Shift Knob Question...

[Tacswa]

Just a got basic round shift knob to replace the white one in my Bullitt. I got it from CJ pony parts. My question is, do I or should I use the lock tight that is provided? Curious if it will make it that much harder to remove if/when I decide on swapping out again.

Sponsored

 

[RKRZ]

I'd say no. The instructions that came with the Ford carbon fiber one doesn't mention lock tight.

 

[Tacswa]

I'd say no. The instructions that came with the Ford carbon fiber one doesn't mention lock tight.

I did a test run without lock tight. Shift knob is way to loose and then when you get to a tight point, its upside down and feels like if you go tighter it will crack the inner shift knob threads. Got what I paid for I guess.

 

[poncho@home]

Why did you replace the Bullitt knob? I got one for my non-Bullitt car and I love it!

 

[Tacswa]

Why did you replace the Bullitt knob? I got one for my non-Bullitt car and I love it!

I wanted a red knob. Going with a black/red color scheme

 

[BlueThunder]

Depends if your knob has a pattern on it and it doesn't have a lock-nut underneath. Without a lock-nut, then it's probably better to use a bit of blue Loctite so you get it oriented properly without it being too loose or having to over-tighten it to get it oriented correctly. I've also found that when it gets cold out, I've actually had a shift knob start unscrewing on a 5-6 shift. You'll want to use a very small amount though and it takes a minute with a heat gun and some oomph to get it off again.

 

[Tacswa]

Depends if your knob has a pattern on it and it doesn't have a lock-nut underneath. Without a lock-nut, then it's probably better to use a bit of blue Loctite so you get it oriented properly without it being too loose or having to over-tighten it to get it oriented correctly. I've also found that when it gets cold out, I've actually had a shift knob start unscrewing on a 5-6 shift. You'll want to use a very small amount though and it takes a minute with a heat gun and some oomph to get it off again.

That is what I was concerned about. Can't recall the last time I've used loctite and don't know how strong it actually is.

 

[Elp_jc]

Just make sure it's the blue, or 'medium' one, which is removable even without heat... but takes enough force that it won't come loose by accident. The red one is a biatch to break loose, so don't use that one . The Bullitt ball is awesome, and has the perfect weight. That one doesn't need any loctite/thread-locker. I haven't touched the one on my car, but the Bullitt I test-drove didn't have the ball (was stolen), so I installed a new one dealer gave me. I could have left it with one turn less, but went for an extra one, and barely made it. Ha ha. It wasn't going to go anywhere. Mine is probably one less than what I did, and that's okay. It still has a bit of a gap with the reverse collar, if you look underneath it, but even the one I tightened to the max had a hair still. Curious if the factory goes to the max or not .

 

[BlueThunder]

If you knob almost bottoms out and you don't want to use Loctite, I've also used the heavy-duty faucet washers that you can crank down on. Usually just need to open the hole up a bit. But it helps keep the knob tight.

 

[Nickel]

I wanted a red knob. Going with a black/red color scheme

Like....this?

 

[Nickel]

If you knob almost bottoms out and you don't want to use Loctite, I've also used the heavy-duty faucet washers that you can crank down on. Usually just need to open the hole up a bit. But it helps keep the knob tight.

I balled up pieces of paper towel and stuffed them in there and compressed them until I got the perfect clearance for the reverse lockout. No loctite which means it will screw off when I need it to and paper being somewhat of a vibration damper.

 

[Rapid Red]

I did a test run without lock tight. Shift knob is way to loose and then when you get to a tight point, its upside down and feels like if you go tighter it will crack the inner shift knob threads. Got what I paid for I guess.

Not crazy about the lock-tight thought
You could find a nut, fits the stick, install it. Put the knob on, place the logo as you like. Bring the nut up against the bottom of the knob, so as it jams or locks the knobs position .


Not an uncommon problem, sometimes bolts right on is not bolts right on. Got to futz with it..

 

[GT450]

Blue Loctite won't be difficult to remove if you need to do it, just do a test run without it count the turns the apply the Loctite reconnect the knob to the requisite number of turns so its' in the correct position with the gear pattern and leave overnight, job done. I have a Roush knob and had to remove it to change a broken reverse collar ( I could have probably got a new one under warranty but didn't need bunfight form the service dept ) so I bit the bullet and used a Barton collar which is so much smother and better and wont break into pieces like the original. The loctite broke with a little force and no problem.

 

[Elp_jc]

So the plastic reverse lockout eventually cracks over time, due to heat/age/etc? If a piece of rubber on brake pedals dry and crack in 5 years, I find that plausible. But in order to replace the reverse lockout mechanism, the console has to come out, right? And what else? Just curious. Sounds like a lot more than I want to tackle now. But when the time comes, I'd absolutely get something better, and do it myself. Thank you.
JC

 

[GT450]

It's not difficult you can look it up on youtube. and no the console does not have to come out. the reverse collar can be a problem but many on here probably do not and have not ever had that problem. Personally the replacement is light years ahead of the plastic OE one but that's only my opinion. Cheers

Sponsored