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[Netman]

Question. I’m cleaning up my Tacoma pickup to sell. It’s white, so the iron fallout spots are quite visible. I usually use a clay bar to remove them, but the spray on stuff seems like it would be quicker and easier. Do they work as well, or do you still have to go over it afterwards with the clay bar anyway? Thanks.

 

[MAGS1]

Question. I’m cleaning up my Tacoma pickup to sell. It’s white, so the iron fallout spots are quite visible. I usually use a clay bar to remove them, but the spray on stuff seems like it would be quicker and easier. Do they work as well, or do you still have to go over it afterwards with the clay bar anyway? Thanks.

Start with an iron remover, might need a light clay bar to follow up but the iron removers work well

 

[Netman]

I've never used the spray on iron remover, how much would you typically use when doing your average vehicle? I have three vehicles to do, so not sure how much I should get.

Is this the same product that you'd use as a wheel cleaner?

 

[MAGS1]

I've never used the spray on iron remover, how much would you typically use when doing your average vehicle? I have three vehicles to do, so not sure how much I should get.

Is this the same product that you'd use as a wheel cleaner?

Adam’s and a few others make a dedicated iron remover that’s safe for paint. Some of the wheel cleaners are too but just need to read the labels. Spray a decent amount, like you would with a detail spray or drying aid. Let it dwell a few minutes, just make sure it doesn’t dry on the paint. Most of them turn purple on the spots that it’s decontaminating. Then just spray it off with water

 

[Johnny Rockit]

Are we only allowed one or two pics?

 

[Netman]

Adam’s and a few others make a dedicated iron remover that’s safe for paint. Some of the wheel cleaners are too but just need to read the labels. Spray a decent amount, like you would with a detail spray or drying aid. Let it dwell a few minutes, just make sure it doesn’t dry on the paint. Most of them turn purple on the spots that it’s decontaminating. Then just spray it off with water

Thank you sir..

 

[CRS77]

Picked it up from storage and gave it a quick bath.

 

[DFB5.0]

Question. I’m cleaning up my Tacoma pickup to sell. It’s white, so the iron fallout spots are quite visible. I usually use a clay bar to remove them, but the spray on stuff seems like it would be quicker and easier. Do they work as well, or do you still have to go over it afterwards with the clay bar anyway? Thanks.

Iron removers are a valuable tool when dealing with paint contamination, helping remove embedded iron particles safely in a touchless fashion. When followed by a clay bar/towel/mitt, you remove anything not dissolved by the chemical.

I've never used the spray on iron remover, how much would you typically use when doing your average vehicle? I have three vehicles to do, so not sure how much I should get.

Is this the same product that you'd use as a wheel cleaner?

Starting with that last question, some iron removers can be used for wheels and paint, some are wheel only. For example, Carpro IronX, Gyeon Iron and P&S Iron Buster can be used in both roles. Something like Koch Chemie MWC and Sonax Full Effect should be reserved for wheels only.

You can also get combination iron remover/clay lubricants, meaning you can clay and iron decon in one step. I have used Carpro IronX and NV Purify for this in the past.

Purify | Fallout Remover & Clay Lubricant – Nv Car Care USA

There are a few different ways of using iron removers. As mentioned above, you can apply the product and use it to lubricate a clay bar/pad. In this case, you would have washed the car already. This method is ideal for well-maintained vehicles with mild to moderate contamination.

Another method would be to apply the iron remover from dry at the very beginning, prior to rinsing the car. This reduces the dilution of the product and increases the reaction. You would then rinse the car thoroughly after a dwell period, followed by the normal wash process and possibly a clay treatment.

For me, I typically wash and rinse the car as usual. While still wet, I then apply iron remover to the whole vehicle, allowing as long as possible to dwell. I then rinse the car clean, and while still wet, follow up with the clay process using a clay lubricant. I then rinse the car and start the drying process.

A few usage tips / considerations -

- These products are expensive to make, so RRP's reflect this. While some are better than others, they are a much of a muchness in terms of effectiveness. I would say shop around in gallon sizes, P&S Iron Buster is usually one of the better priced options.
P&S Detail Products - Iron Buster | The Rag Company
CARPRO Iron X Lemon Scent (autogeek.net)
GYEON Q2M Iron Remover - 4000 ml (autogeek.net)

- I use about 350ml to 400ml of product for a Mustang sized vehicle.

-Be warned, these products stink to high heaven. Wear gloves.

- Apply in the shade or small sections at a time. Avoid having it dry on the paint. Avoid applying of hot surfaces.

