozzles from ProMeth:
    20190531_165610.jpg

    The nozzle swap was straight forward. I just disconnected the hard pipes from the nozzle holders and unscrewed the nozzles from the intake manifold.
    20190531_170039.jpg
    Took this picture while the nozzles were out to show that the stock intake manifold has plenty of thickness to mount the nozzles.
    20190531_172827.jpg
    A quick test showed that the increased nozzle size allowed for full positive ignition correction (3 degrees max for my tune) even on a hot AZ day with the charge temp of over 120 degrees. Note that the temperature reduction seen under a typical hard acceleration was typically around 20 degrees. There's even a larger drop, as seen on the minimum value section of the Cobb monitors when I lift off the throttle. It's probably due to the high vacuum environment promoting quicker evaporation of leftover water/meth mixture. At least it'll keep the intake manifold nice and cool for any follow up accelerations.
    20190531_184651.jpg

    Since ported nozzles are mounted after the IAT2 sensor (on the intake manifold mounted MAP sensor), I initially added the fifth nozzle option (mounted on the charge pipe) with the ported WMI kit so that the IAT2 sensor can "see" the temp reduction effect of WMI. However, the bulk of the injection still occurs after the sensor so the true charge temp is probably lower than what's shown.

    Since the charge pipe I'm using has two bungs for nozzles, I replaced the single 157 CC nozzle with dual 95 CC nozzles tonight. Aside from injecting a little more mixture, two smaller nozzles should atomize the mixture better than a singer larger nozzle and thus should show even greater temp reduction to the IAT2 sensor in theory.
    20190612_220009.jpg
     
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