- I tend to avoid applying the product on glass.

- Allow as long as possible for the product do its thing, without letting it dry.

- To increase the effectiveness, use your gloved hands to distribute product across the paint.

If you haven't already, look into getting a clay sponge, mitt or towel. These are much easier and quicker to use than old clay bars.

Ultra Clay Towel | The Rag Company
Ultra Clay Mitt | The Rag Company
Ultra Clay Scrubber | The Rag Company

 

[DFB5.0]

Drive it, wash it............................

After a rinse-less wash using P&S Absolute and Bead Maker.............................

 

[Netman]

DFB5.0 and MAGS1, you are both a wealth of knowledge and these forums are incredibly lucky to have guys like you, that take the time to respond to our questions. Thanks again.

 

[Netman]

Iron removers are a valuable tool when dealing with paint contamination, helping remove embedded iron particles safely in a touchless fashion. When followed by a clay bar/towel/mitt, you remove anything not dissolved by the chemical.



Starting with that last question, some iron removers can be used for wheels and paint, some are wheel only. For example, Carpro IronX, Gyeon Iron and P&S Iron Buster can be used in both roles. Something like Koch Chemie MWC and Sonax Full Effect should be reserved for wheels only.

You can also get combination iron remover/clay lubricants, meaning you can clay and iron decon in one step. I have used Carpro IronX and NV Purify for this in the past.

Purify | Fallout Remover & Clay Lubricant – Nv Car Care USA

There are a few different ways of using iron removers. As mentioned above, you can apply the product and use it to lubricate a clay bar/pad. In this case, you would have washed the car already. This method is ideal for well-maintained vehicles with mild to moderate contamination.

Another method would be to apply the iron remover from dry at the very beginning, prior to rinsing the car. This reduces the dilution of the product and increases the reaction. You would then rinse the car thoroughly after a dwell period, followed by the normal wash process and possibly a clay treatment.

For me, I typically wash and rinse the car as usual. While still wet, I then apply iron remover to the whole vehicle, allowing as long as possible to dwell. I then rinse the car clean, and while still wet, follow up with the clay process using a clay lubricant. I then rinse the car and start the drying process.

A few usage tips / considerations -

- These products are expensive to make, so RRP's reflect this. While some are better than others, they are a much of a muchness in terms of effectiveness. I would say shop around in gallon sizes, P&S Iron Buster is usually one of the better priced options.
P&S Detail Products - Iron Buster | The Rag Company
CARPRO Iron X Lemon Scent (autogeek.net)
GYEON Q2M Iron Remover - 4000 ml (autogeek.net)

- I use about 350ml to 400ml of product for a Mustang sized vehicle.

-Be warned, these products stink to high heaven. Wear gloves.

- Apply in the shade or small sections at a time. Avoid having it dry on the paint. Avoid applying of hot surfaces.

- I tend to avoid applying the product on glass.

- Allow as long as possible for the product do its thing, without letting it dry.

- To increase the effectiveness, use your gloved hands to distribute product across the paint.

If you haven't already, look into getting a clay sponge, mitt or towel. These are much easier and quicker to use than old clay bars.

Ultra Clay Towel | The Rag Company
Ultra Clay Mitt | The Rag Company
Ultra Clay Scrubber | The Rag Company

I'm trying to do up an order for some of these items. What do you recommend to bring life back into the black plastic outside trim pieces.

 

[DFB5.0]

I'm trying to do up an order for some of these items. What do you recommend to bring life back into the black plastic outside trim pieces.

Short term, Koch Chemie Plast Star. Depending on weather conditions/washing, this will give a few weeks of improvement.
Koch-Chemie - Plast Star Silicone-Free | The Rag Company

Long term, Solution Finish. This is a product that gives 12 to 18 months of improvement.
Solution Finish - Trim Restorer | The Rag Company

 

[Les]

Quick wash with Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam, and Koch Chemie S0.02 Spray Sealant. I did paint correction before winter then it was driven from Massachusetts to Maryland for storage! He just drove it back from Maryland and I had to get all the bugs off the front bumper. Very easy because I used the same sealant before the trip. Took less than an hour and a half to get it back in shape!

 

[DFB5.0]

Quick wash with Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam, and Koch Chemie S0.02 Spray Sealant. I did paint correction before winter then it was driven from Massachusetts to Maryland for storage! He just drove it back from Maryland and I had to get all the bugs off the front bumper. Very easy because I used the same sealant before the trip. Took less than an hour and a half to get it back in shape!

How do you like Koch S0.02?

I got given a bottle but haven't used it yet.

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